Well I stand corrected on the 1/4in shank diameter

 

DOH! Someone beat me to it. But now I know I definitely want 1/4" ER collet tool holder and not 1/8".

 

Getcher motor runnin'. Here's the wiring diagram I used to get an Arduino to make the motor spin at various speeds. Oh man I messed it up. The white wire goes to the pin9 and the black goes to GND. sheesh.
Just a word of caution, these motors are extremely dangerous. I have mine bolted to a board and the board is clamped to my desk. I tried to run it without bolts/clamps and it took off like a wheel and almost smashed my monitor. You have been warned...

 

Almost there.

 

This is why when we build quad copters the opposite side goes in reverse.

To balance the torque.

Hold the motor in your hand and feel the head torque.

This is why i have my Z axis down the middle of my spindle shaft. In relation to X,Y moving parts.
Others might find this method allows for better torque control, as it is more balanced being on the Z - Axis center.

When you move the Z Axis from the X, Y you are exaggerating the torque effect.

Hold motor turn on, hand close to body. Then move the arm to full length turn it on, harder to control. You see.

I think it is torque acting on a lever, when it should rotate around the spindle center @ x, y location reducing this lever effect to ZERO.

interconnect.me.uk

 

Yep, with washers on both ends. I left off the lock-collar for now and will make a clamp the same way they make scope mounts... maybe 6 screws holding it onto the v-slot. I'll have to add a right-triangular brace in the future to keep the vslot from flexing.

 

Is it not true if you reduce shaft length on the tool then you get less flex in the tool doing the work?

This is what i would do, reduce errors by reducing long parts to shorter parts that have less flex.

 

Yes, but the shafts you can buy are always long. The motor bearings are weak and can't handle a side-load so we use the extra shaft to add bearings and then the bigger bearings are coupled to the z axis. The actual distance between the tool and the mount is maybe 2cm. The top of the motor spins freely and the bearings all the way down are fixed to the machine. But yeah it kinda looks like this big long thing which is connected at the top so it has a huge torque radius... but that's not the case, depending how you mount it.

 

Hey dudes,
So I am getting ready to make all this and wanted to run it by you all to make sure it will work. I've got a double-fluted solid carbide bit with 1/4" diameter(6.35mm), some aluminium from the recycling centre (plate=12mm or 1/2" and block=37mm or 1.5"), and my spindle is mounted very cheaply with some bearings, hose clamps, and a steel plate at the top. I plan to use foam to test it and then maybe some wood and then finally this aluminum.

 

Great build Sir!

This just up my alley



Iv worked with brushless motors for over a year for "non-RC" applications. This homemade electric longboard is what introduced me to DIY side of life I weight 150lbs and can get 27mph out of this little motor (25.2volts and 200A ESC), don't underestimate these little buggers, they'll nock your teeth out.

 

dang this aluminium is tough to mill. I had the feedrate way down to 100mm/min and it chattered the machine to the point of slipping steps and flexing the gantry. I believe 5ipm=127mm/min... so maybe I can try again at 20mm/min but now the v-slot wheels on one part have a little play that can't be taken up by the eccentric spacers... Does this mean the wheel is hosed or the hole is off or the screw is bent or what?

 

I cut some pine with ease and it came out clean and smooth. Go too fast and it chatters. I guess the bit was bouncing like you said. I don't have any other way to mount it except like Robert did with the angle bracket and no bearings but I was trying not to burn out the bearings on the motor. Sigh, guess I can remount it...

 

What about making the mounts out of plexiglass? I think they'll hold together long enough to mill some aluminium replacements...

 

Excellent project build Robert - that is going to be a great little spindle.
Is there any form of locking between the rotor and the shaft or is it just a press fit ?

Tweakie.

 

Are these types of spindles significantly quieter than a trim router? Also, would it be possible to mill Aluminium with this type of spindle if you made light passes?

 

Thanks Robert. Your build looks great. I might replicate it for my OX eventually.

By trim router I meant a hand held router similar to the one kram uses