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High Z Mod / LEAD 1515 Advice

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Steven Dextraze, Sep 13, 2022.

  1. Steven Dextraze

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    Hi Folks. First time poster here. Just received my LEAD 1515 on Saturday, hoping to begin assembly soon. I was just wondering about the high Z Mod and thinking maybe I should install it now, during the initial build. I wouldn’t say it is a necessity for me, but the additional Z travel might come in handy in the future for some foam carving and some really think butcher block engraving / inlay.
    My main question is this - will I be sacrificing any rigidity of the LEAD 1515 by installing the high Z mod?
    Should I wait and only install the high Z mod if / when I actually need it??

    All my previous experience with with MUCH smaller machines [Genmitsu 3018, 3040].

    Any constructive advice is appreciated

    Thanks!
     
  2. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Builder Resident Builder

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    It sure saves a bit of work to install it from the beginning, in particular allows you to tram it up perfectly from the beginning: Tramming: A generic guideline

    It will be slighly less rigid, depending on the Z axis leverage - but not enough to worry about if you need the extra height at some point.
     
  3. Steven Dextraze

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    Thanks for the quick reply Peter.
    Anyone else viewing this thread with LEAD 1515 and High Z - could you offer an opinion or advice, pros / cons??
    Thanks.
     
  4. Albert64

    Albert64 Well-Known
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    I think it is a good idea to complete the initial build with the High Z modification. I took this path - the pros - increases ones options for working with thicker materials. For example, a future project will be engraving a 3d relief into 4 inch thick material and most recently - I lowered the Z axis to cut out a brass bezel and numbers for my 68 Camaro.
    I have not run into any cons as of yet.
    Build advice - I built mine alone - therefore one needs to plan ahead when assembling the X axis to the vertical supports that are attached to the Y axis. Also, placement of the unit - fixed or mobile. I went the mobile route where I ordered the large 72 inch square table that openbuilds offers - this provided a good work surface to assemble this unit. Another tip - run additional bonding wire with the initial wire runs for each axis and stepper motors - helps to make the bonding between all moving parts an easier process.
    I relocated the black box and power supply below the work table near the forward right side - which will require a longer stepper motor wire for the unit located on the aft left end of machine.
    If you would like images - I would be happy to share.
    Let me know if you have any questions.
    Regards
     
    Giarc and Peter Van Der Walt like this.
  5. Steven Dextraze

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    Thanks for the very detailed response Albert64!
    I do have the High Z mad parts on order now and do plan to install during the initial build. That build might not happen until maybe mid October as I am going in for a major surgery next week and will be limited to lifting only 5-10 pounds for a while thereafter. Luckily my nephew will be helping me with the build, he’s only 35 years old and in great health, so he’ll be able do all the heavy lifting. I also have a small hoist in the garage [where the Lead 1515 will reside] which may come in handy during the build.
    I do plan to use 18/4 shielded wire for the motors and 18/3 shielded wire for the limit switches. I deal with EMC / electrical noise issues a lot in my day job, so I’ll do my best to mitigate that during the build. The shielded wire includes a bare, stranded drain wire that I plan to fasten to the motors / frame. Have you had any EMC / electrical noise issues? I like the idea of moving the black box and power supply up toward the front of the machine, I might do that as well.
    I didn’t spring for the OpenBuuilds table. I’m planning a 6’ by 6’ torsion table top build [hopefully will have that built before surgery]. That table will sit on a Bora Centipede stand [Centipede Workbenches | Extendable Workstands | Bora Tool ].
    I’m also planning to upgrade to a spindle at some point mainly to reduce noise a bit. I have access to VFDs at my day job, and a 220V service in the garage so I’ll just need to source the appropriate spindle motor [probably no larger than a 1.5 kW] and the appropriate mount.

    Lastly - ‘68 Camaro - arguably the best year - nice! hope you’re enjoying it! I have a ‘73 Corvette coupe L-82 [250 Hp] with the close-ratio 4-speed. The ‘73 still has the chrome rear bumpers, but the polyurethane nose. It’s quick, not fast but a lot of fun, especially on these back roads in my area.

    Thanks again Albert64!
     
  6. Albert64

    Albert64 Well-Known
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    I love early 70's and mid 60's era Corvettes - not sure why I have not added one to my garage. I have owned this Camaro for 44 years.

    To keep on topic of CNC's - I use my CNC to make custom grilles for my Camaro. I would use 0.25 inch hardboard and paint it black for prototyping. I have the aluminum plate to mill once I decide on a design - I think I have about 19 iterations. My goal is to have a couple options that I can use to fit my mood. I have attached one for reference. I think this is iteration 17 . . .
     

    Attached Files:

    Giarc likes this.
  7. Steven Dextraze

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    That grill looks great! How thick is the aluminum - 1/8…3/16? Do you just use an end mill?
     
  8. Albert64

    Albert64 Well-Known
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    The aluminum plate I have is 0.250" thick - T6-7075. I am not sure if I will use my CNC to cut - just found a small shop,(Artisan Industries), with a laser cutter in my area in the mountains.
    I planned to use the largest end mill to meet the smallest radius on my design. Not sure how long this will take at 0.020 depth of cut per pass and the number of machining operations for the final design.
     

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