Hello all, I’m new to this forum however I have had my CNC Mill for sometime now and it has done a lot of work until my drivers passed away and I didn't want to pay the high price of replacement Gecko drivers. About six months ago I got her going again using an Arduino and some cheap drive I found with limited success. I replaced the driver with the Maker Shield, however the issue I have now is the Z axis will drop up to 6mm (did a dry run today) and snap my bits. The last few programs that I have used are Open Builds, CNCjs and now bCNC. I don’t think it is the programs but more the driver card, I had no issue a few years ago before my Gecko drivers passed away. Every thing goes the correct way, homing works as dose the Z probe (not set up with height adjustment for bCNC). I did think at one stage that the spindle cable was interfering with the signal, however today the spindle was turned off. Any ideas? Thanks
Hi open OBControl connect to the controller click the 'grbl settings' tab set '$1 Step idle delay, millisecond' to 255 click the save button at top left
David Thank you for getting back to me so quickly, I'm sure that it is set to 255 ms however I will check tomorrow and also do another dry run using all three programs. David
If the controller setting is not 255, which GUI you use will never make any difference since it is inside the controller. If the problem is in the Gcode, we can help with that if you post a sample file and tell use how you created it.
David I checked and all programs show 255ms, I ran a program using bCNC with no issues this time however using Open Builds it dropped an extra 5mm which would have broken my bit if I was using one. I have attached an excel of part of the G code with the machine running log for the same time. I use Aspire 8.5 with GRBL G code. Thanks David
Dial back your Z max Rate and Z Acceleration to half of current then retest - too high values causes stalls which looks like a drop. If that does not help, and everything is mechanically perfect, replace the controller with a proper controller like the BlackBox from openbuildspartstore.com (see docs.openbuilds.com/blackbox for docs)
That is because the setting is saved inside the controller (inside the Arduino), not in the GUI software, so each GUI just reads it from the controller... I need the entire, original, gcode file, and a screenshot of the drawing in Aspire so I know what the gcode is supposed to create. This 'extra 5mm drop', did it happen in one move, or spread over all of the cut? if in one move, when? start or end of a cut? which cut? once it is cutting too deep, does it pull out of the cut correctly or is the retract now also too low by 5mm? I agree with Peter, change the Z rates and test, seams like Z is getting stuck somewhere and the current (high) speeds will make that worse. If reducing the Z max rate and acceleration provides a cure, then you need to check Z carefully for sticky spots, and also check that the driver is running cool enough and is operating correctly at all times. You said you had 'some cheap driver', and replaced it with a MakerShield - is that this thing? If it is then I strongly suggest that the problem is the Z driver overheating and skipping steps when it shuts down to control the heat. The 8825 chip is simply not enough chip for the Nema23 size stepper motors, it is well suited to the Nema17's on 3D printers which move light loads, but routers are much heavier and need about twice the current from the drivers. I do wish that sellers would include a simple line like "this is for Nema17 motors and is not suitable for driving your CNC router" when they advertise this type of product.
David The drop is a single drop and it happens when it happens, I still have a broken bit sitting in a cutting board waiting for me to fix this issue. As for it retracting not sure as I break the bit and as of late I have stopped the program. The cheaper driver is in my draw of parts, I'm using the Maker Shield, I'm not sure what size motor I have as it was purchased a long time ago and there has been plenty of Whisky passed my lips. Peter I'm looking at getting the xPRO V5 in the future, the Black Box used to be sold by the Maker Store some time ago. I hope to get a chance to have a play Friday, I will post the results. Thanks David
Thankyou set this $11 Junction deviation, millimeters 0.010mm to 0.02mm, which is the default, changing these settings ($11 and $12) from the the defaults has no usefulness. These other values tell us some things..... Code: $100 X-axis steps per millimeter 40.00steps/mm $101 Y-axis steps per millimeter 40.00steps/mm $102 Z-axis steps per millimeter 40.00steps/mm These indicate you have not calibrated, for distances and speeds to be accurate you have to calibrate first. (round numbers never happen in reality (-: ) Code: $110 X-axis maximum rate, mm/min 2000.00mm/min $111 Y-axis maximum rate, mm/min 2000.00mm/min $112 Z-axis maximum rate, mm/min 500.00mm/min probably ok, but after calibrating you can probably tune these higher, esp after upgrading stepper drivers to ones that can actually supply the required current of the motors (assuming Nema23s, you havn't answered that question, among others). Is this 500mm/min for Z the original value or after halving it for testing as we suggested earlier? Code: $120 X-axis acceleration, mm/sec2 100.00mm/sec² $121 Y-axis acceleration, mm/sec2 1000.00mm/sec² $122 Z-axis acceleration, mm/sec2 50.00mm/sec² 3 widely different values will confuse the internal math a bit, or at least make it harder to calculate proper step rates. X and Y should be the same unless the drive mechanisms are wildly different, like belt on X and screw on Y. Z is of course under scrutiny and conservative values are what we want until we identify the issue. Z acceleration will normally be lower than X and Y because it is lifting weight. combine that with dirt under a wheel or in the leadnut and we have a recipe for skipping steps on a lift movement, especially with your current limited drivers. This will appear like a 'drop' but is in fact a 'failure to lift'.
David My understanding WRT step's 100 to 102 lets the motor turn x amount of step's per mm, if this is correct in what I think it is then 40 is 99% correct as I found this to be the best for my machine. I will have to do some digging into my very old email's to see if I can find the information on my motors. 500mm/min for Z is the value that I did sometime ago. With the X and Y they are the same I just typed it wrong. Now for some good news, after my last post I had a look at Jays post and even watch his video. The noise that his motor were making was like mine so I played with the current a bit and ran the program twice with no issue with the Z. However the program started to stop and the only way that I could get it to start was to press pause the play, this work for a bit the no dice. I think now the new issue is my PC or the cable my first I thought it was over heating so I put a desk fan on the board and check the heatsink and they were cool. I ran my program using a 3mm bit to do the clear out then used a bull nose bit to do the tidy up and the machine stopped and would start again, so I did a stupid thing. I reconnected the the machine and tried to start from the last line of the G code thinking the it would continue on, boy was I wrong it just pushed the Z down however I was quick enough to stop the program and save my bit. Lucky for me I was using a spoil board some plywood on top. Thank David