Fun toy, but with the knees and shoulders so far forward a REALITY machine response would be to flip him over and have a 100 MPH free fall "wind" fold him up into the fetal position.
{it happens}

 

that things mental

 

I liked this one:

 

For Dewalt 611 users;
It is a bit smaller in diameter than the Bosch Colt that the mount was designed for, the front clamp of that mount CAN be screwed in far enough to "bite down" on the 611 body, but ...probably not "best practice".
I have seen a couple of comments that some folk have shimmed just the sides - which also feels makeshift and probably squeezes the router body.
My solution may be imperfect, but I think it is closer (close enough).

I know, not every builder is in the USA, so this may be local.
I have some left over "trim coil", it is the sheet aluminum that vinyl siding companies use to wrap wooden window frames and various other flashing. I don't suggest that anyone buy a 50 ft roll of this, but you may be able to scrounge some.
I cut two 1 inch wide strips, one 8 1/2 inches long, the other 8 5/8. The short one wraps around the router body with about a 1/16 inch gap between the ends, the long one wraps around that. Offset the gaps 180 degrees if you want to be fussy about it.
To get them around the router and into the mount I used a 3 inch worm drive hose clamp on about 1/2 of the strips' width, once started put the front clamp on, snugged it and removed the hose clamp, worked it down to center the strip in the mount, aligned everything and final tightened the clamp.
It is a TIGHT FIT, but the router can still be moved if the clamp is slackened off a bit.
I don't think I could have done it without the hose clamp and would probably have sliced a finger or two if I had tried (-:

Not sure of the thickness, I just searched for it and the cheapest version at Lowes is spec'd at 0.017"
I had bought mine at Home Despot nearly 10 years ago - to line/insulate a trailer roof.

 

My dewalt is 69 mm and fits the mount perfect but its quite a bit more expensive i think, i can only justify paying the extra because i'll be using it with the extra bits and bobs that came with it when not on the cnc machine.

 

Messing with photo v carve at the moment with m.d.f i need to play with settings to get a clearer image though, if i get it working ok i'll post a picture of the result, i'm glad i purchased an 8 x 4 of m.d.f its good for scrap bits for practicing!

 

My "shim" for the Makita was made of 3" 3/8 wall aluminium stock turned to suit and a slot cut in it to allow it to compress (split ring)

 

Has anyone had any good experience with photo v carve? seems i'm not the only one trying! because there are so many variables involved its not easy.

 

Hello I'm just starting my build, could anyone point me to a sketch-up file of the completed machine?
I've looked through all the site and don't seem to be able to locate it.
thanks.

 

I just measured it, 17 or 18 thou (with paint on both sides).
I figure I made up about 70 thou on diameter, close enough.
I have FEET of this stuff available to anyone who wants it (-:
Trouble is dollars shipping vs pennies value.

There is almost certainly similar thickness flashing available in more suitable sizes, e.g. step flashing.
Beer cans are too thin and not long enough to get 8 1/2 inch strips out of - although the Fosters cans might be....
Hmm, I need to go out for a grocery run.

I'll be back.
later, MUCH later.

 

Cut the cans in a spiral pattern and I bet the strips will be over 8.5" (won't help on thickness though).

Thurmond

 

I just got one of these;
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-jaw-capacity-drill-press-vise-30999.html
to mount directly on the Y-axis plate.
Other than the one I got is blue.

Barely higher than the two layers of MDF - to the bed of it anyway.
The jaws and everything fit easily under the Z-axis router carrier.
There are the 6 low profile screw heads to consider, I'll almost certainly add a 1/8 inch plate
for them to poke through.
The 3/8 bolt heads should clear the sides of the Y-axis beam.
The handle will have to be held up somehow, or it could flop into the Y-axis lead screw channel.

Here we go - now I'll have to get some parallels and "make like a machinist" trying to level things.
Time to see if I can get top and bottom faces to come out parallel when I have to flip the material.

I'm about done with milling pink foam insulation, trial pieces are coming out to size quite accurately - allowing for the fact that I program for a 1 mm diameter cutter, but use a 6 mm one.
It was deliberate, I wanted it to go into ALL the holes and not insist that I change to drills.
GREAT ! - the outside dimensions are 5 mm under size and inside pocket dimensions are 5 mm over.

Note to self; The additional weight MAY need lower acceleration setting, so look into how to do that.

 

I'm still playing with m.d.f, great fun lol

 

Thanks Mark, it did seem to make a bit of difference, can't tell though for the noise of the router and hoover

 

so far so good, haven't decided what to do about clearance if redo end stops to keep Z height or lift table up a tad, or just leave it at this travel.

 

apologies, fixed.

 

Hey guys
I'm Jules and I built an augmented cbeam machine instead of 500 X 500 i decided to build it 500 X 1000. I'm using the x pro v2 controler, and having trouble finding a post processor in the Photo Vcarve. I have had success with the browser based cad cam program Easel. I noticed that the files from Easel end with the extension .nc, so I tried all the post processors that use that ext. and it doesn't seem to work. If anybody has run into this I'd love some help.

 

An "Interesting" amount of weight you have there.
Have you found it necessary to lower the Y-axis acceleration to avoid skipping of steps ?
If not I won't try to mess with mine, that anvil must out weigh my vice (vise ?) by a LOT !

 

nope, in fact the opposite , it can go even faster than stock. i just have tuned the motors yet since the weight is all carried by the linear rails, so its much less likely to skip, also since its a lot more rigid that helps too.

 

I agree that the weight is CARRIED by the rails and I like that - I was thinking more of the INERTIA that it represents.
More "m" means less "a" for any given "f".
If it was 80 tons sitting there - betcha it would skip, wherever the weight is being carried (-:

 

yeah if it was 80 tonnes, first thing on my mind would be the Y skipping.

as it is though its fine, i don't really plan to run it with an anvil, its just for visualisation for the video since its hard to show the forces while cutting, and that there is no Y deflection, hence it being on the outer edge and the problem i was looking to fix.

 

Got our C-Beam machine built. Just spoiler board and electronics left to do.

 

Hello Ryan, just got my machine built as well, the purple bits were printed on one of your Oozenest 3D printers.
We don't have imperial MDF here in France, so I've opted for 16mm base and a 10mm spoiler.

 

I just used the g code inch and it seems to be working.