How much did you spent ? I'm looking to build my own printer but I'm trying something that is cheaper first !

 

By the way, I really liked the design but since I'm really a noob reading all kinds of documentation about 3d printer and trying to get into this world will be ok for myself to build it? Do we have a step by step or it is really easy to do it, just need time and patience??

Thanks and Congrats it looks great.
Jaspion3D

 

Jaspion3d,
I am a noob too and I think it will be fairly easy build from the looks of it. It doesn't have to have any printed parts unless you want them as you can buy all of the extruded aluminum at the OpenBuilds store along with hardware, wheels and plates. I am starting my first build soon (a MendelMax 1.5) and if I would have seen this first I would have built this instead. Not as expensive as a MendelMax ( in my opinion ) and a lot easier. Since I have already purchased half the mechanicals I might as well continue on.
PatrickB

 

I am no noob here but my i3 rework has been a lemon from day one and anyone who comes over to see it is stumped about its problem. After 1.5+ years and thousands upon thousands of hours of twiddling and buying upgrades I am done with this printer as it no longer prints. I spent 100 times more twiddling and trying to make it work than I ever did printing with it.

So, how much would this cost for just the hardware (I will strip my i3 rework of everything I can) and no RP.

How hard is this to level the bed?

Really, I am just after a printer that lets me have fun and I can mod and tweak not spend my life banging on it to get it to work.

 

I have a MK2B on this I3 Rework and I can say I detest, no despise, 4 corner leveling. 3 point is just so much easier to do from everything I have read. I can't get this to level to save my life and that is even with a Heat Spreader and 3mm Boro Glass. Get the four corners to be the same and the middle is poking up.

 

The MK2b I have has the hole but does the build plate have the holes that line up with it?

 

Nice. Will it need 3d parts?

With this build what is the min and maximum resolution we can get?

Thanks
Jaspion3d

 

Nope and why I want to make one or at least farther up in this thread said.

 

http://industrialmetalsales.com/1-8...uminum-Flat-Bar-176-6061-1-8-x-3-x-12flat.htm That is the only one I could find for $1.76 from them that is in your BOM.

I read above that it didn't need printed parts as all could be purchased from the openbuilds store but if this needs printed parts I am done with my thoughts of having one as I can't print anymore and why I am looking to destroy my current printer and use the electronics in a new one.

 

It does but I think I may actually be done with 3d printers as I have painted myself into a corner. **** this pos i3 rework.

Thank you for your help.

edit: Actually I may not need to print the extruder if I somehow could get the i3 rework's Wades to work on it just long enough to print the extruder yours uses. As far as motor mounts I have no clue and I am not sure if anyone does.

Oh, I just pulled the build plate up in Solidworks and the holes are 209mm ctc with one in the middle of each. That is precisely where the MK2/a/b/MK3 have them.

 

I also ran a few numbers through the reprap calculator and I am seriously thinking gt2 belts shouldn't even be used. For Y the C Beam actuator is perfect. For X I guess C Beam would work there too.

Gt2 16t (my X/Y setup) is 100 steps to a mm but the TR8x2 is 1600 steps to a mm with both using 1/16 stepping. That is one hell of an increase and I can imagine how much finer the model would print.

Do you think X could use a C beam actuator and what about Z? I already have M5 all threaded rods on my i3 rework so I know the motors are not meant for that setup but it works so a TR8x2 there would solve a lot of issues but the resolution would drop from 1/4000 to 1/1600 but for Z who cares when we are dealing in .1mm layer heights. Heck, even a .05mm layer height would be no problem with either as the resolution is just so fine.

edit: I went back through the thread and see that Keith Davis used at least one C-Beam so it could be done for Z too which is where he used it that I could see.

 

Do you believe that this part 3D Printed with 100% infill will fit

 

I know that we can't do some things because the resolution in X and Y is just not there and people have taken to doing 2:1 resolution enhancers and everyone that does it says they can see sharper edges and better holes.

As far as printed parts goes I hate them. ABS, even 100% infill solid, bends and PLA is so rigid you need to build for it. Just not too happy with plastic for parts and 3mm would be, exactly as you said, just too flimsy. If anyone prints out a carriage don't do it in ABS is all I will say.

 

I would to see more about this build.