My mods are highlighted in red. Your m5x10mm screws are too long and the 20x80 should be 20x40 for one of them. I'm still waiting for my gantry plates to finish the build so this is all I know so far until openbuilds ships those to me.

 

The Routy looks like a great

The Routy CNC looks like a great start for the beginner. Is there a kit that has all the parts/supplies one needs to build this or do you have to order each part separately from the parts list?
?

 

Once the build is listed as complete I'm sure kram242 will upload all info including a detailed parts list/breakdown.

We must all understand that this is not a finished build and as he has said, things may change along the way.

IMO I say wait till at least video 2 comes out before jumping the gun buying/sourcing parts you may not even use.

 

There is an experimental parts list in the files section. It's missing some parts. Some of the parts you need, like the leadscrew, are not for sale on openbuilds yet. There are no instructions, just some photos and a 3D file. You must order all of the parts separately because there's no kit yet. Many of the parts required are out of stock at the moment.

If I were you, I'd check back weekly and look at the parts list to see if it's done and then check the website to see if the parts are in stock... if not, just wait another week.

 

The M5 10mm are too long and will foul on the center of the V-Slot. 8mm is right.

You are missing M3 8mm screws, which you need 4 of for mounting one of the motors. (as discussed earlier in the thread)

You are also missing some M5 grub or set screws, for holding the belts down in conjunction with the t slot nuts. You may be able to get away with normal screws, but Kram uses a grub screw on the video for the belt and pinion example.

I also assume anyone starting now should order the solid wheels, as they would be better for this build (anyone give feedback on those?)

You may not need as many 2 hole joining plates as you have now that you have the double t-slot nuts, as I think that was the initial confusion.

Also, all the stuff to do with the z is kind of dependent on what you are mounting, so the bearings, lock collar, thread etc should all be researched before buying. I am using a spindle with a custom mount, and need an extra gantry plate to get the whole thing to fit. It's also worth considering going M8 on the z axis thread, as it needs to be pretty strong for a decent sized router. However, this needs a custom spacing arrangement.

One final thing, if you like neatness, then some 35mm M5s (4 of) would be good, as the 40s will stick out a bit when used in step 3.

 

According to this page, http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/routy-cnc-router-v-slot-belt-pinion.101/ it IS done and has a completed parts list. Now remember, I'm talking about the Routy NOT the OX which is still not complete.

 

The parts list is not complete, and I recommend you read this entire thread before considering purchasing anything. You need to research this build before starting!

 

OK. I guess I'm a little confused. Under the Routy build ~ parts list: ~ Build progress: It very clearly says Build Complete. So are you telling me that in the world of OpenBuild .com "build complete" doesn't mean the build is complete?

 

The following is true:-
OpenBuilds have built a Routy and it is complete, the photos document the build, along with the skp file
Not all of the parts for that are yet on the parts store
The parts list under the files tab is not an "official" list, it was made by a volunteer.
A "better" parts list is posted on this thread near the end and is mostly complete.
You will still need to read the entire thread to understand what is going on and what else you need to understand about the build

 

Thank you. For a moment I thought I had somehow entered the Twilight Zone. Keep in mind I am very new not only to this group but to CNC router building. I'm trying to feel my way around. I'm going to ask a lot of questions so please have patience with me. I'm very fascinated with CNC routers and am excited to build my first one. I'm trying to learn all I can. I still haven't discovered everything about this site.

 

no problem, ask away.

 

Grandpaw B, I'm in the exact same boat as you

Definitely need to do lots of research there first, I've bought several items and am realizing now what is missing. I'll also be contributing to the parts list when I figure out what is missing haha!

 

I believe 35mm is correct. I have ordered some 40mm M5's to be on the safe side for length, but I do think that 35mm would probably work. The model seems to have 35mm M5's, but I can't tell. I know for sure they are less than 45mm

 

Thanks. I'll be waiting. BTW Why is everything in Metric? Is this group from the UK?

 

I would guess because all aluminium extrusion, even in the US, is metric. That and it is obviously an easier format to work in

 

Thanks Chris. Now I'm a little bit smarter. LOL

 

Actually not all extrusion is metric, but it makes the sums a lot easier.
And in the UK we technically have imperial and metric, but we are slowly moving over to metric for most things

 

Imperial units are absurd. If you don't believe me, go get a tape measure and then measure exactly 5.387 inches.

 

But if that's what you've been taught sense first grade, then the metric system seems stupid.

 

Is it just me or does the model show a total of 16 extra precision shims? The parts list is showing two and I'm not sure where they come in but I see a total of 8 (4 on each side) on the y axis and 8 more on the x axis (one on each side of the wheel). There don't appear to be any on the z axis.

 

Is that including or excluding the one that comes in the bag with each wheel? I have only one on each wheel of my x-axis gantry, and only one on each wheel of each of my y axis gantries. They seem to work fine, but maybe there is something I'm missing?

 

If you use the low profile screws then you don't need to extra spacers on the two y gantries. I also think the x is fine. (but I haven't attached my x to z) The bottom screw attaching the motor plate is the one which is close.

 

My understanding is the precision shims are normally used between the bearings, inside the wheel. The shims on the parts list are the same as the ones included in the wheel kit. The reason for shims instead of washers is because washers are too thick and make the bearings stick out and not contact the delrin on the inner part of the wheel. If Mark added a spacer to every wheel then you would need 16 extra washers or precision shims. Or maybe just 4 because it looks like only the z axis has screws sticking back. Or maybe none if you get the right length screws or put them through the other way, I dunno.

 

Is the point of the shims inside the wheels for friction reasons or simply for spacing. I haven't used any inside the wheels because they didn't seem to make any difference.

EDIT: Just been playing with a wheel and if you put a shim inside between the bearings you can't tell any difference at all. The delrin has a lip that acts as spacing and the turning friction is the same with or without.

 

If you don't use a shim your bearings will wear faster. You have a bolt pressing the inner races towards each other and with no spacer/shim they wear the bearings out. Worn bearings wobble which makes your machine less accurate.

 

The washer is literally sliding around inside the bearings because the delrin lip is bigger than the shim. It might have limited use, but only once the delrin has worn away.

 

sand some of the delrin off or use a vice to compress the delrin contacting the outer races until the inner races contact the spacer. You may be able to just do it by hand or lightly tap a piece of wood on a socket on the bearings.