I bought one of the 40 watt Chinese lasers and was able to scrap the crummy Chinese software and hardware key it requires to run the NANO M2 controller by using the Scorchworks K40 Wisperer software. Uses files manipulated or created in Inkscape and saved in its native .svg format for cutting, vector engraving or raster engraving. If you decide to get one; go for the one with the 0 - 30 mA analog meter. The digital shows laser power in percent which is meaningless. Knowing the actual current is more valuable.

 

I found a lot of useful information in and through links in the ScorchWorks web page. The one I ordered had the digital display; so I ended up having to buy a meter and cut a hole. One thing about the digital control is that there had also been some issues with the Laser On/Off button only turning off the display and leaving the laser still on. Very bad since the case did not have any of the safety switches to interrupt the power to the laser if you opened the lid installed. I do know someone who burned a hole in his finger. I have installed these in series with the circuit that senses when the cooling water is not flowing through the tube. Also, with the 0 to 30 mA meter you can regulate the current going to the tube and will find out that you do not need anywhere near 100% to engrave or cut something. Mine will vector engraves with 4mA and cuts 1/8" (3mm) plywood at 10mA. Good luck, have fun and make it a safe man-cave toy!
Roger

 

Here is a sign you can use!

 

hi excuse me what is the long of the belts?

 

I have one of each and they all have their issues.
Laser you will have to deal with smoke or fumes.
Rotary you are going to have to deal with dust and chips.
Neither are good for your eyes or lungs.

Both you will want to have as much room as you can get to be able to set up your work piece.
Laser heads have a optimum focal length and any thing outside that is quickly degraded.
Rotary cutters have their optimum operating parameters.

The challenges keep the brain juices flowing!
Roger

 

The digital panel machines incorporate many electronic improvements over the original analog-meter units.

It's the work of ten minutes to calibrate the digital settings with an actual mA output using a multimeter.

 

If you don't already own a K40, seriously think again.

The cost of a machine at ~$500 plus another ~$500 on 'improvements' and you could have bought a bigger, better machine and saved yourself a lot of grief and compromise.

If you already have a K40, great project.

 

Hi Tim,
I'm about 3/4 of the way into this build, and I see some issues that I'm hoping you could help in solving them.

• The two printed 20 tooth parts that go onto the 5/16" shaft at the rear do not mate to the belt. Both slip like heck on the belt. I have reprinted them several times in the finest and slowest print settings possible, hoping to fix the issue, but it doesn't. I even cut one in the middle of the toothed section to check what the problem is, and the belt only makes good contact through about 90° and not the 180° as needed.

• The second mirror mount sticks way out in front of the head so it won't align correctly. I even slotted the screws openings to where the front screw is well into the rise, yet still, a no go.

If your conversion is working as stated, how did you overcome these issues?

Regards
Bill

 

Giarc

Thanks for your reply.
I'm not worried about using the printed parts or fire as I never leave my K40 is powered up. I'm too far into this to switch to a different build. I managed to solve the 2nd mirror issue, and my only problem was the rear 5/16" shaft connecting the Y-axis's timing for both sides. His 20 toothed printed parts are not correct to accept the belts. I'm looking into a different 5mm to 8mm flexible coupler for the left rear, but the 20 tooth pulley position is making it more difficult due to stepper motor shaft length. The right side would be simple enough by buying an 8mm pulley. My only holdup is that left rear coupler/pulley combo as far as the mechanics are concerned. It appears to be a dollar waiting on a dime scenario.

I'm trying to stick with the complete set of the stock K40 electronics. The next hurdle will be to make sure the stepping is still correct when using the stock M2Nano board and either K40 Whisperer. I have no issues with the stock K40 and K40 Whisperer as its perfect for my use. I have a side business of cutting micro RC sailplanes with my machine. I'm only looking for a larger cut area to load multiple balsa sheets instead of one at a time. The time it takes to load and cut them individually is chewing at my profit far more than need be.

Regards
Bill

 

Do you know what the step angle is for the stock K40 step motors?

I have been looking at possibly replacing the Y-axis stepper motor with one that has an integrated T8 lead screw. I was thinking that could solve the issue with the stock shafts being too short. They have them with a length of 32mm or 100mm for around $25.00 or so.

Regards
Bill

 

Thanks, but I looked at Don's page and my numbers on the steppers are not listed. Is there a way to tell from my numbers because I cannot find any information whatsoever about them. My machine was purchased this past April so perhaps his page is to far dated for my machine.

The stepper in question numbers are printed on the bottom in white ink, not a sticker, and reads as:
17HA512H 22P2
FH1909 27 Smooth

Regards
Bill

 

I d/l it the other day and have played with it, and it is one reason other than filling orders that I haven't torn the K40 down. I only wish there was a little more documentation explaining all the menu features. But I did find out yesterday that, Dave Olsen, the guy behind the software lives in my small desert town. I do believe I need to pick at his brain here in the near future.

If I change the board, I think I might go with the Mini Gerbil, but I'll have to contact them first and explain my situation.

Regards
Bill