Perhaps! But that in comparison to the tankline connections of the gantry to the uprights, and still concerns of twisting there? Certainly, have not done much of a deep analysis so far of the forces. You have a great deal more exp with these designs. These are just high-level observations based on assembling the machine virtually so far!

I'm building it in CAD because I have to mod it to fit through a door, so need the pieces in CAD so I can figure out the new lengths of the members!

 

Thanks, yep started here. Having to add parts and remake all the assemblies since, as was pointed out, this is a "legacy" collection. So far, going well... the entire gantry is "built", just working on frame now.

Peter, are there any solid (NURBS) CAD (ie. STEP or Solidworks) made for the newer components like the thrust bearings and newer 4-post motor plates? I'll add those to this system, swapping out the stock parts once I have the initial assembly. Just saves a bit of time if the parts already exist vs. having to make those. If not parts, are there dim drawings I could work from? Much thanks! (such parts are good for FreeCAD folks, BTW)

Also, Peter, I see the mod you talk about for the 1515 to put the leadscrew in tension. Yes, nice addition worth having (We're going to use this like a low-precision mill, so anything we can do to improve repeatability and accuracy is worth the small bit of extra up-front work).

Thanks again for the pointers!

 

So I am finally ready to flatten our new spoil board configuration.
I would like to leverage our new XYZ probe to set the Z.

How would that work if I use the flattening wizard?
Would I just set the probe somewhere on the spoil board?

I have only ever used probe on the left corner of a workpiece.

Also can I set the amount taken off the spoilboard within the wizard settings?

Thanks in advance!

 

Thanks guys. Very helpful. I am running job now. The wizard set feedrate around 800. I speed it up to 1080. Still seems slow.running a 1 inch flaring bit. What speed's normal for you guys? If I keep turning it up what's the sign I am running to fast? Chatter? Thanks

 

Chatter, missing steps (movements are not quite as far as they were supposed to be - circles or rectangles don't line up when you have gone all the way round) motors stall. If you have any of those indicators you need to drop the feedrate - I won't suggest increasing the router/spindle speed as, with a large bit, your probably struggling to run it slow enough. To be honest, you will probably hear when the machine is struggling if you push it too hard. Other disadvantages of pushing the machine too hard (I scrolled back a bit but couldn't see what machine you have) with our hobby level machines includes tool deflection - the tool, Z axis, and X axis can all be deflected by the forces on the bit leading to the bit being at an angle to where it should be, and you won't get a flat surface anyway.
Alex.

 

Thanks very helpful! So I finished the job as suggested. As I monitoring the job I thought that I smelled a slight hint of burning plastic. I assumed it was something to do with the fibers. On the dust collection boot. I even leaned over the router and could not isolate the cause. This lead 1010 machine runs the DeWalt 611 .
So finished the job all was good.
No about 20 minutes later I went to do a couple test cuts and the routers dead. I plugged it into a couple of power sources. Nothing! It's a couple of years old and lived a hard life in a maker space. Do you think this job might have killed it? Any router cpr tricks would be appreciated!
Thanks

 

Thanks! I failed to mention we had a intermittent issue with the rrouter stopping about three weeks ago. We found the brushes heavily worn(especially on one side) and went ahead and put in a fresh set.

Do you know if there is any kind of thermal switch or it off? Thinking maybe got too hot,?

 

Hummm,. Well it didn't sound like it was straining. We are talking about 2 mm of mdf. I did bump up the feed rate from about 880 to 1080.
I thought it was cutting too slow. Hope I am not the problem. I know the dewalt 611 comes with the machine. If I end up needing a replace it do you guys see any thing that out performs the stock offering? What advantage would a spindle offer!

 

RT0701C by Makita seems to be a head on competitor . Would that fit in the Lead 1010?

 

Yes, the Makita will fit, but it's 65 mm diameter so you might need a sleeve for your router mount.

Alex.

 

Thanks. Does Openbuilds sell a sleeve or is that something you would just make. I guess you would just be wrapping something around the barrel to increase the girth?

 

Couldn't find one in the parts store, but it would be worth checking with them as I think they sell one with the RoutER11.

RoutER11 CNC Kit

I'd recommend that as a replacement for your Dewalt, but they are only selling it as a bundle item with a machine (because demand has been really high) and stock levels are low at the moment (110 V version out of stock)

Alex.

 

Good news, we pulled the brushes out (just replaced the a few weeks back) blew every out with compressed air and it seems to be running again. Of course we may running on borrowed time. But at least time to research more options. Thanks

 

Anytime the brushes are replaced on an electric motor, the commutator or slip rings need to be checked for grooving, edge burning, pitting, uneven shading between bars. A damaged commutator is just like taking a file to brushes and accelerates their wear. The carbon dust has its own set of bad news baggage as well.

I decided against using a router and went with a 1.5 kW / 2 HP water cooled spindle motor on my EDGE build that is almost finished. Far, far less noise with it. Now only if I had a silent vacuum system (I can dream...) Next step is to final mount the electronics and then level the spoilboard.

 

I agree with you on the router. I too opted for the 1.5kw spindle, albite air cooled, and if anything, I regret buying a 1.5kw and not a 800w one.

As for the silent dust extraction. Harbor Freight has a not too expensive system for about $150 or so that is less loud then the shop vacuum or, alternatively, build your own. Search YouTube for it. Matthias Wandle has posted a few videos on the subject.

 

Thanks for the router tips. Since we have it revived I will stay with it for the time being.

I am not sure I fully appreciate the full benefit of the spindle over the router. I get that it is quieter and if 1.5kw is the same as 2 hp then if .75 hp stronger than the Dewalt.

How would that translate into performance.

• Could I feed work faster or
• take deeper passes.
• Perhaps mill harder material?

It seems like flex in the gantry and rail system would be an issue once you reached a certain amount of torque?
Sounds like you guys have looked into it, Thanks in advance for sharing!

 

I built my own extraction system for it. Getting rid of the router and going with the spindle killed much of the noise. The only way the vacuum noise would go away would be to put it outside and that is just not practical. Just have to live with what I was able to accomplish.

 

Spindles typically have less runout than routers, and are designed for longer run times. Less of an issue with wood, but if you want automotive or aircraft level accuracy and tolerances.. than you want a spindle, but the cheap spindles probably would not cut it either. Also, if you plan on milling PCBs with really tight traces, a spindle is a better option. They both have their advantages and disadvantages, decide for yourself.

 

I don't have the exact weight but my spindle is not heavier than the Makita clone I have, which is about the same size as the RoutER11

 

And just to add an option (not the cheapest mind you).
My AMB 1.4kw (the 1400 digital controlled) = 1.8kg

 

I'm using a 1.5kw water cooled spindle on my Lead 1515 (high Z mod) and I like it over my other CNC machine's Makita. The water cooled spindle has two main advantages that I see: it's considerably quieter than a router, and it can be easily controlled through the software as set in the gcode. It's handy to start a GCode programme and the spindle turns on and off automatically, at the right speed. The water cooling was easy to set up, though I had trouble getting the controller to talk to the VFD.