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Openbuilds 4x8 cnc

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Sam Keller, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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    I'm not home now but I'm pretty sure my z axis acceleraion is 500, my lead screw length is 290mm. I think that may be the problem.
     
  2. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    I lowered the speed to what you have yours set at, and it still made a noise. It wasn't as loud as it was going slower, but it was still there. It sounds like their is binding where the lead screw goes through the backlash nut. I decided to take some WD-40 and spray on the lead screw and after doing this and running up and down several times, it sounds much better. I don't think you are supposed to have to do this, so there is probably an underlying issue, but I'm not sure what. The backlash nut appears to have an adjustment screw. Could it be it is out of adjustment?

    Thanks!
     
  3. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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    It could be if the screw is in too far it could bend that top thread out if line.
     
  4. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    It was sounding good enough, and I wanted to try and cut something. I've gone from one problem to the next. Now it is up and running and seems to be much stronger with the 48v and rack and pinion, but now I am assuming I am experiencing EMI. The job was about 3/4 through and it just stopped.... said idle at the bottom of CONTROL, but nothing was moving. I clicked pause and then resume and it did resume..... The first time. After that nothing. Clicking pause and resume over and over nothing happens.... I started the job over at 200 percent and it stopped several times with same symptoms....
    I used ethernet wire for my limit switches. I used the twisted pairs to try and prevent noise, but I could have done it wrong. The two wires going to the NC switches. I ran one wire of the twisted pair to one of the contacts of the switch (Green/White) and the other(solid green) to the other contact of the switch. The solid (Green) went to the correlating pin for the limit switch (9, 10, 12) and the other went to ground. I did this to hopefully pick up the same EMI on each wire and neutralize it. However, in addition to this, I may have made a mistake now that I think about it. I also ran another twisted pair (blue/blue white) to ground and to the contact on the switch that went to ground (Green/White). I am thinking now this was a mistake. Those two together could be picking noise and sending it to the ground pin?

    To clarify I have (green/white, blue, and blue/white) all running to ground. I have Solid Green running to the limit switch pin..... This doesn't make sense to me now. This is wrong isn't it?

    Thanks!
     
  5. chuck english

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    Just a correction before someone thinks we have totally lost it. Nicks statement "While making these changes, I increased the z axis amount of travel. I moved up to a 1040mm lead screw from openbuilds." He failed to say that we cut that in half. Acutally we ended up at about 18" Z height.
     
  6. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Limit switch EMI issues cause false "Hard Limits" alarms

    Random pausing is more likely PC side: Windows updates re-enabled USB Suspend maybe? docs:blackbox:install-windows-selective-suspend [OpenBuilds Documentation] or replaced the FTDI driver with some Microsoft generic? docs:blackbox:install-drivers [OpenBuilds Documentation]
    Correct version of CONTROL? OpenBuilds Software - FREE Software for CNC Control: OpenBuilds CONTROL and OpenBuilds CAM (v1.0.317 at the time of this reply)

    Could still be EMI though - see docs:blackbox:faq-emi [OpenBuilds Documentation] (Serial corruption perhaps)
     
  7. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    ok. I have checked and the windows selective suspend was enabled. I just went through and disabled it. I also downloaded the ftid driver from your link. I’m hoping one of these is the issue.

    A couple of notes:
    I only have one limit switch per axis installed. Can I do this? I was not really intending on using them as limit switches, but just wanted them to be able to home the machine when powering up.

    Another issue I was having was if I clicked home all, the axis would begin moving back to the switch and would stop randomly as if the limit switch had been triggered. I assumed this was noise acting as the switch, but I’m hoping this could be solved with the fixes above?

    I added a pull-up 4.7k resistor shown in grbl wiki to the limit switch last night to help, but it did not. I can add the capacitor if need be. Again, mine is slightly different than the diagram as I only have limit switches on one end of each axis.

    I am not getting hard limit errors. It just pauses randomly. But I also don’t have hard limits enabled…

    Thanks!
     
  8. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Yip perfect.

    That is EMI. Get OpenBuilds Xtension Limits with onboard Filtering.
     
  9. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    Ok, I will check them out. As for my z binding, I still don’t think I have solved that problem. The back lash nut that I ordered from openbuilds, is it directional? Is the adjustment screw to prevent the z axis from falling down when the motors are off?

    also, with hard limits disabled, would the limit switch noise cause a job to stop randomly in the middle? As the arduino should not be “looking” for a signal from the limit switches at that time?

    Thanks!
     
  10. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    No that would be way too tight. Its just to adjust out any play on the nut. Play causes backlash, and its name says it all :)

    You atill have wires acting as antennas hooked up yes. The setting set to OFF would prevent hard limits alarms yes, but you can still dump interference into your controller
     
  11. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    is the backlash but directional? Could it be what is causing my issue with z sounding bad?
     
  12. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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    I have the adjusting screw in top. I do not know if makes a difference what direction it is
     
  13. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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    Maybe look into black box user forums for answers to the stopping problem. I'm pretty sure others have the same problem even with other controllers
     
  14. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    It does not make a difference no, wherever future adjustments might be easier would be my personal suggestion
     
  15. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Post a video of the sound please
     
  16. chuck english

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    Z noise viedo
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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    Do you have the spacers between the nut block and the plate?
     
    Peter Van Der Walt likes this.
  18. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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  19. chuck english

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    Very good question Sam. I’ll have to take it apart and make sure I didn’t leave those out when we changed z height.
    Thanks
     
  20. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    Here are a couple updates:
    We took the gantry off and disassembled the z axis lead screw. Everything really looked ok. Upon reassemble, we noticed where the lead screw/motor shaft coupler appeared to have been rubbing on the top of the z axis. I am wondering if the coupler loosened and slid down the motor shaft until it was touching the top of the z axis and was causing the problem? Either way, we moved it up and retightened and it does sound better. I am hoping that solved the issue.

    Also, as for the noise/limit switch problem, we made the adjustments on the pc side that were recommended above and I also added a 100nF capacitors to each limit switch line at the Arduino. As of now, this has solved the issues I was experiencing with the homing stopping prematurely and the jobs randomly stopping while running.

    We pushed the limits yesterday for the first time with 48v and the rack and pinion. We were cutting 1-1/2 pine. I was using a 3/8" straight bit 2 flutes. We continued to move the speed up during the job to 200% to a max speed of about 250 IPM. It finished the job fine. The router and/or the cutting noise was pretty loud and we were expecting something to go wrong, but it never did. I finished the job at that speed. We are not sure how much harder we could push it, but we were pretty pleased with the results.

    Hope all is well!
     
  21. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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    Great news! I'm glad you got it working well. Thanks for the update, I've been wondering...
     
  22. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    I guess I spoke too soon. I tried to cut a part yesterday, and the machine froze up randomly several times. I never was able to get it to finish. I disconnected the limit switches completely from the Arduino and it still continued to freeze up. I don't think I have anything connected to the Arduino that is not necessary to run the router other than I do still have the laser pwm wire connected. Other than that it is basically just the step and direction wires for the steppers that run to the drivers. The arduino is not covered. I am wondering if I need some kind of metal shield over it? I guess I am back to the drawing board chasing the EMI issue again.

    Thanks!
     
  23. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    • Are you running any form of dust extraction? docs:blackbox:faq-emi [OpenBuilds Documentation]
    • Is the Arduino an "arduino" or an "Arduino(tm)" - if its the 5dollarish variety, check if it uses the CH340 USB chip?
    • Long USB cable in use? (Shorter is better)
     
  24. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    No dust extraction used. We manually do it sometimes, but not when it’s been giving us issue.

    yes, cheap arduino ch340 shows in the control drop down menu.

    Long usb, but it’s ran away from other wires as best we can and it’s the same one used with blackbox previously….

    I will order a new arduino. How do you know which are “real”? Rev 3?

    thanks!
     
  25. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
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    Yeah, the CH340 is a great little USB chip for low volume serial data projects, but we do see it choking with Grbl often (just too much data going through it sometimes)

    Long USB cables also tends to cause issues (not just EMI, just plain old signal slewing and degredation through the cables own capacitive/inductive/resistive characteristics) - keep it under 1m. Rather run long motor wires from your controller to the machine, and have the controller close to the controlling computer.

    Best source for genuine Arduinos would be Arduino Official Store | Boards Shields Kits Accessories
     
  26. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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    I use an esp32 board with fluidnc now, it's a 32bit processor instead of 8 bit. When you turn it on the board connects to your wifi and has a host name then in your web browser you connect to the hostname and the webui (controller software) starts. So i control the cnc movements over wifi but i upload the gcode to the sd card in the board so when i run the code, it runs right from the controller so its not going thru a cable or wifi. I can disconnect the computer if i want and let it run. So its basically a standalone controller.
    Anyway, something to consider.
     
  27. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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  28. NickEng

    NickEng Well-Known
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    Ok, I have ordered one. I have another arduino (not sure if real or fake, but it doesn't show as ch340 on the dropdown menu) I have uploaded grbl and my settings to. I may give it a try while a wait and see what happens.

    I am looking into them. However, I am a little confused. Do these run GRBL 1.1? From what I understand, they are capable of controlling 6 axis. I didn't think GRBL could do that?

    Thanks again!
     
  29. gchliu

    gchliu New
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    Hi Sam, I am a newbie there. First, thank you very much for sharing your work. It's very impressive and informative. I would like to take a plunge into the shallow end first by making a 3000mm long single axis guide using C-beam. From the earlier pictures you posted, I see that on the X-axis you had a stationary motor mounted at one end, where you drive the belt. In the later posts, I see that you have switched from belt to steel cog wheel system. By doing so, I believe you have relocated the motor and now mounted on a moving platform.

    Question -
    The platform I wish to move is about 5 lbs (a IR lamp) at very slow speed (0.1m/s) and no jerking motions. My preference is place motor stationary at one end to lessen the weight and unclutter the moving platform. Openbuild suggests that I go with the belt pinon option because the belt will stretch over 3000mm. Lastly, I have a feeling that the steel cog wheels is an overkill for I want to accomplish.

    If you were me, which option would you go with?
    1. Stationary motor with belt
    2. Moving motor with belt (aka Pinon)
    3. Moving motor with steel cogs

    Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.

    Thank you
    George
     
  30. Sam Keller

    Sam Keller Well-Known
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    George,
    If your just moving back and forth on the rail, your option 1 will be fine in my opinion. My machine moved around great with the belts, it was only when the added force of cutting thru something that made the belts stretch and cause problems.
     

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