So I didn’t order a mounting plate for the z axis because I didn’t think I needed one (I was going to reuse my existing one). However, my current one doesn’t fit the bolt pattern of my 65mm CNC spindle mount for the Makita. So I did what any respectable CNC owner would do, I designed and made my own. I decided to try out the Maker Store DLC coated 1 Flute 3.1mm end mill on this, and it’s a beast! It leaves a nice surface finish too. I do need to drill and tap the 4x M6 holes.
This mount plate came out really nice, I’m definitely getting better at making aluminum parts. And I collected my Makita router this morning, it’s been used twice! The tradie I bought it from got the cordless version as he needed the flexibility to work without mains power.
My piece of 15mm 5083 arrived today, and and it's straight onto the CNC to be turned into mounts for the new Z-Axis.
Nooooooooo! Stupid cheap Chinese spindle died with 2mm of milling to go! Looks like I need to visit the hardware store tomorrow for skinny chisel that’ll fit into a 3.1mm wide channel.
I realised that I can just drill a stack of holes and then dremel the rest out. It’s a good my other parts for this upgrade are finished. In the meantime, I finished off my design for a 3D printed Relay and Power box for the Makita - It came out quite well, I think. The level lock terminal on the outside is for the relay to connect to my MKS DLC32 Spindle control. It’ll just be on off and should work well. For now, I’m just going to use the Dial on the Makita for speed control, however I might look into adding an RPM read-out to it, so I know what it’s set to.
Turns out it wasn't the spindle that died, it was the cheap Chinese 110vDC PSU. I might try to repair it, but I'm not sure I can be bothered atm (my new Z-axis is supposed to arrive today). Anyway, thankfully, I was able to rescue my parts using my drill press and Dremel. Then it was just a matter of grinding off all the excess material with my bench grinder and wire wheel. Thankfully none of the surfaces that needed grinding down are required to be dimensionally accurate.
Hooray, my new Z-axis just arrived (soo sexy!). I mounted some MDF on the brick wall behind my gear so I could mount the relay box and also move the Controller off the machine too. Now I just need to find some time to perform the upgrade!
I started work on the rebuild tonight, first the electronics got relocated to the wall and then I tore down the old z axis. I ran out of time to get any further than installing one of the z axis mounts - it does look really good, but I’m biased.
I spent half the morning avoiding work in my garage. Made some good progress on the rebuild. My relay works perfectly too and boy does the Makita spin fast, I turned it up to it's max 30k rpm and wow! It's so well-balanced too, just no vibration at all. The new Z-axis is really rigid, if I try to flex it, it moves the entire machine and bench.
My Cable chain arrived today and it's really nice! It's the type with the flaps that open up to run cabling through. So I whipped up a mount in fusion 360 and it worked first go! I really should have started using cable chains ages ago, it really improves cable management! I do need to lengthen my Z stepper and end stop wiring - but I'll do that later. EDIT: Left over Cable chain makes for great cable trays - I just drilled holes in them and mounted them to useful locations. I also replaced the solid compression coupler with a flexible disc style coupler, seeing as the Z axis uses a captive ball screw.
I recently designed a new dust shoe system based on the ideas Marius used for his system. It has the advantage of not moving up and down with the spindle as it’s fixed to the Z-axis mount. So here’s my version - the side mounts will move up and down in the side of the 2080 and be fixed by a screw. The Shoe itself will attach magnetically to the sliding rails via 8 5mm neodymium magnets on each side. The sliding rails will be 3D printed and the dust shoe will be CNC routed from 10mm thick, clear, acrylic. I printed out my dust shoe design last night, and it turned out great first go. I had just enough bristle left for it and all I need to do is print out some knobs for the adjustment screws and trim the bristle brush down by about 20mm. My acrylic sheet should arrive today, so I'll be able to make the clear insert this weekend.
I made a minor tweak to the sliding arms so they are easier to install and use - and I've now published my design: Printables My cad file is included for remixing. Edit: I found some issues with the mounting arms in testing today that I need to find solutions for.
Ok, I think I have the dust shoe sorted. It’s not as effective at sucking up the dust as those on my previous spindle, but it still works well enough. Oh and I kinda wrecked my bristle brush trying to shorten it with my angle grinder. so that won’t have helped. The other factor is the Makita blows directly down into the work surface to cool itself, so this means you prolly need a bigger shop vac than mine.
This Makita router is a beast! It just mows through acrylic @ 2,000mm/m, ~25k rpm and 1mm DoC. I must make something out of aluminium to try next. The Clear sweeper insert came out really nicely, but this bristle insert is trashed (more holes than swiss cheese). I've got a new one coming tomorrow, which will hopefully help improve dust collection.
I really like the concept of the fixed dust shoe, but I decided I prefer my style of system from my previous spindle, where it sucks up the debris directly above the end-mill. I also found that the cooling air from the Makita reduced the effectiveness of my dust extraction. So I went looking for something better - and I found a model I really liked, so I remixed it for my setup. Printables
This turned out pretty well I think: I’m waiting for some 12mm neodymium magnets before I can test it properly. Honey, Just putting my hand under it while the vacuum is on was quite impressive, it think it’ll work really well.
Nice, I’ll prolly switch back to my fixed height version for milling aluminum. It’s pretty easy to switch between them. I improved the arms on mine to make them a bit stiffer and easier to print. I do need to trim the bristles tho as they are too long.
Would you mind sharing the STEP files for the mounts and stuff you made for the Y axis/bed mounts, to fasten the rail carriages, and ballscrew nuts/housings, to the bed? Im doing the same thing your doing.. in fact, your files i found on printables for the X axis mgn15 rail mounts really helped me out..... oh yea, did you have any problems getting the leadscrew to line up on the back of the X-Z carriage, when you used those mounts? the width of the mounts, and because of the distance between my 2x 2020 extrusions, i couldnt get the anti-backlash nut housing to slide far enough down to line up with the leadscrew, without it bottoming out on the bottom mgn rail carriage mount.. that, and the mounts are too thick by a mm or 2, it makes the leadscrew sit back in the nut housing, its not center in the first hole to line up wth the anti-backlash nut.. dont worry about changing anything, i was just curious if you had ran into this issue... ive already fixed it.. and im probably going to get that ballscrew and linear rail X-Z carriage that you replaced your carriage with also.. my plan is to model the gantry end pieces, and have those cut in 12.5mm steel plate.. model the very front and very back baklite pieces, and have those cut in 12.5mm plate.. and install the mgn15H rails on top of 2040 extrusions, and a 12mm ballscrew on the Y axis (i have the 3040 extension). the X-Z axis will be that linear rail and ballscrew carriage you linked to for the Z-axis, and the X-axis is gonna be on the mgn15 rails, with a 12mm ballscrew... the bed/plate, im going to have a 12.5mm steel plate cut to match the dimensions of the 2x aluminum T-slots, for a total of 300mm X 360mm, and have that plate drilled and countersunk exactly like the MDF board in the extension kit was drilled, to attach the steel plate to the bottom of the 2x T-slots with the T-nuts, to keep those 2x T-slot plates flat (because currently, those 2x T-slots warp and pull up, because the MDF under it warps and sags).. the bed plate will also be drilled and countersunk, to fasten the Y-axis mgn15 rail carriages to the bottom of that plate, and thats how the bed will be fastened to the rails... i also plan to cut all the mounts and pieces in aluminum, once i have the final design hammered out and working. the purpose of this machine, is solely to cut aluminum parts.. not to cut acrylic or PCB's or wood.. and if everything goes well, i may be able to cut mild steel, if i cut slow and take really shallow passes.. anyway, sorry for the long reply.. thats my plans for this machine... if you could share the STEP file(s) for your mounting plates and housings configurations, for the mgn15 rails and the ballscrews on the Y-axis, that would help alot. thx
No worries, I’ll dig up my files for you. I’ve been meaning to publish them too printables but haven’t gotten around to it.
I finally got back to my CNC project, I recently got an air blaster / mister - so I drilled and tapped some holes into the mounting bracket. I’m pretty happy with the result. Then I finally got around to taking my spindle apart to install the relay and wiring for the GRBL_SPD controller. Unfortunately, ran out of time to test it.
I know I have long wanted one of those !! Unless there is something scary under the hood so to speak it may well work on 240V , I would need to see the spec as the relays on board are probably the standard small block ones with optocouplers in place to protect it, in the end I made my own using a 4 channel relay and mounted that in a plastic box with some sockets mounted in to it and some input plugs for the controllers. It works just fine and I use it on a 150 watt C02 laser to control a compressor and extraction system using M7and M8 GRBL commands to automate the process These small multi channel relays come in 10 amp and 30 amp variants so will easily switch on and off a router, 2hp compressor ( air assist) and a large bouncy castle blower which I use to suck out the air from the laser chamber... My bed is 1.2 x 1 metre by 1.2 metres tall so quite a large volume. I did look at SSR's but they are bulky and you need a big heatsink on them. I did a little video on how to use them last year which is here Your 3018 has come a long way!! looksgood. I still have a old Mach 3 which I am tempted to have a play at upgrading to a metal version but I also have a 1 Metre Leadscrew OB machine which is great but sometimes a little large and its in my garage and not always where I want to work in my house workshop...... Cheers
Cheers, nice relay board! I only used an SSR to power on my spindle as I had one lying around. My current solution uses standard relays for control. I’m just in the process of rewiring everything and switching to inductive end stops.
For liability reasons we always recommend that work with mains electricity should be done by a qualified electrician. Not questioning the skills and knowledge of the people who posted here, but not everyone reading this has the knowledge to do this safely. Please only work within the limits of your expertise - apart from the personal risk carrying out work you are not qualified to do could invalidate your insurance. Alex.
It's actually illegal to do your own electrical work in Australia, unless you get it signed off on by a registered electrician.
Luckily I dont live where Nanny state tells you how to live your life to that degree thank goodness, you would never get anything done ! It also helps that I am a qualified Engineer and do know what I am doing which is why I said I needed to see the specification.
Considering how stupid non technical ppl can be, I personally don’t think non certified ppl should be playing with 240v @ 15 amps. ppl still do it themselves and if their house burns down from an electrical fault, their insurance company has every right to refuse coverage. luckily for me I have multiple electricians in the family who will happily review and certify my work.
