Looks great Robert! I wondered what you had been doing,

 

Printed!

 

Very nice Robert,

I am up to the effector now so will be taking a close look.

 

What electronics setup did you use? I'm a neophyte in the world 3d-printers, so I'm easily getting confused. Im going to retrofit the printer model with a linear actuator paste extruder for food printing. Then I'm going to attach it to an open sided halogen oven so the printed food can get cooked. FYI, these is a Senior HS Science Fair project.

 

I am putting a Smoothieboard on mine, I am looking for high speed.
If you are going to be printing relatively slowly then most controllers should be fine.

I would choose the one with the feature you need / can hack to do what you want. A lot of controllers (Smoothie included) can be bread boarded so this may suit you more for a Science Fair project.

 

tried using the openbuilds t-nuts also.no improvement.

 

BalaKrishnan, Can you put the nut in like in the picture?


As you can see from the attached photo of my vertex, the printed material should not go inside the channel where the nut is installed.

Do you have a photo in the same direction as the one below?

 

oh yes! I thought the screw would go with the flat side facing down.Thank you!

 

Here are all my files to date, I will continue to update as my build comes along
There are stl files for the aluminum effector parts also but I have not tested it with them yet

 

Couple questions about your files. First I noticed on your vertex that you don't have the M3 holes for pulling the top up to tighten the belts like the original vertex does it. Also your carriage doesn't have a belt tightening method. I was wondering how you were planning on doing the belt tightening? Also, the vertex doesn't have the hole for the second bearing on the idler puller. Are these vertex only for the bottom part of the printer?

The other question I had was if you are still doing the cool metal plates?

 

I was looking at my end stop options and the end stop connector on the vertex and wanted to see what others were using for end stops. It seems all the units I find won't fit the mount for one reason or another. Anyone willing to share pictures of how you have your end stops?

 

Limit switches and belt binding system The unused holes were removed from the vertex.



Here's the file for the limit switch holder:

 

@dddman So it looks like with your setup, you made your own end stop bracket and your idler plate is movable to tighten the belts. Correct?

 

You're right. We also have eccentrics on the plate to add a little bit more adjustment.

 

Hi Robert,
I notice you have proximity detector, what sort of bed are you using?
I have an unheated glass bed for testing but was going to get an aluminium bed 340mm x 4mm and put a 240v heater on it.

 

it is an aluminum bed. 240V? Don't leave any exposed terminal!

 

No, I will be careful, earth the plate etc.
Do you print direct onto the aluminum bed? Is it just the standard finish on the sheet or have you had it polished / sanded?

thanks

 

We use a glass plate. You can print directly on the glass but the prints are really difficult to release. I use green masking tape (painters mate branded, the other ones don't work as good) with "finesse" air spray (the cheapest one works better).

 

Robert, could you provide the dimensions of the aluminum effector plate? I printed your stl file and it came out fine. Was able to assemble a hot end into it. I was wanting to make a slight modification to allow nuts to be embedded into the plate for the clip to screw into. I had threaded the plastic, but one of the screws has stripped out of it.

Also I was wondering about the extra little bit on your hot end that is sticking up past the clip. Is that something you added or that came with your E3Dv6 hot end?

 

I have officially started this build! Test fitting the length to make sure my calculations were correct. It fits the rostock max v2 heated bed from seemecnc perfectly. I wanted to leave the option for adding acrylic panels as an enclosure.

 

What length aluminum did you cut for the 3 sides of the triangle? I have been looking at building a delta for awhile & this looks like the size I would like. What lengths are you making your verticals?

thanks.

 

Each side of the triangle was cut to ~14.75 inches or 375mm. I'm going to have 2 triangles on the bottom, and use leftover extrusion to space them 20mm apart, and have 1000mm verticals.

 

Magnetic effector printed and ready, here's the dry fitting. It is modeled after the one I have on my Rostock

 

Where did you get the files for the effector and what carrages are you using?

 

The effector model was on a seemecnc thread by Xnaron for the magnet mod, I've modified it with tabs to hold the layer fans. I'm also modifying the carriages from the same thread for some other fun stuff. The effector model is linked in a comment towards the end of the thread.

Thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=1704

Here's the same effector on my Rostock:

 

Would be interested in looking at the files. Trying to decide what to use for the effector. I like the design where most of the hotend is above it, like this one.

 

Well here is my modified effector and the cad project(nvm doesn't allow .123dx extensions).
I added tabs at ~5 degrees to fit these layer fans: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:614597

The tabs print just big enough that you can taper down the end with an exacto knife to get a snug fit.

Edit:
The effector is for the e3dv6

 

Printed up a test version of the file last night. Bit tight of a fit for my E3Dv6, but nothing a little time with an X-Acto knife won't fix. Is there another file for the top part that locks the hot end in place?

 

I use this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137140