I would like to use a nema 23 dual shaft stepper with the BlackBox controller. I found one at Automation Technology Model KL23H286-20-8B. I know that I will need to connect the wires correctly for it to be Bipolar Parallel. 8-Wire Bi-polar or Uni polar, 425 oz in. 1.8° /200 Steps Per Rev. 2.8 Amps Current Per Phase ( Bipolar Parallel) 4.17 volts and 6.8mH. Attached is the PDF with the full specifications. I believe it will work, but I want to be sure. Thanks Lee
Quite high inductance, won't be very fast. High inductance motors self-brake because the high inductance causes Back-EMF. Rest of the specs is fine, BlackBox will run it no problem, just be aware that it may be slow
Thanks Peter. I found another stepper with a slightly lower oz-in. It is from the same manufacturer model KL23H2100-35-4B. PDF of full specifications attached. NEMA 23 Frame Shaft 1/4" length: 20.6mm 381 oz In. Hybrid Motor 1.8° /200 Steps Per Rev. 3.5 Amps Current Per Phase 2.55 volt 2.8 mH Inductance 4-wire Bi-polar Is this a better option to the other stepper? Thanks for the help Lee
That one will "feel" a lot better than the first one. Nice low voltage coils, and reasonable inductance
Thanks for the help. I will use the KL23H2100-35-4B stepper motor. I am getting the last parts needed to finish the MiniMill I started last year. I found a good buy on a 1.5 KW Spindle and VFD to use instead of the routers. Thanks again Lee
Ideally you should only jog by software. Spinning a motor by hand while its plugged into a driver can damage the driver (motor acts like a generator)
I was meaning to post a reminder to you to check with the sillyscope the voltage as you asked a few weeks ago but l always forget. Can this be a reminder?
Reminders over the weekend while I check the forum on the phone from home far from the lab with all the tools tend to get forgotten
Thanks for the warning. I knew about that from using my 3D printer. When I do jog by hand I do it slowly to prevent damaging the motor or other sensitive electronics like the driver/controller. It is sometimes easier and quicker to move an axis by hand, especially if I am working on the machine with it powered off for maintenance, repair or an upgrade.
See pic;- every time one of those "teeth" passes a "notch" in the core of the coil you generate a voltage spike (which can actually be quite a high voltage) - are you sure that when you turn a motor by hand it moves at a constantly slow speed? The number of "teeth" on the rotor of a stepper motor would actually be higher than the diagram. Alex.
Thanks Alex. I do understand the issue and I will be careful. I discovered what can happen, with first hand experience on my Ender 5 3D printer. X and Y control the movement of the print head, Z is the pint bed. When installing a bed leveling sensor (BLTouch) I needed to place the printer on the it's back to access the control board, when doing this the print head went from the front right corner to the back right corner very quickly (y axis is dual belts not lead screw driven). I noticed the LCD screen flash when this happened. After finishing the install and checking the printer it appeared that the Extruder stepper motor died. Troubleshooting showed that the stepper motor worked, but the port on the control board was dead. I was actually lucky, I missed a Marlin setting that caused the stepper motor not to work, but not before buying a replacement control board. Thank you again for pointing this out. Hopefully others reading this post will become aware of what issues jogging by hand can cause.
You want specs in this ballpark 2-6v coils 1-3A 1-3mH inductance Bipolar config If you need help, post your motors datasheet
I do not have Nema 17 or 23 My Phlat Printer 3 and my Phlat Printer 1 Has VEXTA , PK 266 - 02A. 2 - Phase 1.8 step . DC 2A .
Thats a 1.4A motor https://catalog.orientalmotor.com/i...ies-2-phase-stepping-motors-legacy-/pk266-02a in bipolar config. BlackBox current should be turned all the way down before connecting these or the motor will overheat. Its high inductance though, at 10mH. Will be quite slow. Might want to consider replacing with an OpenBuilds NEMA23.
Hi there Gary Johnson I have started the conversion of an origonal PhlatPrinter and plan on using the Black Box Controller. Mark Carew told me to connect with you to share info on our mutual project. I am not sure how to send a message direct to you so get in touch with me if you know how to do that. I would enjoy sharing info. Also my email is [email protected] Mark
They don't have a decent datasheet? But I am going to guess that its not going to be a great match: BlackBox likes motors with 3v coils, 1-2mH inductance. In fact, checkout NEMA 23 Stepper Motor - High Torque Series - with carefully configured electrical specs to be a perfect match for BlackBox.
contact the store via Support > New ticket - they have a good idea of which official distributors you can checkout for most regions in the world
I have a similar scenario to the OP. Currently using the NEMA 23 Stepper Motor - High Torque Series but need a brake for use on my Z-axis. I reached out to OB support but they said they could not suggest a vendor for a comparable motor with dual shaft, so here is what I've come up with. Manufacturer Part Number: 24HS39-4204D Motor Type: Bipolar Stepper Step Angle: 1.8deg Holding Torque: 4Nm(566.4oz.in) Rated Current/phase: 4.24A 2.96V coil Phase Resistance: 0.7ohms Inductance: 3mH±20%(1KHz) Insulation Class: B 130°C[266°F] Only concern I see is the current, can I get away with this by simply not "pushing" the machine to it's upper limits?
You can yes.. But if you need a brake, why? Is it a super heavy Z axis? If so. Maybe brake is the wrong solution (and hard to integrate) What's the application These motors will be a little slower on top end speed and possibly on torque as well. If your application already taxes the existing motors such that you consider a brake , the lower performance may be a problem
I only need the brake when torque hold is not being applied, ie; when the system is off. The brake is wired so that it is disengaged anytime the x32 is powered on. Yes, the z-axis is quite heavy, enough so that I get the all well to known axis drop when system is off.
Matt, is the option of a counter weight for the heavy Z axis an option? May be a little fiddley to install but will eliminate your sagging problem.
