Could the openbuilds nema 23 175 oz for the z axis on the OX be capable of running with one of the larger routers such as the bosch router , which i beleive is around 8.5 lbs. Or would this cause the 20x60 mm x axis beams sandwiched together to flex too much.

 

Are you talking about the 3kw Bosch?
That's 5 pounds heavier than say a kress 800. I think you'd also have to upgrade from belts with extra 2 horses going into the material, don't know how much lateral pressure the v wheels can take but definitely see mine stress when my kress 800 digs in. extra 2.2 horses think you'll find they will fail.

 

Friend bought an ox kit form swd3d or something like that, the instructions and post sale support is less than stellar. He paid for several upgrades, tinyG, and a quiet spindle upgrade. The speed controller arrived with bent heat sync, cap with a tear in it, one of the screw down commotion terminals I was torn from the PCB. When I say instructions are less than a stellar, this is really an understatement.

Also the kit came with no limit switches or wire (boo), and a single wall plug for two 24v PSU's. Again no wiring diagram so I am clueless as to the way it's intended to be wired. Can you wire two PSU AC inputs in parallel to a single 110ac wall plug? <---- is that crazy or common?

On the hunt for answers, this is why I am here.

When he sent two 24v PSU's I assume one is for the steppers (tinyG board), and one for the spindle speed controller. I had to dig to try to figure that out, but I just have to take it on faith that the spindle and speed controller is 24v as they have no markings and are not listed in the lit. I did see a few 48v spindle, speed controller and PSU combos on the net. So still not 100% sure iron verified as to what I have to work with (hardware wise).

Also he offers zero info on the tinyG, but I found the github repo from synthetos. After reading, I see each stepper motor is individual (motor 1-4) so I just wire them up any any order I wish, and define them in the Firmware? What I am getting at is I need two Y axis steppers. I assume I define what motor is what and can control the direction from the FW, my goal is to make two y axis steppers one with a switched direction (swap a1 a2) so the push and pull of both y axis motors are in the same direction.


However, first I power the TinyG with PSU and USB connected and VCP drivers installed (before I hook up the motors) and use a CooLTerm to to test my USB connection and verify flow control using some test code from the TinyG github repo. Then if everything is ok, install the motors.

After the motors (4 bipolar motors) are wired, it's time to set motor current using TH trimpots. He has a nema 23 upgrade for the z axis. I have never set the current for a stepper before, but it seems straight forward 4 to 8 o'clock pot adjustment on the trimpots.


The TinyG has a 12/24volt fan controller for cooling. It uses a 3 pin fan connection and a jumper to switch between 12 or 24 volts. The three pins are +-and signal. The 12v fan sent is a 2 pin 12V fan, so I don't see how that works (unless it's for the speed controller) , because you inky want it to come on when the sensor wire turn it on.

What is actual control software that you guys use. I see synthetos has so thing called ChiliPepper, have no clue of is good, or not. What should I be using?


I want to help my friend get it wired and moving as it should, but I want to cover all my bases before I causes damage for lack of knowledge. Thanks for reading this, and any help you can offer.

 

Ac psu's? Do you mean dc? Dc stepper drivers are more common, I'd be suprised if you had ac drivers for nema 23's as generally only used for anything over 50v. Though the spindle is either likely to be ac, Where you would usually have a variable frequency drive not a psu. These are 240v so don't require a psu. Or a 24v dc spindle which sounds more like the one you have.

In which case you would want to run the motor from its own psu to avoid interference to drivers. Adding a filter between motor and psu (close to motor as pos) and another between the other psu and wall socket is a good way to avoid noise. You do need to make sure that the driver wattage/amps do not exceed the other psu output.

Here in the UK single phase is 13a. As long as all the components do not draw more than 13a they can all be run from a single plug. Anything over 13a and you will require 3phase. Or simply share the supply over two sockets upto 13a total each. But for 2 24v supplies you should be fine on a single socket just avoid extension leads (double check the amps tho)

Hope this helps

 

I think @Akfreak refers to the AC INPUTS of the PSU, not the output that very likely is DC.
So, yes, they can be in parallel to the AC wall plug based on the max A available as @Jonny Norris pointed out.

 

Yes, AC in DC out. I was asking many things, but wiring the AC "IN" for dual PSU's was one question. The kit came with a single cord to the wall plug. Since there is zero wiring info, I was wondering is the dual PSU common, and is it common to wire them, (the 2 PSU's) to a single AC input (as in a single wall plug) in a parallel circuit?

 

What CNC control software is good for a new person to learn? Is the ChiliPepper a good place to start, or are the better free options to start with! He is windows based and using the TinyG

 

On a different subject, what specs on a PC does one need to run a cnc machine? Is ram the bottleneck, or CPU? What do I need to look for to run a cnc effectively.

 

I run mine with an old Pentium 4 with 1gb of RAM

 

That should work fine

 

If you have a motion controller with a descent buffer you can use a less powerful PC. reduces the chance of lag being an issue.

But p4 1gb ram is recommended min spec

 

Ok do a second cord it is for the dual PSU, and we will use a power strip with a switch to get started as an on off setup. So now I am on to the Control computer. I am thinking of running a Raspberry PI with ChiliPepper via a network. Do any of you have direct experience with that?

 

If anyone is looking for the ox plates i have some brand new that i bought from clockwerk a few months ago, i decided to go with the ooznest kit so will not need these. PM me if interested

 

Got some low speed stepper jitters. Due to my maximum rpm of 12000, I can only cut 1/16" ply at around 75mm/min using a 1/16" bit. It's like the motors are jumping every step at that low of a feed. Much smoother above 200mm/min. Also, one of the Y stepper jitters while the machine is not cutting? Any thoughts? Noticed that the hard steps are throwing the gantry off when cutting, messed up a couple ply fuselage formers.

 

Guys,

I ordered all the parts needed to put this machine together. (hopefully all..) - followed the parts list which looks on the mark!

Are there drawings available for this machine?

 

Got the "jitter while stationary" stepper resolved, rerouted my spindle power supply to the other side of the gantry. I think the step jitter is maybe a configuration issue. I tried multiple different settings for $100 and $101, also $0. No glory, they even chatter at 250mm/min. I'm missing something.

Gray, no video camera at the moment. I've dropped my phone one too many times.

 

Just ran the same test at F2000, smooth! I adjusted the current to each stepper, to lock out, then backed each off until they run continuously without thermal lock. The drivers heat sinks get hot but I can still touch them. Oh, I'm running an XPro V2 and GRBL controller. Maybe I should try UGCS?

 

that sounds like low current to me. The xpro v2 is rated 2.5a peak, what are your motors rated at?

 

Low current can be caused by voltage drop, check your psu voltage and driver output voltage also

Good luck

 

Thanks for the input men, grilling and drinking beer. CNC will have to wait till tomorrow, have a good Memorial Day!

 

Enjoy your beer!
I have the same type of issue up until 300 mm/min, both with UGCS and GRBL controller.
Also, I use xPro V2 and steppers rated to max 2,8A.
Power input should not be a problem using 24V 60A PSU and I don't see any voltage drop while using it.
Max A, though, can be the guilty, but I would avoid to change the board to see if it is it. (I don't know if I can measure the real current draw at the stepper phase).
I decided to live with that keeping the feed rate over the 300 mm/min until I can (mainly cutting ply) hoping someone else find a solution to apply to aluminum type of work

 

I'm running 24V 20A, wonder if I should get a PSU with higher amperage? Wish I could run at 300mm/min, but I don't have the RPM's in my spindle to run that fast in ply with a 1/16" bit. I went with the 400w chinese spindle because it was quiet, maybe I should deal with the noise and mount a router on it?

 

I hope you were not both advised to use xpros on here as sadly It has been posted. They are yet another company that is marketing their 3d printing gear as a cnc board and making false claims in their capability.

When you swap them out, for nema 23 you need Drv drivers rated at same amps as your motors. Toshiba drivers only emit half their rated current so avoid these.

Good luck

 

What? Can you direct me to a link to that discussion. I wasn't advised, per se, but it seemed widely accepted as a suitable controller for an OX using Nema 23's.