Hi,

First I want to thank Carl for a great design and all the other people for great ideas in this comment section!

So far I've just ordered all the parts (300x300x390) and am eager to start building in a few weeks!
Took a while to find a good heated bed and by reading the comments it seems like I'm not the only one trying to find a 300x300 mm 24V bed.

At the end I went for a silicone heated bed:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-P...e-Heater-300-x-300MM-24V-300W/1879743629.html

But from the start I wanted to get a kapton heated bed due to its light weight. Did contact a seller about this and figured I might copy/paste his reply in case anyone wants to get one:

"
I have checked with our engineer of factory.
We just have the Kapton Heater at 300mm x300 mm, we just have 12V 400W, the unit price is USD48.80 including China Post shipping that will take around 15-20 days to arrive.
If your prefer 300mmX 300mm 24V 300W, we have to open a new mould for you and the tooling fee will be USD85.00. It will be not cost effective.
Any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Thanks and best regards
Julie
JSR Industries
"

Link to kapton heatbed shop: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/613950

 

I experienced the same thing: I wrapped my hot-block in some extra ceramic insulation (for my rep1's hotend), wrapped that in aluminum foil, then wrapped all that in kapton: I can run my dual 24cmf fans now (looks a lot like yours) at 90% and still maintain hotend temperature:
http://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=3374
Note running them both that high has actually knocked printed bits off the build platform... I tend to run them at 25-50% most of the time now...

 

Good eye Eric, I got the fan type from one of your previous posts.

 

Is there a link to the case you have for the graphical display? I'm only using the MakerFarm Pegasus at the moment, but I got the graphical display vs the standard one that it has as an option, so I need to print a case for it. And if there's a good one for the V-Rail already, I may as well use it.

 

r u talking about this one?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:219024

is the one i used, i thought carl posted but i can't find it. it is probably attchd to a post. the mount isn't included in this one. but worse case i can send it to u.

 

in fact, i found my pivoting frame - I think carl posted it long ago.

 

my first one was not good past the 1/2 way mark - actually the bottom wasn't great either.
that was with 0.4mm nozzle and poor cooling. now i improved the cooling and a few other things.
I tried again with a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.2 and a 0.3 = all failed for one reason or another
nozzle jam, part unstuck, space between lines.
If the hotend stays clear i might get it this time.

what speeds, nozzle, temps, material, slicer r u using?

 

This is the case: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:87250

These are the braces I used to work with the V-Rails: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:223527

 

both of those cases r not the same. my display has 2 buttons on it and a light time adj that is crap but it is accessed via a hole in the front. I replaced the pot with a fixed resistor so now I don't need it.
just pick the right one. The above mount may limit how low ur platform can go. It would mine since I compressed things. So i need to use the pivoting one.

 

Ok, well good to know the case and the mounts are separate. My display has the following in this order: Speaker, Button, Encoder, Button. Looks like the one in the main C-Bot photo above near as I can tell. But I'll figure out the right case to print and use one of these mounts with it. The Pegasus has a top cross member that I'll attach the mount to. Similar to where the stock one would mount.

It also doesn't have a fan to cool the part (only one on the heat sink), and I'm trying to decide if I should add one or not. I'm not entirely sure I understand the purpose of the fan and whether it would help print the parts I want to print. I have designed a part that prints an M5 nut hole at a 80 degree angle, and when I set my extruder temp to 225 (for pla), the hole was very droopy. I then dropped the temp down to 205, and it prints nice and clean. I'm guessing that a higher temp would probably work if I had a cooling fan working in conjunction. Is this right? Is it better to have higher temp and a fan vs lower temp and no fan?

So many things I'm trying to catch up on. And I want to understand all these trade-offs before I start ordering parts for a C-Bot 12x12x20.

EDIT: ruggbs link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:219024 which is for my case, so I'll go with this and I found the adjustable frame for V-slot remix from above http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:401244. I'm guessing that's the one Carl mentioned. Should be good to go. Thanks all.

 

I have all of my parts together except for something to actually control the whole thing. I talked myself into getting a smoothieboard but $100 is the most I would want to spend on a control board and the $99 3x smoothies are sold out. My plan was to add an additional A4982 IC to get 4 drivers.

Does anyone want to weigh in with an opinion on ramps, rumba,smoothie, or even smoothie clones and which seems to work best?

 

using ur 0.12 settings I got this Benchy

I'm still working on 3D Hacker - it keeps coming loose, I need to add a brim to it

 

New print post: Cranked out a 500mm / 19" tall scan of myself I had done (to test the scanner tech). Turned out pretty good!
http://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=3456

 

That's pretty sweet.

 

That print looks amazing Eric, now we can see why you went with such a tall printer height!

I had an assembly question, I put together my corexy bar and print carriage and connected all belts but how tight should the belts be? Before the belts went on, the corexy bar and printhead would slide back and forth smoothly but with the belts on they are much harder to move by hand. Is there such a thing as too tight for the belts?

 

Thanks everyone

@Mark Carew : Other than some mods made to the z-stepper brackets (done by @sheffdog , and I believe posted in this thread), its all the same hardware, other than longer extrusions.

@Carl Feniak : No problems printing that res: I did some simple maths: If a .4mm nozzle will do .1 layer heights (high-res for it), then a .6mm nozzle should do .15 layer heights. No issues. I did that pose on purpose at time of scan, thinking I may print it in the future. They did do some cleanup, but the mesh they provided had weird anomonilies sticking off it in places I had to cleanup in meshmixer.

 

Hi all.

This thread/build discussion has really inspired me. (currently on page 24). I own a Wanhao Di3 at the moment, and while it's great for the money, it leaves a lot to be desired. Rather than spend more money shoe-horning the machine to be somewhat reliable, I thought my money would be better spent on an own-built printer.

Carl, i really like the design ethic of keeping everything clean and obscured. It'll definitely fly better with the SO as the printer gets ordered in batches under her nose .

My plan is to convert all your 123DX models to solidworks-compatible equivalents so I've got a build reference for the future and can plan my parts meticulously prior to purchase. Also helps with mods in the future which I'm a big advocate of.

Not sure if you'd like the models uploading when I'm done with them at all? Certainly isn't very hacker-friendly, but I'd like to be able to give something back.

Austin

 

That print is really lacking a DOG. You need to have a dog scanned and by your feet. That would make it about perfect.

 

I personally think all the STL's and design files should be in file type categorised zip files; yes. STEP file format is very universal throughout modelling packages and wouldn't go amiss. I've done quite a few of the conversions from the 123DX files myself. I'll up those with the solidworks files when i'm done in due course.

A few of your models have some "hidden" faces that get picked up when converting to SLDPRT's. I remember someone mentioning in a much older post that the STL's need to be carved in your slicer to sit flat on the print bed. These faces, or extrusions might be the culprit!

 

The other bit that would prove useful is a document describing the remix and it's reasoning. Meaning, it's not really clear what the remixes are fixing with the original design without reading the entire thread. And even now, I don't recall exactly and would have to go back through the thread to refresh my memory. Something like, "use this remix if...".