Hi, I‘m having a really hard time tramming my Lead 1010. Where do you do the adjustments? If you adjust at the spindle mount, do you have any tricks on how to move this arrangement in a good way? For me it‘s either stuck or completely loose. I‘d really appreciate if someone who was successful in doing it would quickly describe how to approach this specifically with a lead cnc. I know the general concept but I‘m struggling to apply it to the lead build specifics. Thanks in advance.
No... And I‘m still struggling as everything is connected with multiple fasteners to the extrusions and things are either completely loose or tight enough so things don‘t budge at all... My machine works for cutting contours but nothing beyond that. Not really sure how to proceed. Would be really cool if there was a video on tramming. It‘s a bit of an omission from the otherwise really cool build videos.
No video yet But basically: Level the Y rails so they form a perfectly flat base (no twist, flat plane) Square the Z uprights to the Y rails (so Z is perfectly perpendicular to the flat base) Finally adjust one side of the gantry up or down until the X axis runs perfectly parallel to the flat base plane. Then resurface the spoilboard.
I am also having some trouble tramming my router. My Z axis gantry plate is perpendicular both ways front to back and left to right to the MDF sacrificial board. The X axis throughout it's length is also perpendicular. This leads me to believe that the only thing left to trim is the router mount itself. I tried that by adding some 3M speed tape (to shim it) around the router but that did not do much of a difference (I was only able to add two layers as I've go the 65mm mount and the fit on that is really tight). I've got the poor man tramming device. My highest point is at 12 o'clock. Once I lower it to be as close as possible without rubbing in the MDF board then I do a spin on 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. Almost on all locations I get a lift of about 2.5-3mm. This is telling me that the router is tilted back. I can't do much of adjustment to the router mouth without disassembling the Z axis. Any suggestions?
OpenBuilds doesn't have a 65. So i assume far east? Could be badly milled then, check its surfaces for squareness, or take it to a local machine shop to have it trued up
Bought the machine from Ratrig. Didn't know it's not an Openbuild's part. What you're saying leads me to beleave that everything else with the machine looks OK and I should concentrate on the mount?
As its the one thing you have not checked, i would not rule it out. Our official high-precision mount is 69-72mm and our 65mm RoutER11s ships out with a billet aluminum reduction sleeve.
Dimitrov, start by adding another clamp to the router, as far apart as possible. Shim the CLAMP so that you are square on the Y axis. Use longer screws if needed. Tilt the router a bit, if possible, on the X axis.
I somehow managed to get it relatively square front to back. Left to right also looks descent but while front to back is bately touching, left to right I get a lift up of less than 2mm. It's almost equal on both sides. This makes me think that my machine is hanging left and right which is kind of impossible. The 65mm router bracket was definitely not square to the Z gantry. I shimmed it using some aluminium speed tape and it did the job. Any suggestions regarding that hanging issue?
Check that your C-beam is straight with a good straight edge, after that I would look at the flatness and supports for your spoilboard. Alex.
LOL - if it's mdf the chances of it being flat are probably less than the likelihood of an ice cream surviving in a blast furnace Alex.
Got to a point where I managed to run e full job (after a day full of head banging) of facing the spoil board. From what I've learned so far, the markings on my board are showing me that the router is tilted left. It's a bit strange that at the beginning of the job, for the first 30-40cm of X axis the level difference was barely noticeable and it got really visible at the end of X axis (see pictures). I am planning on running another job, perpendicular to this one to see if I got a front to back tilt. Also my Router11 was smoking after the job finished (around 30 minutes). I really hope that this is normal! It didn't smell like burned electronics, but who knows...
From the picture it looks like a very deep pass for such a big bit? Surfacing bits are just like half-a-mm passes
Could definitely be the reason for the overheating (feedrate and rpm setting parameters considered as well), remember its quite a lot bigger than say a 1/4" bit. But do keep an eye on it next run.
Yes. Just shave 0.5 mm off. It will also cause less deflection in the endmill and you will have over twice as many ( vs. 1.25mm) times that you can resurface it before you need to replace it.
True, true! First timer. Took me a while to get to this point as I was having issues with Fusion 360's 2D Face. It wanted to plunge from the front and I already had the machine zeroed right before each limit switch. So much to learn... Thank you all!
Just wanted to share my either genius approach, or a lucky attempt at tramming and resurfacing my Lead. First, I took out the spindle completely. Good time to clean and check the eccentric nuts. Then I loosen the spindle square mount from the z axis beam. It was a bit hight so any non-squareness gets exaggerated at the bit's tip Installed a 40mm surfacing bit, the largest I could find for my collet Lowered the mounting frame Inserted the spindle into the mounting frame, letting it rest over the mdf bed. Lowered z axis so the black cap on the bottom of the axis beam was just about 1/8 (3mm) or less higher than the collet nut, and the spindle mounting frame was no more than 12mm 1/2" higher than the base of the spindle. Slowly tightened the mounting frame to the beam and spindle frame I didn't have much expectations for my first pass surfacing, but to my surprise, I got great great results surfacing. There are some visible overlap lines, but they are barely noticeable by touch. I hope this helps other people start their tramming process. Start of my surfacing just after my previous steps: Surfacing a Lenga wood blank:
