There was something mentioned about a setting that buffered the code sending to the tinyG which was supposed to help with large files. I had a file that was 50k+ that had an issue. But a tidy 35k was ok

 

I thought about it, but didn't want to deal with the whole issue of pump, collection tray, screen, etc.
Not least of which is the Y-axis lead screw channel, shielding details to keep the wash out of there - and drain it when things go awry, not IF but WHEN.
Full flood would be needed to blast chips away and that is more than I want to take on (for now).

 

Unfortunately I've been slammed and haven't had time to fab the plates needed. But I have it on the list to rig up a vacuum system to remove chips. Should get them out of the way well enough.

Something like this: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20265&d=1153782845

 

Its alive !!! it needs the waste board bolting down in the centre - The DM542 setup had thrown me, grbl set to 200 steps, stepper is 200 steps the DM542 starts at 400 steps / rev now I couldn't get my head around this then it all fell into place - 200 steps X 8 microsteps = 1600 steps/rev on the DM542

All setup and calibrated on the 2nd try and working fine apart from the waste board issue, X axis screw does have a fair bit of wobble but it doesn't lose any tolerance across 820mm

 

This weekend I was building up my Plate Maker. I chose the 24V version of the power supply, SKU 945 on the parts store. The back of my supply doesn't have the tapped holes to mount it as shown at 1:38:25 in the build video. Anyone else have the same? I could remove the electronics and drill and tap holes to match the picture in the video. Does someone have the dimensional locations of the 4 holes?

Edit...
Looks like they mounted the heat sinks directly to the back. I'm sure I could get it apart but I'd prefer not to mess with that. Might make more sense to find an alternate way to mount it.

Bob

 

One is Milescraft 2211 1/4-Inch Long Reach Router Bit for Sign Making, a 2 3/8" overall length. It is still at about 10$cnd with a free shipping offer from Amazon.ca when total Amazon order is at least 25$cnd. It should be available from Amazon.com ...

 

Thanks Serge. I had missed that one when I did my Amazon search.

 

Amazon.ca sometimes has better deals, like in this case. Best of all, I didn't have to pay tunnel toll (nearly 10$) or taxes (13%) or UPS Store fee (5$us/package) ... or diner and shopping if the wife comes along for the ride. Amazon.ca seems to have less items, of what I look for, than Amazon.com though. Deals like this one are quite rare. But it is worth checking both sites before buying, not forgetting others like eBay, etc.

Eh, don't forget there was a time where the Canadian dollar was worth (slightly) more than the US dollar. We had access to the US buying power (volume from 10 times the population), thus low prices, at a further discount. Now those were the days ...

 

I also found this bit...

• Cutting Diameter: 1/4" ; Cutting Length: 1"
• Shank Diameter: 1/4" ; Overall Length: 2-1/2"
• Premium Quality Carbide Industrial CNC Router Bit

$14.95 US

http://www.amazon.com/Yonico-36314-SC-Router-Helix-Reach/dp/B00V7AR44C



I need to cut some 1.5 inch aluminum stock. I'm modifying the plate to give some extra depth. Also it looks like you can gain about 1/4" by moving the Z axis C-Beam up a little. Instead of mounting the Z axis V-Slot Gantry Plate flush with the end of the C-Beam, I think it could be moved up about 1/4 inch, so that the C-Beam End Mount is flush with the Gantry Plate. Haven't tried this yet. I'm forgetting but someone else may have already mentioned this in this thread.

 

Sometimes we want to use the CNC machine as a drill rather than a mill. Has anyone had success with finding a mini chuck adaptor that will fit?

I found this but the 1/4" hex shanks will not fit on the Bosh Colt...
TEMO Keyless Chuck Adaptor 1/4" HEX SHANK to Conventional or Micro-size Drill bit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HAA22U



Also found this...
Edit: looking at the reviews for this it is unacceptable quality.
Gyros 45-01819 Adaptor Chuck Set, 0-Inch to 094-Inch Capacity
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD2N4



The other thought is to have a full collet set for the Bosh Colt that goes from 0 to 0.25", with each collet handling a range of drill bits. Haven't seen that yet.

A mini chuck would be nice because one size could fit a wide range of bits.

 

I did post a page or so back the pin chuck i use is a expo/Unimat pin chuck what has 1/4" shank (expo 12806)

 

Completed the electronics on our C-Beam machine today. She is running well. Just got to use the OX to make some insets on the spoiler board for some wood Tee-nuts to go into. Hopefully will be cutting by the end of the week.

Most of the parts used to mount the electronics are 3d printed. I have attached all the STL's.

 

Ah perfect! Thanks Flash.

 

Just put some limit switches and cable ties on my C-beam, they are working very well, I've put all the details in the resources.

 

Hi all, my first post here. I'm in the middle of building my C-beam. The MKS SBase board arrive the other day & managed a quick test hook up to a stepper motor. All seems ok. I'm still undecided on the router/spindle to use. I'm hoping to be milling alu / acrylic / mdf as well as doing pcb engraving. I will need something that can take 1/4" down to 1/8" bits. I'm based in the UK (Brighton) so machines like the Colt aren't an option. After hours of research I'm down to a toss up between a Makita RT0700CX4 with an 1/8" collet from Elair in the USA or taking a punt on an 800w/1.5kw air-cooled chinese spindle with an ER11 collet. The Makita weighs in around 1.8kg I think & the 800w spindle around 2.4kg. The 1.5Kw is the same price as the 800w but I'm not sure how much heavier. Will the C-beam cope with the extra weight ? I'm slightly concerned that if I go for the Makita I'm reliant on one company to supply the custom collets. This is my first foray into the cnc world so any advice appreciated.

 

I haven't found any 1/8 collet for my Makita... Now I use a 1.5kW watercooled er11 spindle

 

I run a Makita RT0700CX4 no point in importing one as you can get them in the uk with uk warranty, correct voltage and no import duty/vat Edit. Mis read the post

the 1/8 collet I run is from a die grinder cost me £6 off ebay (took 3 attempts to find the right one)

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-rt0700cx4-router-laminate-trimmer-with-trimmer-guide-240v-p63809

no problem with toolstop, used the 5 times this year

 

How are you getting on with the spindle? Any issues? Would you buy the same again?

 

Had a quick look on eBay but couldn't see any collets - do you have a link?
The collets I were looking at are here Elaire Corporation I've emailed them to see if they work with the CX4 but haven't had a reply yet.

 

Hey Guys,

With Christmas coming up, I'm budgeting out to build one of these. I had a few questions I was hoping you guys would share your opinions on specific to the C-Beam Machine:

1. Given the smaller size of it, are there any real benefits to going with a 24v v.s. 12v power supply?
2. What is the minimum size power supply size needed in either flavor? As far as I can tell, if using a router it's only powering the 3 steppers and controller board.

Thanks!

- Chris

 

24v supply is the better option as it supply's the motors with a higher voltage and current than 12V, giving the motors more torque (turning force)

i have a Meanwell NES-350-24 (350w 14.6A @24v) that gives you plenty of over head

sorry i can remember which collet it was out of the 3, iirc it ER spec collet, i will measure it up when i get down the workshop

 

Correct, it is only powering the 3 axis motors and whatever control board you use.
The additional advantage of 24 Volts over 12 is that it provides more power to those motors - as to whether or not that is a good thing may be debatable.
It enables higher cutting speeds, i.e. more force can be applied to push the tool into the material and of course accelerate away from the material face faster when retracting - this could be important for "production" work IF speed is important.
IMO these are NOT production machines, they are prototyping tools for hobby or prototype model building - PLATE MAKER probably describes it well enough.
Any time "savings" from faster X, Y and Z moves are unlikely - in much the same way that high horse power cars are no faster in city traffic than economy cars, the economy car never reaches its maximum speed in the city, more power is useless - in fact bicycles are a LOT faster, but I digress.

 

The only problems I could see is that they work on 220V and not everyone has 220 available in their workshop and that you have to build yourself a watercooling unit. Otherwise my controller came pre-programmed so no problem with that. I barely get over 1 amps of power consuption (220W) while cutting... so power won't be a problem

 

Over the pond here in the uk all domestic electric supplys are 220-240v @ 50hz, 230v is the norm and 3 phase is 415v (not found in homes that often)

220v is not a issue as long as the electronics are good quality

 

@lidders Its not a ER I was thinking of my manual Mill Its called a collet cone I can't seem to find the one I got on ebay anymore

you can get a basic 1/4 to 1/8 (6.35 to 3.175) adapter like the Trend CLT/SLV/3263 Collet sleeve 3.2mm to 6.35mm

 

Thanks R.B. So if I stick with 12V, is a 10amp PS enough to comfortably drive the steppers or do I need bigger? Hopping to just use an ATX one I have laying around to save $.

Thanks!