LOL, or two 123 blocks one on top of the other!

 

I suppose it's good I stopped and noticed a disassembled anti-backlash block in my bag. The assembly video doesnt show anything about assembling it let alone setting it during the build and it looks like they are using an empty block- I know that cant be right and probably wont be happy if I assemble the rest only to find out I have to take everything apart to redo it. Any help with this? Pictures even?

 

Update- I did find this video. Need to note it in the videos guys...

 

I was pointing out the tension screw and nut are not assembled or referenced in the video.

 

I can 2nd the need to add to the assembly video. I now have to figure out how to add this screw back in!

 

I have not cut several items on my new 1010 have noticed the left side of my bed is lower than the right side. Front left is -.022" and the back is -.035", the front and back right side are level. What is the best way to raise the right side of my X axis, or lower the left? I don't really want to face off that much of my spoiler board because then I can't have a work piece stick past the cutting window. Thanks.

 

It is sitting on a 3/4" plywood board supported on all 4 sides. If the table wasn't flat I would expect apposing corners to be high which would indicate a twisted frame.

 

Eric, plywood flexes and bows. Supporting it only on the outer edges, on a span of, let's say 4', is not enough. So do the aluminum extrusion, BTW.
Having said that, .02" - .035" is so little that you most likely can't level, which is why the flattening of the sacrifice board is done.
Do the surface flattening and than you can sand or hand plane the parts that are to high at the edges down so that you can put the material wherever you want and the cutting surface will be perfect.

 

Thanks, sanding down the parameter sounds much better in the long term vs. trying to add shims.

 

Borrow a technique from the 3D printing side that I do on my 3D printer. Do a Z-axis touch off on the spoilboard in a grid. Pay attention to machine values unless you set work to a known zero. Locate your high spot and do a flycut on the spoil board to bring it down to the low level. This is a normal prep process and should only have to be done once. Plus, I avoid plywood because of its warping capabilities. I suggest resin impregnated MDF as it is more stable.

 

Couple of suggestions for options/mods to the LEAD 1010:
1) Offer the 500mm vertical 20x80 as an option rather than just the 250mm. This will allow for those who use a thicker board surface, especially if embedding t-track for hold down.
2) From the design, it appears that the steppers are driven as X |YY|Z. Paralleled steppers can lose count and result in skew. I would suggest an option of adding another limit switch to be used on the Y-axis so the configuration now becomes X | Y1 | Y2 | Z. There are a couple of version of grbl out there that allow for dual steppers for X and Y axes. The added limit switch will allow for separate homing the Y carriage steppers and cancelling out any usage skew on homing.

 

I thank you for the reply.

I beg to differ on leadscrew tracking. Closed loop control compensates but you have none on open loop and steppers can lose position when run this way. I'll stick to my use of independent shared axes homing as a personal preference.

 

Hello, this is my very first post. I hope I post it in the right place. I bought Lead CNC 1010 and set it up and configure it everything was working fine. but for some reason it looks like Y and Y2 went out of sync and I can't get it to sync. when I bring up the system and hit home they are making load noise and Y2 seems stuck close to home or get to home faster than Y. any help appreciated. thanks

 

that was it. one of the wires for Y went loose. Many thanks Peter.

 

Hello Folks, considering a purchase of a 1010, a couple Q's hopefully someone can chime in on...

1. We'll need to cut slots in aluminum plate. Have folks had success with this? (rigidity, repeatability? yes ofc feed rate matters, etc...)
2. Is it possible to construct the frame/machine to a smaller than full sized footprint? We don't need that much build area for our application.
3. "turnkeyness". By this I mean, all the controllers and machine playing well together. Ofc, it's a kit and needs to be built, but once built, what has been the general experience of folks in terms of getting things up and running, vs spending lots of time "tuning"?
4. Any experience of folks exporting 3D CAD from SolidWorks, Inventor, or the like? Does the stock software provide a workflow to generating the GCODE from a STEP or STL?

We're buying this to allow us to prototype some systems related to a COVID relief effort and want to be able to focus on our project, not the tools!

Much thanks for your collective insights and Wisdom!

 

Hello Folks, one other question for the community...

Is there a STEP or non-sketchup version of the CAD Assembly for the Lead 1010? We'd like to bring it into one of the CAD packages we use, but only see the assembly in SketchUp. Found the parts libraries and the collection of partial assemblies. Has anyone stitched those together into a complete machine?

Much thanks!

 

Pen holder o65mm

 

Hello Folks, another question..

Why does the Z-Axis have a different anti-backlash assy than the other two axes?

 

If one were to go with the larger height, then perhaps one approaches the same concerns? But OK... Just trying to find ways to keep things consistent. I'm rebuilding the entire machine in CAD, since there seems not to be one, and so visiting every component as I go.

Also, FWIW, I found a bug in the CAD for the end-plates/motor mounts. The hole pattern for the motor mount does not precisely match the NEMA pattern, so the shaft is not concentric with the shaft hole on the block, hence the bearings are not concentric. I'm curious if this is a bug in the CAD you guys supplied (I started from the Solidworks version posted, that you guys commissioned) or if it's an actual bug in the design. I see an error of 0.7mm in one axis.

Thanks for the response.

 

Would be nice to have a solid model library like the Solidworks one. Sketchup is a walled garden, and really not the right kinda tool for this kind of machine design! Tho it's certainly one popular option, solid models (at least STEP) would be mighty handy.

When I'm done here, I'll have a complete machine in Inventor which I could export to STEP if you would find it interesting/useful. Also intend to add some tweaks like improving the motor mounts, which seem rather "delicate" in the versions of the designs I've seen. A lot of effort is going into keeping the X-Gantry from flexing, but the motors are fastened by two long thin screws... seems like a prime candidate for twisting of the motor on start/stop.