Hey can somone pm me who is good this the programming side of this? I have a cnc pro controller and I have been trying for weeks to get it to work but every time I maualy try to jog it it makes a noize then trips the power supplie

 

What is the limit if any on the type or weight of the router to use. Many examples I've seen on youtube and on this website show a Dremel. Can a heavier router perhaps 1.5hp or 2hp be installed?

another hypothetical question has there been attempts by people to build a CNC and a 3D printer by simply creating enough distance in the Z axis and creating router/extruder adapter mount? (there might be a problem or limits in the design of the OX gantry that could possibly interfere in the 3D build.)

thank you,

 

need more information to really help you photo would be a big plus.
but just a guess motors are wired wrong.
Bob

 

yes you could mount a larger router.
A larger router requires more power to get moving and to stop, so you are talking about larger stepper motors, you might also have to change to lead screws.
A trim router is a good choice plenty of power not so heavy.
Remember you aren't going 60 mph cutting so power of the spindle isn't too much of an issue.
Bob

 

Looking good Chris

Ben

 

Great way to expand and grow the Open Build's Community. It would probably be helpful for some, who might have trouble sourcing 1/4" aluminum plate, to offer aluminum pate large enough to cut all the required plates on the OB Parts Store. I've noticed many of the on-line metal vendors really over price aluminum plate.

Steve

 

This is a really good idea.

Is the OX really capable of cutting such large components out of 6 mm aluminium sheet though?

 

Motors are wired the way it says in the part two Video could you skype me or somthing

 

Absolutely.

Ben

 

Mopar,
If by "smaller" you mean fewer teeth, try this:

18 Tooth http://www.bbman.com/catalog/product/18-3P06-6FA3
19 Tooth http://www.bbman.com/catalog/product/19-3P06-6FA3

FYI, they have a minimum order of $35

 

I'm planning on building an Ox soon to try to make some money on the side with and figured the cost would be around $650, so is there a USB alternative for the driver board that is cheaper than the Spark board currently in the parts list? In the YouTube video is see a grbl gShield was used with an arduino. I already have an arduino and know how to program it etc and i want to keep the cost down... so i kinda want to use the gshield. What is everyone's opinon on it? Is it any good?

 

Hi, all!

I received my (mechanical) kit today (from vsloteurope.com) and could not resist the temptation to make a bit of a start with it. I started with the Z-carriage and soon discovered that I have no eccentric spacers. I could actually get it to work quite well without them (and using normal spacers) so I figured that perhaps this was some new design without eccentrics. Then, when I started with the Y-wheels, I discovered I needed more of those spacers than I have wheels, so when I get to the X-axis, I won't have enough spacers left. Besides that, I do not get the Y to be as tight as I got it with the Z, so I figured I really need eccentrics.

Before I start complaining, I want to make absolutely sure that I am not making a mistake here, so could anyone confirm that there should be eccentric spacers in the kit?

Communication with them is already difficult as is and I don't want to spoil the last bit of credit I have by making some stupid mistake.

Edit: Also: what size screws are used for fastening the ACME block? I have a bag of (shiny metal, not black) 15mm screws but I would expect to require 20mm here, which I do not have....

Edit 2: ... and the bearings don't fit on the threaded rod :\ I can correct this by making the threaded rod a bit thinner at the ends... but do I want that? :\

Edit 3: Good morning, everyone.. Turns out one of the spacers for the nema17 motor is 2mm longer than the other two.... this is getting rather awkward.

 

I also got the kit from vsloteurope and there were eccentric spacers in it and those are definitely required to make the whole thing move nice and easy.

I can't really remember what length they were but you should be able to tell by watching the video.

I don't think this will work because you need to put the rod through the bearing for the upper mount.

As i already said i also bought the kit from vsloteurope but my spacers were all the same. Sadly vsloteurope seems to be a bit sloppy with their orders...my kit was missing some screws, all the drop in tee nuts and i hat to drill all the holes on the plates again because they were too small.

Hope this helps.

 

I have had VERY good experience with the TB6560 4-axis boards available commonly on eBay. Here's an example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Axis-CNC-...515?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4862c0b42b

Cost is about $60 and other than a startup issue (a solder blob) I've had no problems. Add a power supply and box and you're around $100 for a working control system. You'll need a PC with a true parallel printer port and Mach3 to make it play.

You can find many forums that discuss this controller, with mixed reviews and many mods:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/general-cnc-machine-related-electronics/110986-software.html

I'm using it as-is and the proof is in the chips

Neil

 

Hi, Kai,

Thanks for the response. I have made the Z axis, which actually kind of works without the eccentric spacers, but as I have not assembled anything more, I could not say if the set was complete apart for the things I already had discovered. So I compared the parts list in the original build with my stock and found that I have a bag of 8mm and 10mm (where the list says 2 bags of 8mm) screws, but I do not think that is going to be a problem. I also found that I should have 20mm screws (for the ACME block, solved that now with 15mm but already noticed that was not correct). Most blocking remains the lack of eccentrics, though.

You mentioned the drop-in t-nuts, I only have 2 bags of regular t-nuts and that is what is listed in the parts list as well.

BTW: I sanded the threaded rod at the ends as evenly as I could, probably removing only sub-sub-sub-mm of material, and the bearing did fit. So that problem was solved.

Here's a little clip of my Z-axis (without the eccentrics and one less spacer for the motor mounting) :



Controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini running Grbl. G code entered manually through putty. I even tuned it to have the correct distance setting (400 steps per mm).

 

Hey all,

Is there any reason that this would not be a good stepper choice for my ox with intentions of using a tinyg controller (or should I use cnc xpro, I can't see any reason to sway one way or the other)

 

They are good enough for your

 

Thanks Robert, I wanted to make sure nothing stuck out as bad. I've been very confused looking up motors seeing unipolar and bipolar and different amperage ratings and everything.

 

Should work fine for the Ox. I'm using TinyG and very glad I upgraded.

 

Also by upgrading to 270 oz/in on the X and Y, what size Z motor would be ideal for a small size ox w/ a dwp611 size spindle, a larger nema 17 than was spec'd or just go up to a nema 23?

 

With that size router, I would go for Nema 23.

 

Well I thought I had a plan for stepper motors, anyone have any good sources for nema 23 motors here in the states? It seems like everywhere I look they want what the motor costs for shipping.

 

Guys, I am using the CNC xPRO Driver. The build is complete but I am getting no communication to the CNC or the computer. When I open GRBL Controller it says nothing on the ports. When I connect the first time do I have to download something? way confused here.

EDIT: I found that my CNC is on port 10. But GRBL Controller says "No data from Com port after connect. Expecting GRBL version string."

 

Are the port settings correct? GRBL's latest version changed from 9600bps to 115k2. When you connect using e.g. putty, do you get any response? And if you already thought of that, did you close the terminal emulation program (or any other program keeping the port open) before connecting grbl controller?

 

This is a good idea, I thought about it myself at one time. I offer aluminum plates now instead of garolite plates for those who are in the market. I have them laser cut at a friends shop.

 

I've got a simple question, but can't find an answer on the net. I'm running a cnc pro 2 card with grbl .9 installed,
driving it is grbl controller ver 3.4. my question is: how does grbl controller know to use the correct commands, as the $ commands are different for grbl .8 and .9? I ask this because occasionally I get some unexpected results, eg run a program the first time, runs fine, run it again and the router heads off to the other end of the table, almost like it goes from millimeters to inches. Anybody got a clue how all this works together?