A guy posted a lathe here awhile back and had written a post processor for vectric v carve. He has removed it since then, but I downloaded the post processor back then.

I followed a vectric tutorial for using stl files and wrapping. It is actually really quick and easy to do. The software was well worth the money.

 

I apologize for the late reply.

I have to advise you, I am not an engineer nor a programmer. I am more of a reverse-engineer with and education from YouTube University and OpenBuilds University.

As for recreating a lathe within the time period, that would be tough since I do not see a rotary axis in there unless I missed it. With what you have, I would make a simple xyz CNC build for a spindle, pen plotter or laser engraver.

 

OOPS! Measure twice order once. I was so excited to put this messy machine into an enclosure because dust collection is not as easy as the CNC router that I pulled the trigger and ordered the 510size. Everything would fit fine right... I forgot that to get the full cutting length out of the machine the head and tail stock will be outside the perimeter of the 510 enclosure.

I did not think about it until I unboxed all the components yesterday after work. By the way, it was packaged beautifully. But all my packages from OpenBuilds have been. Anyways, I believe I have a plan that will work because luckily I ordered a couple of extra lengths of 20x20 vslot.

 

Now to move to some larger stock! Hopefully now I will not have to worry about the collet hitting the parts on deeper cuts. This was more of an issue with the 1/8 inch endmill.

 

It just dawned on me today, as I was trying to figure out how to carve out the hole for the drink can in a wooden stein like one of these (or deep wooden boxes)


that with just the addition of a Cbeam linear actuator and motor I can swap the plug from the rotary axis over and I have a Cbeam CNC with a very high Z! So, I just ordered one. This will also make it so I still have normal CNC capabilities when I break down my other one for the modifications I want to do.

I also have a 200mm long, 8mm diameter endmill on the way so I can reach down deep enough since a 12 oz drink can is about 123mm in length. There sure is not a lot of selection in that length.

 

I needed a place to store the old (circa 2011) Windows 7 laptop. All unnecessary software was removed. It only functions as the CNC controller. I was never able to get OpenBuilds Control to function on it so I reinstalled Estlcam. I drew up a quick computer tray that would mount onto and old TV swing arm mount. I have had this mount laying around for about 10+ years. It finally found a purpose.

This mount was fastened to the side of the Enclosure wall with a large reinforcement "plate" made of HDPE on the inside of the enclosure wall. The tray was made form a "just barely large enough" plywood scrap. It was 3/4" thick so I did some cutouts to reduce weight and to add ventilation for the laptop.


The hole for the locknut was cut so the nut would be a press fit...with a hammer.

Perfect fit when stowed

Painted black to match the cabinet and extrusions.


And, since I am using Estlcam again, I added the Xbox controller for jogging. I printed a mount in my favorite filament color, Fire Engine Red. I also printed all the channel covers and wire clips in this filament.

 

I am out of town for work right now, but I will message you when i get a chance to look at the file for the plate.

 

Here Is how I do everything. The post processor is linked below. I hope this helps you, and hopefully others as well.

Disclaimer: IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO USE THE METRIC SYSTEM, NOTHING BELOW THIS STATEMENT WILL HELP YOU. Or you can edit/write your own postprocessor.

If you have no issue with the metric system, then you will find, once you try this out a few times, how super easy it is to do this. For those that may find the metric system conversion difficult, Google is your friend. Also, Most 3D models on Thingiverse and elsewhere are metric.



So for rotary carving, I open a new job and select a piece of work stock that the 3D model will fit inside. I always zero on the "cylinder axis".


After clicking OK on the bottom left, I open the model import function and select "Import Component/3D model."



I choose from my files which one I want to carve and import it. I then make sure that it fits inside my work stock piece I chose for the carving. You also may have to adjust the orientation of the model to align the longest portion of the model down the center of rotation. Also, you can select "scale model to fit material."



Then I split the screen so I can see both 3D and 2D view. I open the 3D tabs from the "clipart" side tab. These are the tabs you use for holding the work while cutting it out so it doesn't come loose from the work stock. I use 3D pyramid tabs and you will see why.



I drag the 3D pyramid tab (Pyramid_0.5) tab over, and rotate it 90 degrees then stretch it out at least the height of the 2D drawing. I put one on both sides. You can see they now show up in "space" on each side of the 3D view
.


Now I size them how I want so that it looks like a cone is going into the ends of the model. You want it thick enough they won't break. Now there is less to cut for the "waste" portions at the end and you have a strong tab.


Now open the toolpaths tab:



Choose 3D roughing:


Choose your endmill size from your database. Choose what you want cut. I usually choose material boundary to clear plenty of room for the collet if I am doing a larger model and my finishing endmill is not very long. I usually choose 3D raster but I change it to 90 degrees. Then I "Calculate" the tool path.

Below is the resulting screen for the 3D roughing. You can "Reset Preview" and then click "Preview Selected Toolpaths" and it will show it cutting the roughing tool path if you so desire.



I then choose the finishing tool path. As with roughing, I again select the tool (3mm ballnose), the part of the model I want cut, and the rastering angle. For finishing I go with either offset, or a 0 degree rastering. For ease of instructions I am showing it this way. Once you get more confident you can just select certain parts of the model to finish with different tools by drawing vectors around those areas.


Then click on "calculate" to generate that finishing tool path.



After you have your tool paths, select the post processor you want to use and "save tool paths." I use the Rotary Demon toolpath that can be found here: ROTARY DEMON CNC It is only in millimeters. So again, if you -- for some reason -- absolutely do not want to use the metric system, then you will have to write your own.


If you get more adventurous and do not want to finish cut unnecessary parts of the tabs, draw a vector (red dotted line made with the "Drawing" tools) around the area you want to cut and the choose the "Selected Vector(s)" for your "Machining Limit Boundary."



Then you can preview it and see that you did not waste time finishing much that is just getting cut off anyway. Notice only a small amount of the tab has been finished. I usually try to get this to a little over the endmill diameter of the finishing tool.

 

Although not a rotary video, I found this one helpful.

 

There are only 3 axis so I use the Y axis as my rotary axis. It made the most sense to me for this build since it rotates toward and away from me. The post processor I use basically uses coverst steps/mm to steps/degree. In this short video, I show how I calculated and calibrated it. Surprisingly, I did not have to change anything when calibrating. My values were spot on. My rotary has a 6:1 reduction. Most of the belted Chinese made rotaries come with the 6:1 reduction.




Recently, I added a Y table to it which can easily be put on and taken off so I would have a back-up CNC router. It also has a lot more Z clearance for doing 3D caves. Y table for LEAD Lathe - essentially a High Z Cbeam XL

 

Yes I can help you out. I used the post processor at this link. It was made for a grbl based rotary built with openbuilds components. Rotary Demon Training

 

I am out of town so not near my computer. I can give you other tips when I get back later this week.

 

I should also mention that this post processor is for importing 3D models into your work stock piece. So, if you are designing your own decorative columns, you should save the model as an .stl file. If designing in Vectric, I would figure out how to make the wrapping toolpath work.

 

I show how I calibrate the Y in this video. I was surprised how accurate the rotary was. I did not have to make any changes rom the original "math". Try my Y steps/mm first, and if it is off a bit, then do what I did with a cylindrical object.

The Y was 26.667 steps/mm rounded to 3 places. So, $101=26.667 in the grbl settings, or 26.6666666667 if you want to type that in.

 

I love the guide rail idea. I also bought a laser for mine, but I got distracted by a great little build originally made by David Bunch (Dedicated Compact Rotary Axis Laser Engraver) and used the laser for my rendition of that: Dedicated Rotary Laser Made from Scrap and Spares.