Glad I could contribute something to tempt someone else for a change. Not sure why the 20x40 slot would be different unless it was tweaked before the STL was posted and the source didn't get updated. I didn't touch any of the code for the vertical slot. It wouldn't be too hard to size it a bit bigger if you think it needs it.

 

Yeah, it is a bit weird. I have made at least 30 of the regular Delta Six vertices, and they are a nice tight fit. Tight, but functional. I used exactly the same slicing settings for the new taller unitsm and the same filament, and you can not push the extrusion in by hand like the originals. I would expect it to be firmer pushing it farther, but just getting it started is didicult.

And before anyone starts a big discussion on dhrrinkage, PLA vs ABS, and whatever, like I said, I have had piles of them in the same color, mfg, and slicing profiles work without a hitch.

I am looking forward to seeing someone else print one in ABS and see how they think theirs fit. I will be using the prints I made, just gotta runn 'em through the press first.

Thanks for your great work, and don't take any of this as critical to you, as it is not meant to be. It is just that I don't understand the result I am getting.

 

Each printer has it quicks, that goes for 3d, paper or any other printer. Everyone sets things differently and the final product is always different

 

Yup, true 'nuff

 

Bad link
6 Vertex http://www.openbuilds.com/attachments/vertex_20x40-stl.1258/ Print 6 of these with decent resolution on any 3D printer

Better check your links as I found a few that were dead and/or outdated (iow missing).

 

why the use of 4 wheels per arm when 3 wheels is what machines are finally moving over to? Less drag, friction, cost, and no real negatives to it from what I have read. Now on a CNC router with force and heavy loads 4 wheels is almost a must but for any 3d printer you don't have any of that.

 

I use 3 wheel carriages on my MuttRap, which runs on the 20mm side of the 20x40 rail, but with the D6 running up and down on the wider side, it has a wider and shorter area to place the 3 wheels and get proper "squaring". You could use 3 wheels, but I gues nobody has taken the time to convert. The V-wheels roll really nice, and work well.

 

Right. I am a tightwad and the cost of the wheels (s lot of people are now saying this across various forums) being a bit overboard I think that is why a lot have gone to 3 more than because of drag or friction.

 

The following parts are being printed - http://www.openbuilds.com/attachments/delta-six-zip.2509/
- Effector 1x
- Carriage 3x
- Vertex idler 3x
- Vertex

anything else should be printed?

 

You should have:
6 - vertices
3 - carriages
3 - carriage back plates
3 - idler plates
1 - effector

This is the minimum. from there, you will need to determine several other things. Items you might need"
Spool holder (horizontal or vertical
Extruder parts or mounts
print bed attachment pieces
FSR or other bed leveling / Z-height adjustment pieces
Controller mount
PSU mount
Feet
filament guide(s)
endstop mounts
enclosure mounting system / framework
and whatever other bits/parts/pieces that make your build what you want it to be.

This should give you enought to do until lunch...

 

what are those metal kinda plates? are those mandatory or the carriage back plate is enough?

 

I suppose even the back plate may not be mandatory... may be interesting to test

 

You get extra sexiness points if you get Robert Hummel to make you a set!! His stuff is great!

 

They look good too

 

how did you ppl place the end-stop switches?

 

I am working on the Delta6x6 right now, and I am going to drill a hole through the top vertice as well as the extrusion (center of the extrusion). I will then put the endstop mounting bracket against the bottom edge of the vertice and pass the wire through the new hole and down to the bottom vertice area and back into the cavity where the motors and electronics reside. That way it is all neat and tidy, as well as separated from the other wiring to help keep down interference.

 

I'll print a switch mount (not designed yet, but will be very simple)

 

Does Marc have the file for the metal one used with the endstop kit that OB sells? I would think that something simple like a plate with a couple of hole for the ES and one for the bolt to extrusion would be a snap to design and print. If we added a lottle jogged arm with a slot for a zip tie to provide a bit of wire restraint/management, it could be flipped up/ down, or on its side and work well. I think little pieces like that can make a project. I hate wire clutter!

 

I thought you and Robert had yours done?

 

Not yet, we still need to put the heat bed and do some wiring (well at least on mine, I don't know where he is on his)

 

OK, I just thought I was behind...as usual.

 

Hi, I have started to build my D6, (eg I have ordered the v-slot and have had the plastics printed) this is my first printer so while I wait for the parts to turn up, any suggestions on the following?

I was thinking of going for a Smoothieboard and using .9deg step stepper motors and a E3D V-6 hot end. Does the firmware for the Smoothieboard do auto leveling using FSR correctly on a delta?

many thanks, pics when parts turn up.

 

Thinking of building this printer. I have a prusa i3 that I built but want to build a delta. Keep going back to this one. So I think it will be the one. What do you guys think.

Anyone selling plates?

 

Robert Hummel has them for sure, not sure if anyone else is cutting this set. Pics are a few posts up.

 

bought the v-slot n tried to insert it into one of the vertices I have but I'm not able to insert it.The vertex material is PLA printed in medium resolution.Should I use a hammer kinda thing to insert the V-slot or little bit of grinding the edges would be ok? Anybody faced this?

 

I have had mine printed and the v-slot fits perfectly, I only mention so you know the dimensions for the vertices are correct. The answer to you question depends a lot on how tight it is. Can you measure the vertices carefully, if you are a mm or more too small I expect using a hammer will end in tears.

 

If you heat it a little bit before inserting it it help

 

My suggestion would be to print a calibration cube or something of a known size. I suspect the printer you are using to print your parts is not sized right. Look at it this way, if it is off, then everything you do will be off. My parts are tight, but can be installed and slid off by hand. It takes some pushing, but it works.

 

Starting to take form, frame is together, still waiting on a lot of parts and starting to draw and machine the carriages. I have decided to build a single sided carriage out of 6mm with the screw heads recessed.
The pictures don't do it justice, it is about 1100mm high andn 400mm a side.

 

Does anyone has working marlin configurations here? I can't get my steppers to move... and the stepsticks are very hot even without any steppers plugged in...