I designed an offset plate (some time ago) to mount on the Z axis which allowed the router to reach further into the sides of the spoil board. Never thought about machining the edges because I made it for another task at the time. Picture shown below and drawing available if anyone needs it. It offsets about 16mm - there is a limit to how far you can go, but with a large bit it may get to the outer edge of a spoilboard. Material used was 3/8" MDF which is plenty robust enough. To do the opposite side of the spoilboard, you just spin the plate 180 degreess. .
How does this work? I would think that if you move the center of the router one direction, you gain in that direction, but loose in the other. Or are you just trying to clear to the edge on one side?
Yes, for the edges only. But, as I said, I didn't design it for that purpose, it was purely for allowing me to bore some holes down the left (or right) edge of the spoilboard. My setup is slightly different so there is no "edge" that needs machining in the first place.
Hi Alex, reading on the forum and came across this post. I'm a newbie and I have just surfaced my spoilboard. Is there a wizard or template for creating and engraving a grid for the X/Y axis's in the cam software. Or anywhere? If not, how can I create a grid and generate the gcode to do it..? Sorry, for such a basic question... still learning.. LOL Thanks
Depends what cad/cam software you use, but I confess I just jog back and forth (I set my max speed in my controllers config to about 1000 mm/min) with the bit about 0.2~0.5 mm deep in the spoilboard. Alex.
You would probably have to create tat grid unless someone has done it for that machine and has the DXF or SVG file. Alex's idea of just using a V bit, plunging slightly into the spoil board, then sending it the distance you want for the length is easiest. Then tell the machine to jog over an inch (or cm) and repeat.
Lately, I vacillate between the CA glue/Painter's tape for smaller, quick cuts and on bigger pieces of material...I just use an 18 gauge brad nailer, placing the nails in areas I know will be part of the waste area. I'm a bad man for this, I know. After the carve, I use a painter's 5 in 1 tool to pry the piece up and off the spoilboard. A 5in1 tool is thicker than a putty knife so you have sufficient leverage to pry up with and it has a ramped edge, making it easy to get under the piece. Most all of my material is 3/4" or less in Z thickness and an 1-1/4" 18 Gauge brad nail goes in and comes out cleanly. I've had only minimal damage to the spoilboard doing it this way and one thing's for sure; the piece does not move during the carve.
I am aware of the technology but have never used plastic brads or Brad nailers. I was a Finish Carpenter up until 10 or so years ago and probably could've benefited from them back then, especially on paint grade moulding work. I never fasten through the actual carve anyways - always the waste parts/around the perimeter only.
