Got it, thanks for that.

Have another question regarding spindles, currently using the dewalt but would like to upgrade to a spindle, most of the ones I am seeing weigh in about 10lb which is considerably more than the Dewalt, does anyone here have any thoughts/recommendations?

 

Look at 1.5 Kw spindles. 2.2 Kw is nearly 3 Horse power - way overkill for a machine based on aluminium extrusions. I have the RoutER11 - RoutER11 CNC Kit - (about 700 Watt) and machine everything from soft plastic to mild steel.
Alex.

 

Yes, 20mm is a bit much, I always use 6.35mm or 1/4". The only reason it would need to be higher is if you had to clear a clamp or screw head or something.
You could also just move your upper limit switch up if you still have travel left on the Z

MG

 

I agree with Alex on this one. I even think a 1.5Kw spindle is a bit overpowered for these machines. You can buy an 800w water cooled spindle which is more than sufficient for any use. Water cooled is the way to go for quiet operation, it is also needed for long jobs like 3d carvings to prevent overheating. And, it doesn't weigh much more than a Dewalt. You can still use the 1.5Kw VFD unit with this motor.

MG

 

Thanks for all your help,
@Alex Chambers I have also added the ER11 also as it was a quick plug and play option. Works great and having collet options is a great help. Will no doubt end up with water cooled in the future but for now ear plugs are helping.

@Metalguru That setting helped immensely, thank you, now I have more z travel and take on board what you say about the spindles. https://www.amazon.com/Spindle-Kits...indle+milling+motor+110v+800w,tools,86&sr=1-6 added to wish list

I took, thank you, @Moag suggestion and replaced the X axis corner plates with 40mmx120mmx6mm plate that helped the size of the work area and doesn't appear to have adversely effected anything, so a win lol

Not sure where everyone else is mounting limit switches for the Y axis but found mounting them to the frame was reducing the potential travel for the axis so mounted them directly to the gantry plate which is working up to now

 

Another newbie question. I picked up one of these that was mostly built from someone I work with, and am trying to finish it off. It's all operational but I can't for the life of me figure out how to mount a y-limit switch that won't reduce the travel on the y-axis by quite a bit, like nearly 1/2" maybe more. I've found the build video for the regular C-beam but the only one I can find for the XL doesn't really show much. The manual doesn't contain any information at all about them.

My search skills have also failed to find anything useful, so photos of what folks have done or good descriptions would be super appreciated. Thank you

 

I use the small PL05N prox sensors available on Ebay etc. I mount a single sensor in the center of the back of the axis plate pointing down towards the c-beam rail. I then put a single screw and tee nut in the c-beam track at each end, so that the prox sensor picks them up just before it hits the max travel. This way, you only need a single sensor per axis, and they can be used for both homing and limits, and do not reduce travel on the axis.

Wiring them can be a challenge, they are not really compatible with the Arduino, and need at least 10v to operate so you can't power them off the arduino either. See my blog on wiring them up:

Homing and Limit Switches – 3D Tech Works

Below is a typical X axis setup, the sensor is pointing at the back of the X axis c-beam, you can just see the edge of the tee nut on the left side of the sensor. I usually use one of the wheel axle screws to mount the sensor. You have to get creative with brackets and spacers. I use a standard microswitch mounting plate for the prox sensor, it has the same hole spacing as a microswitch so works great.



Below is a typical Y axis setup for a Workbee. The sensor is on the inside of the axis plate, there is a tee nut and set screw in the top track at both ends that the sensor picks up. You will lose 10mm or so of travel on one end the Y axis, because you can't get the tee nut far enough back on the rear of the rail, but X and Z won't lose any travel.



MG

 

Thanks for the response, I have switches so I'll look at an l-bracket, otherwise I see those NPN sensors on Amazon, and I have a blackbox controller for my setup so that should support those sensors according to the documentation. I'd really like to get at least zero position sensors working for homing

 

Thanks to all the help I have limit switches in for X/Y/Z on one side for homing and they seem to be working well. so this machine was built by someone else and I bought it from them so I'm trying to learn as much about it as I can. It seems to me that the Z Axis Carriage or perhaps the X is somewhat loose, I can flex it quite a bit my hand and the bit ends up moving at least a 1/4" when I flex it, this seems bad. I tried to snug this up with the eccentrics on top and bottom of the X-Axis beam, and it seems a bit better but still has a fair amount of flex. Is there something else I should be looking at?

 

Don't use the eccentrics to tighten up a loose gantry. Adjust the eccentrics (with the motors powered on) until you can just turn a wheel with your finger. Any tighter and the wheels will wear very rapidly.
Without standing next to the machine it's difficult to say what might need adjusting, but see if you can see what is moving when you press on the bit.
Alex.

 

Hmm okay, thanks let me try that, the rail that the x-axis moves along is tight to the uprights, and when I move the carriage it seems to shift on the wheels, which is what led me to looking at the eccentrics.

 

Could be the Z axis wheels as well. Wheels are difficult to adjust, as Alex says adjust them until you can still turn the wheel with your fingers. If you can't turn it it's too tight, if it spins freely its too loose. Both X and Z wheels affect the play at the router bit. If play is only up and down and not sideways, the lead screw nut or stop collars may be loose.

MG

 

If you have adjusted the eccentrics as I said, and the movement is still in the wheels it could be that the bearings in the wheels and/or the screws holding them to the gantry plate are worn. Afraid the only way to tell is to dismantle one that seems to move a lot.
Had the machine been used a lot by the previous owner?
Alex.

 

You can get a read on bearing condition In the wheels by loosening the eccentrics right off and spinning the wheel. If the bearing makes noise, has side to side play, or feels crunchy, it needs to be replaced.

Also check the Y axis wheels for play. The whole Y carriage may be moving. Grab the router and move it up and down and sideways, it should be obvious which axis has excessive play.

MG

 

Thank you, I think you mean Z, not Y, the Y axis moves the table underneath, I'll check that. The previous owner had assembled it and used it "About 12 times" and then it sat for a few years before he decided to sell it.

 

No, derp, I forgot this was the CBXL. I was thinking of a moving gantry machine like the workbee.

If you have any play by moving the router, it MUST be in X or Z. Also check the lead screws and lead nuts on X. If a lead screw lock collar on one end loosens up, the whole X/Z carriage will move left to right as you apply force. This is a very common problem, nothing to do with the wheels. You can most easily see this by watching the flex coupling on the motor while pushing the carriage left and right, it should not show any visible movement. Same with Z, but that will be up and down motion.

Another good way to troubleshoot is to carve a large circle into a piece of wood. If there are discontinuities at top and bottom cardinal points of the circle, you have backlash in the Y axis, if there are discontinuities on the left and right cardinal points, you have backlash in the X axis. When carving a circle, these are the points where one axis direction reverses, if there is play in the lead screw it will show a jog at this point. Unfortunately, you can't check Z this way.

MG

 

I had a sketchup list of step files for this machine that I downloaded from the openbuilds site. Now I can't find either lol. I lost the folder on an older comp and am probably missing something obvious but can't find the drgs on the site either. Any help appreciated, please and thank you

 

Thank you