Maybe it's my english (I'm french)

Yesterday I measured my x axis movement. I was asking a 100mm movement (G0 x100, from 0), but it moved 102mm. I went into the "motor tuning" page and lowered the "step per" value. I moved the x axis again (G0 x0, from previous position; 100) and it moved 101mm. I lowered the "step per" value again and it moved 100mm when I ask 100mm, axis tuned!

 

"I knew it was the port settings I just forgot that I knew!"
Yah right, let's go with that. Thanks for your help.

 

There is an even easier method when using Mach 3. Take a look at the picture in this link: http://cdn.instructables.com/FSP/SMKF/HMMFDPWS/FSPSMKFHMMFDPWS.MEDIUM.jpg

Go to the "Settings tab" and click "Set steps per unit". It will ask you in what axis to calibrate, and how far you want to move the axis. Once that is done, it will jog the machine the distance you set. Then Mach will ask you to measure how far the mill actually moved. Once you put that value in, it will adjust your steps per inch/mm.

Good luck!

 

Using the hobbycnc pro 4 axis? How do you like it so far?
I just ordered one myself. I have the EZ driver from hobbycnc right now, that I use on my small desktop mill.

 

I ordered all the hardware yesterday for an 1000X1500 footprint OX! Protodrake has a lot lower stock now Does anyone have any idea if I'll have to modify something of the design for this bigger OX? I also bought a Makita 3709 (3/4HP, 30K RPM, 4A, 1/4" shaft). Do you think that this router will be powerful enough to cut aluminium? Do you know if there is an adapter to reduce from 1/4" to 1/8" end mill diameter?

Thank you!

 

I think it will be plenty powerful. I also have that size machine on order

 

there is some good pictures of the OX on this ebay page...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/THE-OX-MAX-...ies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item51ba3c5980

Is this seller someone here?

 

I was looking at upgrading my Routy to an OX which seems pretty straight forward. I keep running into issue with the DXF files for the plates. I have sent them to a few local machine shop and they are all mentioning that they can't cut them because the circles are polylines and not radii. Any idea on the best way to fix this?

 

Yep, its me. Colin.

The end plate pics are there to show all how good this machine really is, I don't have the space to test a machine here and I did not spot the XO!

My machine is different, as usual, the gantry plates are 3mm mild steel powder coated and very, very rigid, but really heavy, and they can be doubled up to form 6mm or split to provide balanced rail support. The split plate design has been very popular with clients.

 

Awesome! Thanks kram

 

Can you elaborate on the split design for the plate s? I was toying with the idea of using mild steel. How much heavier do you think the steel is than aluminum plates? Concerns about v wheels deforming?

 

Hey Kram,
I was having the same issue with some shops inquiring about the polygon issue as well.
Also, the new files you just posted aren't true circles either, also made up of polylines.

 

Hey Kram,
Thanks for the files, just looked at the new DXF and still rocking polylines...

 

I've been messing around with the dxf in autocad for about an hour, and have been trying to convert to polylines, and then creating a circle from them. No luck. I've read that Sketchup does not draw true circles. They are also drawn in line segments, so I doubt Sketchup will be able to export true circles.

Should I take one for the team and re draw them in autocad?

P.S. Where can I find the 3mm pitch pulleys? Unless you guys are going to be stocking them soon..

 

Opened her up quick before bed time, it sort of worked... still some post processing needed to be done though.

Attached screen grab of what a close up circle looks like. Its weird too, the very edges of the parts still appear to be line segments, unlike the holes which now have both a true circle and a polygon (see attached). I can manually re draw the corners though.

I can try to clean the rest up tomorrow night if someone doesn't beat me to it.

 

2 is more or less the same as the first one you posted. 3 doesn't work.

However, I did finished cleaning up the main side plates. Rest is for tomorrow

 

Here are some pictures, one side shows double 3mm plates, the other the split plate design. My reference to the mild steel being heavy was meant in comparison to aluminium. A double plate weighs 1.6Kg, perhaps somebody else could state what the weight of a 6mm aluminium plate is to compare the two different materials?

I don't think there is much chance of deformity, especially using the solid v-wheels.

 

The 6mm Aluminium plates I have weighs ~568g each.

 

The double lines were still there