I have a custom machine using 1605 ball screws, black box and open builds control. I do my work in solidworks or fusion. I cam in fusion or hsm works. I have the ability to do either metric or inch posts. i tend to do the default which is what i designed in (usually inch). I set the $100, 101 at 320 steps/mm and my work is off. I did the wizard for calibration and it was even worse. Can someone give me pointers to get the machine more accurate?
Tell your machine to move as large a distance as reasonable. Measure the actual distance moved. (I use a pointy engraving bit as an indicator and repeat a few times to make sure I'm getting consistent results). Divide the distance you told it to move by the distance it actually moved and multiply your current steps/mm setting by the result. Alex.
The OpenBuildsCONTROL Calibration Wizard allows you to enter longer distances too - easier than calculating by hand
I have a Lead 1010, high torque steppers, end stops, black box and interface.... machine is off moved both x & y axis 100mm and machine moved 125mm in both directions. Can it be calibrated without the wizard? I do not have an internet connection where the machine is located. Thanks, Doreen
That's part of the math. Please reread what needs to be done. Go into your grbl settings. Steps/mm are $100, $101 and $102 Read the grbl wiki. You probably wont and shouldnt do it in 1 setting and I'm constantly having to refer to it, but it will make your life so much easier: Home · gnea/grbl Wiki
It is easy to calibrate without the wizard. As Shawn said, read the grbl wiki and to assist with that is a short video showing the math and how to do it. As Alex said above, use as long of a measuring device has you have available.
CONTROL does not need internet. Download it from software.openbuilds.com, copy to a USB drive, take that to the offline PC and install
and you can read/view the calibration details in the resource at HOWTO Calibrate your CNC Machine for MACH3 or GRBL one important thing, if you are manually calibratiing is to reset GRBL after you change the $100/101/102 numbers. What I do is move back to where I started (gotoZero) before making changes, then reset, then do the move again for the calibration check. By the 3rd move the difference in commanded vs measured move should be detectable only with a magnifying glass (but one move is NOT enough).
As @David the swarfer said - the only tweak I would add is to do a very short jog before taking each measurement - that removes any backlash you might have from the calculation. Alex.
I don't use OB Control,so I don't know for sure, but I wouldn't think so. To find out if you have backlash in X or Y, I use a 10 degree engraving bit as a pointer, jog a short distance in one direction to take up any backlash, make a mark, jog (say) 100 mm, immediately jog back the same distance towards your mark - if the pointer lines up EXACTLY with your mark you don't have any significant backlash. Alex.
You shouldn't have noticable backlash unless something has been built wrong Loose setscrews on shaft couplers, leadnuts not properly tightened to plates, leadscrews not constrained (tension or stop collars) etc
