Here's my mount, also z end stop.

 

Adam thanks so much, could you post your STL for the bed mount?

 

Looking great gwandad, let me know if your Z motor mounts fit perfectly to your stepper motors. I'm using the openbuilds stepper motors and the holes did not line up exactly, I had to bore them out a little bit.

 

They are all over on the triple c thread.

 

Here is a first pass Chimera/Cyclops mount, I should get my chimera hot end tomorrow so I can check for fit then. See Attached STL and Renders

 

Carl, If you are wondering what the strange glow in the south-west is, it is my red face. I hadn't looked in the drawings! I assumed it would be the same as the file of stls. My apologies, Mate, can we put it down to age induced stupidity?

 

So your bed consists of just the heater and glass on top of it?

 

I'll take another pass on it, thanks for the feedback on the couplings Carl

 

I was thinking that heater block was pretty close to the plastic.


Also, I have stopped using the binder clips, I sit the glass on gino pad, a silicone thermal transfer mat.

 

While we are on the topic of heated beds, I was wondering if anyone who has done an 8x12 bed could share a link to the heater they used?

 

these are the guys who made mine. they have a 8.4 x 12.6 http://3dheatbeds.com/

 

That was the one I had been looking at. Wasn't sure about the extra size if it would fit properly.

 

You may not be able to print to the entire surface, but it will fit.

On a side note.

http://www.mosaicmanufacturing.com/blog-1/2015/hardware-heaven

Going to be launched on kick starter tomorrow. I am really excited about this. There has been a ton of testing behind this and it is a quality product with real impact potential for the community. You can read about it here.

 

I use the .5 mil sheets, cut into 1" square, checkerboard. That's a link on my BOM, Amazon prime ftw!

The early birds blew out on that kick starter. 15 minutes I ended up on tier 3.

 

I just printed the AcmeBlockHolders and was test fitting it with the block. I measured the distance between the face of the block and the back of the holder at 28mm. Has anyone mounted these and did a 30mm screw work? Not sure if 2mm of thread is enough for the screw to engage the tee-nut. Or is there another way this is suppose to mount?

 

Will try grabbing some M5 30mm from HomeDepot and give it a go. But now that your reminded me of that picture... I like the bracket he made for the Z-bed support. Have you seen if anyone else has done something like those for 20x40? I know NickM used 20x60 for his Z-bar.

 

I like it too sadly I'm using 20x40 for my Zbar. I was planning to try 25-30mm M5 bolts for the threaded blocks but for now I'm using a bunch of washers and the 40mm M5 bolts included in the BOM.

I'm at the point of squaring up my frame and wondering if anyone else had trouble doing this? The build instructions are a bit hard to understand, it looks like each end is built, squared then bolted together but I'm trying to square the frame while completely assembled....I just left everything "snug" so I can slide any rails apart to ensure each side is the same length.

Past this I believe I have everything to finish my build except build plate springs which I'm hoping a visit to home depot/lowes will solve. I am going to use standard limit switches since I'm running an Azteeg X5 and I read the makerbot style used in the C-Bot BOM don't work...



Anyone have mounts designed for this type? Worst case I'll design some and post them here.

 

Thanks for the comparisons, I really appreciate it. I went back and rebuilt my clone E3D V5 and got it running fairly well but the print quality is still not quite what my J-head is capable of producing. Oddly enough so far I have had better luck quality wise with PLA on my V5 vs ABS. My Jhead is a 0.35mm nozzle though vs the E3D at 0.4mm. I have some 0.2mm and 0.3mm nozzles for the E3D on order though(I prefer to print slowly with highest quality).

I plan to design a mount for the J-head and C-Bot but also want to try a real E3D V6 but the $85 price tag is hard to swallow if it doesn't meet my quality expectations.

 

Thanks. I'm using Robotdigg attached 8mm rods 350mm long, so won't permanently mount them for a bit yet, but I tried them on, unmounted & they're like Cinderella's slipper. Perfect fit.

 

There is an open builds plate for the mini switch. When I get home I will look, I imported all the open builds parts into my fusion project. Pretty easy to get an stl from that.

Make sure your floor/table is level before building your bot. The guy I bought my house from liked to dabble in the"grey"areas. I was dumbfounded at why my frame was so off. Like 7-9mm from square. All my cuts were good, all the rectangles were equal. Turned out my floor is sloped, when I moved it to a different location the frame magically was square.

 

Here is the .stl for this. Thats a pretty good start, you could easily modify that slightly. That could work pretty directly for Z, one of your axis(the one that mounts near the motor Y on mine, X on Carl's i think. This would let you mount a switch on the gantry plate, ( like my X ) I dont know where your endstops / axis are.


@hax0red Are you trying to print hot materials? What are your thoughts on the V6 Lite? good for ABS and PLA, but probably not so great for PET(x)

 

In answer to my own question... I was able to successfully connect the Acme Block to the Z-Bar using 30mm M5 screws. It was a bit tight but I figure it just has to be able to hold the block in position as there are several other mounting spots that can deal with keeping things in place.

 

I don't know if it has been brought up in the past, but I found these end caps for the V-Slot (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515). It looks like there are only two places where they are needed. At the end of the legs, behind the X/Y Motor Mounts, there is a 20x20 end that is visible. It is not visible so might not be worth putting a cap on it. The other place is the end of the bars supporting the bed. That is visible. I had to scale these up 1% on X and Y to get them to fit snug.

 

Thanks Adam! I'm hoping to figure out the limit switches once I have the belts run ect, until then the picture isn't really clear lol.

I normally print with PLA but also enjoy and need to use ABS at some points. For PLA I print at 180-210C and ABS 220-240C usually. I do have plans of one day trying out some higher temp materials like Colorfabb XT, Nylon, Polycarbonates ect. The V6 lite price is great but it has about the same limitations as the J-head so if the print quality can meet or beat it I'd say it's a clear winner, if not I would rather pay the extra $20-25 for the J-head. Honestly if there was a $100 hot end with amazing print quality I would gladly pay for it. I'll probably eventually buy a E3D V6, E3D V6 Lite, Hexagon, Ubis and MK8 extruder/hot end combo(same as Makerbot runs) and do a comparison to figure out which head offers the best quality/temperature range.

I honestly haven't seen too many E3D prints that rival my J-head's quality so I'm not real hopeful. Here are a few examples of my J-head at it's best:






Hopefully my C-Bot will beat this quality while being less fiddly then my Kossel.

 

Forgot to attach a photo I found of the Hexagon hot end's unique heat break construction. To me this just screams quality and really makes me wanna try a Hexagon. Just wish it came with 0.3mm nozzle and that they had the option to buy a 0.2mm nozzle(only offer 0.3-0.5mm).