I think the spacing between rods is narrower on the original files. There is a redrawn effector for Mag arms, but I haven't seen the Traxxas style. Time to bug Kyo again.
Nice ! It is looking good. Makes me want to go work on mine Here is a carriage I drew up a little while back pretty much the stock D6 carriage allowing you to use eccentrics and full size wheels with the stock D6 effector. I never used it as fina needed mini wheels as well so I just ordered extra at once.
Things are slowly going forward, spent the last day machining the carriage ways. I have changed the standard ones from 2x 3mm plates to a single 6mm plate with recesses for the screws. I have additional holes in the plates to allow me to try a few other configurations.
Was doing some research on advantages/disadvantages of delta printers. Was pretty impressed with the positive attributes of the style so went out looking for plans and came across this one. I have an extra controller (Ramps 1.4) that needs a printer attached to it so thought I would look into building one of these next. I am currently finishing up a CoreXY printer so it will probably be several more months before I can really get started on a new build. In reading through the discussion, I did notice on thing that kept coming up and that was the material to use for printing the parts. ABS seems to be considered the best material, but it has a lot of issues with warping if not printed right. I was wondering if anyone had printed the parts using PET-G filament? This is what I used for my CoreXY printer and it is great. Claims to have the strength of ABS with the ease of printing of PLA. Up until recently, I was only able to find it in transparent colors. It seems that eSun has released an solid white and black version of PET-G.
I printed a vertex out of PET-G last night. The ESUN transparent blue .It prints well but is quite temperamental. Heated bed at 90℃, .4 nozzle at 250℉. Perimeters at 40 with 50% infill at 60 at 0.4mm layer height. Still lots of stringing with 8mm retract at 30mm/s but I just use a torch and they clean up . Print time was 2:47 . This stuff seems much stronger than ABS to me. Only problem is the filament isn't available on Amazon right now and I'd like to print them all blue. PETG would be my filament of choice for structural stability in a build
I used the blue on my printer. Was just checking Amazon since that is where I had been ordering it from. No blue. But did see the red, yellow, clear, and orange. Also the solid black and white was available. You can buy it direct from Intservo (http://www.intservo.com/products/esun-petg-filament-1-75mm-1kg-spool?variant=963058195). Never ordered from them so don't know where they are located at or what they are like ordering from. I run down in the 30-35 mm/s range when I print it and it does pretty good. Not much stringing. Print at 235 with the bed at 70. You might be getting all the strings from the temp being too high.
Has anyone talked about/implemented a dual extruder for this printer? I saw there are dual extruder delta printers so know it can be done. Just curious if anyone has looked into it for this one yet?
Anyone interested in a set of 6 vertexes in yellow PET-G? I came up with some mods to the vertex that I was wanting to use and then when I could only get the black v-rail, I figured I would also change the color. Just pay for shipping.
I had a question on idler. Is the M5 bolt suppose to be able to turn? Is the pulley locked down on the bolt or does it turn free?
What I have done with my idler's is in the pictures, by way of explanation: Flat plate 22 mm outside, 10mm inside washer (to fill the recess for the stepper and make the bearing sit flush) 3x 8mm? outside, 5mm inside washers as spacers Toothed pulley(tighten grub screw). This assembly holds the bolt in position so it can't slide but rotates in the bearing. then Nyloc nut washer second bearing This stops the second bearing moving away from the upright. Make sure the bolt is cut short so it does not touch the upright. The bolt does not touch the flat plate or the 22mm washer, it runs in the bearings. Hope that helps, I can do a drawing if you need.
Getting closer now, Arms are made, I went with carbon fiber over the ball joints to make it more rigid. I will order a Smoothie controller this week and power supply so I hope to have it move soon.
Yes the bolt rotates in the bearings, if you are using a toothed idler it should be locked to the bolt so the bearing do the rotating.
Hi. New to the forum and loking forward to start building this printer. Can anybody upload the stl files. The link in the parts list for the vertex is broken. Looks like an amazing printer
Thanks lmclaren dont now how i missed that file :S BalaKrishnan you should try some of the T-Nuts http://openbuildspartstore.com/tee-nuts-25-pack/ and not the spring loaded nuts you are using.
Here is the effector I designed and plan on using I will update the stl files as I go and will make a printable version of the aluminum retaining plate