Was wondering if there is an upgrade kit to adopt the Lead 1515 lead screw tensioning system to the Lead 1010. Specifically the Y axes. If not, it looks like I can order all the parts separately but have a questions, Do I also need new C beam end plates or will the flange bearings fit the existing endplates? I'll also need the longest lead screws and cut them down, I assume the standard length for the 1010 will be too short. Thanks
Yes you do - the thinner plates allow a little more leadscrew stickout - needed to fit the tensioning nut: C-Beam Motor Mount Plate With the thinner plates the 1040mm long leadscrews from a standard 1010 will fit Remember the extra spacers/screws for the motors - people usually forget those - the new plates has 4 screws, the old C-Beam Endmount only had 2
You'll also need the bearings that go with the new plates. Flanged Bearing 688ZZ 8x16x5 (openbuildspartstore.com)
In taking another look at revising the system with the new plates, the flanged washers and the axial bearings it looks to be pretty much a wash lengthwise compared to just reversing the existing end plates and dropping the axial bearings in the bearing recesses. Total length is 1024mm (o/o on the bearings) either way leaving 16mm of total grip length at the ends. The lock nut takes 7mm of that leaving 9mm at the flex coupling end. The only difference being with reusing the existing plates you'll need a shim between the axial bearing and the coupler which means only 8mm worth of grip at the coupling rather than 9mm. If you're concerned about grip length, shave 3 or 4 millimeters off the outside face of one end plate on each of the actuators and that will give you more than sufficient grip at the coupler.
I have done this, but I really wish there was a 1060mm leadscrew so we can properly tension with 2 tension nuts, then have ample room to connect the motor coupling on the end of the screw. I would buy these screws ASAP as I still have some some screw whipping as I cant get enough tension on the screw.
You can't tension it more by using two nuts. One nut does the job just fine. The other end is constrained by the shaft coupler, the nut adds tension. If stock setup cannot tension it properly then you have a bent leadscrew in need of replacing
Tuning a bent lead screw is actually fairly simple. With the gantry at one end, rotate the screw slowly and flex it against the bend and keep rotating and flexing until there is no longer a discernible bend. Takes a fair amount of patience but is not difficult. Depending on the nature of the bend you may also need to reposition the gantry and flex against it.
you can tension correctly, and to a specified amount with a torque wrench, on a nut. otherwise you are are telling me to hand tighten by grabbing a coupler that is only attached with set screws?
To put a screw under tension, it needs to be pulled from both ends. Instead of 2 nuts which works incredibly well, and allows easy tightening with a wrench, you want me to use my hand around a coupler that only connects thru set screws?
Which it is. Coupler end (held by motor) and nut end (turned by the human) No! Not at all! You lock the Motor using the controller (our default profiles sets $1=255 to keep the motors engaged on power up, current setting on the BlackBox is preset from the Factory). You do not touch the coupler end at all. The motor's known slip point effectively prevents overtensioning, while providing the "other end" holding power that you talk about Checkout the video below from aroundf 19min10s onwards for the Tensioning Procedure: It really is that simple under normal circumstances. Again, if it needs more than a light turn of adjustment as shown - well then its the leadscrew thats bent (try correcting bend or replace the screw) - not the tensioning system to blame Take the leadscrew out and roll it over a flat surface: if its bent you'll find it hard to roll it smoothly The Tensioning system just dials out natural flex/sag to prevent whipping - it won't fix a bent leadscrew If you need further assistance, please contact the OpenBuildsPartstore via Support > New Ticket
Followed the video posted above. The lead screws seem tension, motors sound different everything moves smoothly and seems tight, but still have wobble in the screws, the left y screw is the worst of the 3. These are new lead screws btw. Is this normal? Vid attached
That still looks like a bent leadscrew - contact the store you purchased it from. If its new I wonder why its bent - did you maybe forget the spacer under the leadnut which means your leadnut is not inline with the centerline of the leadscrew? Or some other assembly mistake that in turn pulls and bends your leadscrews?
the lead screws came from Openbuilds. They aren't bent, or at least they weren't when I put them in. I rolled them on a flat surface and they seamed to roll Stright. I thought my old ones were bent and after taking them out, they don't seem to be bent either. I have the spacers under the nut blocks. They only seem to do this at the opposite end of the motor.
With the leadscrew removed - sight down the hole, through the leadnut to the other hole and check if there is any misalingment
I'm just not finding anything out of alignment. What about the flexible coupler? could they be bent or drilled Off center? They wobble too. Could the holes in the end plates be off? should the gantry be at one end or the other before tensioning?
