Tramming Mount

Good afternoon.
Has anyone designed and/or manufactured and used their own "after market" spindle/router mount that provides an easier method of tramming the spindle in both axes? (both left/right and front/back).

Thx, rink.

 

Hey, Peter, thank you.

Yes, sir, I do understand the difference between the X/Y axes of motion vs. the alignment of the vertical axis of the router.

Of course, first priority is to ensure the X/Y axes of motion are aligned correctly. And even if those aren’t perfect, but very close, it should be OK if you surface the spoil board to be parallel with those X and Y planes.

But even if those planes are aligned perfectly, the vertical axis of the router could be off, correct? Either front-to-back or side-to-side?

Your message above seems to imply that, if the X/Y axes of motion are aligned correctly, the router will automagically be aligned correctly. Did I understand? There is no slip or play in any of the screw holes or brackets that could affect the router axis independently from X/Y axes of motion?

What am I missing? It’s something simple, isn’t it?

 

Good evening.

On my Lead 1510, my router is out of tram (not precisely vertical). It needs to “lean back” to be vertical. I found this while surfacing the spoilboard with a 1” diameter bit which left uneven passes.

See pics…when I place a framing square on the table and against the gantry, it looks like the gantry is not square to the bed in the front-to-back direction. The square touches the top edge of the upper extrusion but there is a slight gap (about a mm or so) at the bottom edge of the lower extrusion. In other words, the gantry leans slightly forward (toward the front), confirming the results of my surfacing.

I did follow the steps in the tramming guide, linked above, when I built the machine. But I may have referenced off the surface of the table the machine is sitting on since I didn’t have a surfaced spoilboard at that time.

Of course I need to adjust the gantry to lean it back a bit. But how? Obviously, I could begin tearing the gantry apart, but I hate to disassemble it completely, removing motors, etc, if I don’t have to go that far.

Anyone have a “best practice” or “the most straightforward, least complex” way of doing this? I figure I’m not the first one.

Thx, rink.

 

Peter, good morning.

Thanks for the quick response. Yes, you’ve provided that link earlier in this thread on 23 August 2022. As noted in my post, I’ve read it and attempted to follow it. I squared up the gantry as best I could during assembly. But now my gantry needs adjustment to be square per step three of that guide.

As I stated in my post, the question is HOW to accomplish that adjustment. I would like to do so WITHOUT disassembling the entire gantry. But it looks like several of the screws to which I need access are inaccessible without almost complete disassembly.

So I’m asking if anyone else has accomplished this with minimal disassembly of the gantry.

Thx, rink.

 

Sounds like a challenge for designers.

I think at that point in the build, I didn’t have a spoilboard installed to square from. So I think I used my table top.