Do anybody have expirience with RhinoCam and OpenBuild OX with Arduino GShield?

I Work a lot with Rhino... I plan to buy "OpenBuild OX with Arduino GShield"
I don´t know If the G-Code out of RhinoCam work in GBRL Controller??

 

I'll update the resource with yet an other YouTube - a young lad, as some would call teenagers, explains how he melts down the HDPE bottle caps and scraps into nice big sheets to (hand) work into parts (slingshots, it figures eh ?)

I really want to try this now ... Where or where did I put that old countertop oven/toaster ? ? let's see ...

 

hello ...
I am new member
I want to build CNC 1500 x 1500 using the V slot 2060,
for the X axis using double V slot 2060 rigid enough ?
sorry my bad english

 

@Lstj What do you want to cut with your CNC? 1500mm in the X axis will flex for sure

 

@ddman
cut wood...
should be how not to flex ?
or use triple v slot ?

 

@Lstj If you're willing to change the plates design, a C-Beam would be better I think. Some people sandwiched a steel plate between the V-slots, some fastened the V-slots together... at least for wood the stress isn't too bad. You should also check to upgrade the Z axis with a 4th set of wheels and back wheels to minimize the flex on this axis too.

 

I make a quick drawing from the OX router....

I want to buy a kit with 1000mm x 1500mm ...

http://vslot-europe.com/home/118-1500x1000-xtrem-wheel-electronic-kit.html

Like you see on my drawing I make the linear movement for the spindel bigger (1500mm).
I did this because, maybe I want a bigger router in a few years, and its easier and cheaper to replace the rails from 1000mm to 1500mm..Do you think that's a good idea??

 

Do you think its a good idear to make the spindleaxe bigger? sooo spindleaxe will be 1500mm and the lenghts will be 1000mm...

The dimension for from V-Slot OX kit is : spindleaxe 1000mm lenghts is 1500mm

The reason why I do this, because there is not more space in my flat for now!
Maybe later I will have a router with 1500mm x 1500mm when I have more space.

 

for the X axis is wide, whether 1 c-beam better than 2 x 2060 ?

 

Twin cbeam is the way to go over 1500mm.

 

D

Doesn't make any difference really, you will have to replace two profiles either way, unless you plan on using cbeam for the X.

But the y's will be easier to swap out.

 

I ended using a single screw near the center of myOX's 1500mm X axis to keep both length of V-slot parallel. The front one was flexing (slump downward near center of its length) under the weight of the Z-axis and heavy router I use. Those, being somewhat cantilevered (hanging out), tend to want to twist the X beam.

Using back to back C-beam would definitely add to the strength of the X beam. However, unless changed recently, maximum length of C-beam is 1000 mm. The alternative would be to use three lengths of V-slot - adding an horizontal length to the two vertical ones, bolting or otherwise fixing all three into "one" piece. Then the Z assembly plates would need to be adjusted for added height ... and take advantage of it for maybe a 5th set of wheels to make it even sturdier (more stable).

Oddly enough, either my table is slumping near the middle or my X axis is actually slightly bulging upwards as I have a 2 mm or so extra (!) near centre of X length ... Only I could managed that, eh ? Ever noticed how two long flat bed trailers and any long section of bridges have that bent (pre tension) ? When loaded, they flatten ... maybe my subconscience tried it on myOX ???

 

Think they are now doing a 1500mm cbeam. Worth looking into tho as only going off a mention on another thread

 

This is how myOX came to be. The X axis is definitely more involved to change then the Y. The latter is just the rails the OX rides on. It can be as long as you want. It just needs appropriate support to stay nice and straight ... with both being parallel Make your X as wide as you can upfront. I don't think it needs to be any wider than 1500mm as this gives you more than 48" work width, if you ever want to work on a full sheet of something (typically 4'x8'). Just my thinking, for what it's worth.

In fiddling with budget, available lengths of V-slot (no C-beam back then) and available space in my garage, I ended up with a 750mm (Y) x 1500mm (X) OX : myOX. The Y is a single 1500mm length of V-slot cut in two, no precision required as they are just for support.

I now wish I would of went for at least 1000mm for the Y axis. The cost difference would of been minimal and it would allow me to work material 24"x48" in one shot - actually work a good 30" x 50" without taking much more room in garage ... Right now, I can barely get 20" in the Y which proves to be a problem - wasting material often available in precut width of 24". My first sign (check out my build for details, link in my signature) had to be shrunk to 20" width ...

Actually, with the right steppers - more torque and continuously powered, I would actually redo myOX in a wall mounted OX slightly slopped. Then I would only need a fair section of bare wall and minimal depth - maybe 20-24" at most. Like the 'big' saws found at lumber stores - they don't lay flat, they are mounted vertical. Counterweights would probably be needed so the tool end is not affected by gravity ... that part would be new to me. But so was building a CNC machine a year ago.

If you have the machine in your living quarters, make sur you have a very good vacuum to gather the dust and chips. Without one, everything in my garage is covered in dust/chips in no time flat.

 

Yup ... 1500mm C-beam is available : http://openbuildspartstore.com/c-beam-linear-rail/. I should of checked before the 'post reply'. I usually do ... I'll blame it on the medication.

 

Wow serge 2mm is a lot. Most likely in your bed. Easy way to check is put a straight edge over it.

A 3nm will lift 80kg vertically happily on good ballscrews or rack n pinion, so your motors would most likely be fine, it would be the type of actuating drive you'd need to upgrade from belt I would say.

Ahh actually you would need a zero backlash machine otherwise gravity will remove backlash in one direction and you'd need to compensate only in the other. Could be problematic

 

Tell me about it ... It was no big deal when cutting straight through material, aside from wasting the waste board quicker then anyone would want. But when I did a few inlay trials, those 2 mm became ... mountains. I need to find a long straight edge I can trust. I also suspect the table. It is wood, 2x4 and, of all things to use for the top, OSD ... in three sections ! That's what I had on hand at the time. Since I plan on extending my Y, from 750 to at least 1000 mm, I might rebuilt my table as well... At least give it a new top ... one that is flat.

Indeed, belt drive is a no go if done in a vertical / wall mounted configuration. The axis climbing the wall needs to be R&P or ballscrews with minimal or no backlash. The belts will just stretch as they will need to actually cary the weight instead of just moving it around. The relatively good news, with the right slop, one could get away with just converting the Y axis ... It is the easiest to rework.

 

Try this out for a strong and very flat table top:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/video/build-a-torsion-box-assembly-table.aspx
I built one for a magnetic build table for building rc airplane wings and fuselage. I used 3/4" MDF for the whole thing then glued 16ga. metal plate to the top. It's dang near dead flat and weighs a ton, build it in place!

 

I was thinking about one of those, not thinking of adding a sheet of metal on top of it. It looks like a lot of work, starting with getting a flat surface to build the torsion box on and being able to cut the inner pieces perfect. But it would be worth the effort once done. A friend of my dad's, a retired machinist / tool and die maker, mentioned he could get me a thick sheet of steel

Like you point out, that layer of steel makes for a perfect surface to use strong on/off magnets for hold downs. Just add a thin layer of waste board between the work piece and the table surface.

If I mount the thing on a slope against a free wall, it would be a sweet setup indeed ... the magnets would hold things in place ...

Up until now, my easy way out would be to see if my table top is at fault and then see if bolting on some heavy duty corner bar would get it flat ...

The new dining room table has a torsion box top, the legs are actually two sheets of glass... One long down the centre and the other, shorter, near one end. Both slide into the torsion box where mounting slots are built in. The thing is heavy, flat and, as mentioned by the supplier, it won't twist or distort. A solid piece of wood would be way more expensive and would twist over time. You just don't know if it will be days, weeks, months or years. But it will twist or even split.

... So I need to make a sled for my table saw and borrow my father-in-law's planner for a weekend or two ... They are just too expensive for my budget and the little use I have for one, so far.

 

Yes, you need to build it on something flat. I used a 2 3/4" thick solid wood fire door from my jobsite. It did take quite a bit of time but well worth it for straight fuselages. I didn't make mine that thick either, only 3" total thickness. I used a table saw to cut the strips for the interior framework and ran them through a planer as you mentioned. In the end, waiting for the glue to dry took the most time.

 

Seen quite a few using double sided tape to hold their work piece. Just how strong is that ? It certainly looks practical for jobs with lots of cut outs, odd shapes and such ... Then there is the need to remove any glue left on the work surface. If the tape is that strong, how easy is it to remove ?

Vacuum table have their drawbacks as well ... too many openings and it looses suction, right ? Then it also sucks in the dust ? Would need some dust trap and filtering ?

Tabs seem to work around all those problems. I used them when I did the sign with inner cut outs. But one has to clean them out after ... a quick job when the tabs are just enough in number and size to hold things together.

Each job has its challenges and needs, eh ?

I'm just wondering about inertia and such with a counterweight approach, never having seen one used with frequent change of direction at relatively high speeds.

It's just a question of time before we get to see an OX stand up vertically ... I've seen a bull jump a 5' guard at a rodeo, w/out running for it. It just jumped right over and ran into the field. Just about anything is possible once we set our mind to do it. Where there is a will, there is a way.

 

I will move this exchange to my build as I feel I'm starting to crowd this one. See you over at myOX : a 4' x 2' OX...

The short of it : has anyone tried a tough as nail self leveling exposy as these guys did for a large (8'x 17' !) control surface ?

http://www.precisionepoxy.com/TableTopSurfacePlate.htm

Of course, someone will quickly point out they probably have an underlying tension box for a solid/stable base ...

 

i think what you get is a slow machine using counter weights, too fast and those weights will loose tension and you'd get a tug from them.

Standard £200 odd ballscrews from reputable supplier will have around 0.018mm backlash. So you'd need a precision one and they can be 1000's.
On further thought r&p always suffer backlash so they wouldn't be up to it.

Hydraulic actuators with linear encoders would be the cheapest way to do it successfully I recon and quite possibly the reason why you don't see machines like this, got to be a reason for it.

Most likely one is if you pick up one side of any machine the gantries will skew with the weight of the axis, So you would be talking about multiple frames, where each moving part is supported in twice as many places to overcome it, or make it completely vertical.

personally I recon it would be littered with complications.

 

There is plenty of room on the ceiling. Cables and pulleys to each corner of the table, an electric winch to draw it up to the ceiling when not in use.

 

Get your hands on an old electric wheelchair you get two motors with gearboxes that make excellent winches, control unit and a wicked little joystick to control them. Or if your fortunate enough to get one with a lift, they also have electronic actuators which are really useful.

Over here in the uk we have disability organisations that replace these after an amount of time and the old ones go to scrap so you can pick them up dirt cheap.

 

Funny that you mentioned electric wheelchairs, just picked up two this weekend. My son and I are going to build an r/c lawnmower for a winter project. Again, my wife says we are nuts...my response, "we should add a blade to the front and use it to clear snow off the driveway".
At least my son thought it was a good idea.