Okay, my friend Tim is slightly crazy but cool . We have just modified the design to have a build area of 600mm x 600mm x 880mm. That's big enough. Her is a new pic !!
Ok, added the legs and stuff. Pretty much done on design for now. Hopefully we will start putting everything together next week !!!!
Added some more support feet, Simplified belt path so we could find a closed loop GT2 belt. Moved Z motors to act as tensioners. Added box Rumba and 12864 Screen. Added Spool holders , glass bed clips and Name Plate
The construction has started. This is going to be a monster. The wood that it is sitting on is 48" square.
This is HUGE! @Steven Bloom Wow I think if you go taller you could print a life size person, as it is you could if they were in the sitting position This is going to be a fun Build to follow keep up the great work.
My friend Tim said as soon as you have the beams and screws in 2meter lengths, we will upgrade !!! Thanks Steven
A new pic of the bottom of the printer. As you can see the 26" square glass will go right in the middle. Also the bearing supports are in for the 1 meter screws.
Very nice. Well we are getting it together for 1 meter. We can always change out the supports to go higher. But we need it to get working first
for bigger dimensions you will need bigger lead screws. in my case, after doing some math, i decided trapezoidal metric, 16mm diameter, will do the trick. four of them, to be more precise. got mines from roton, 60 inch uncut, about 40 bucks a pop. the nuts are acetil, also from roton. anything else you can get from openbuilds for that size.
Steven, I am curious: why did you go with the solution of using a 3 axis extruder and a fixed platform?
Speed. We will have hardly any weight to move. The platform is fixed so it will be perfectly level. All we have to move is a little bit of weight. That allows the hot ends to move faster especially with a bowden setup.
Last night the mini carriages were put on the vertical beams to hold the Y axis. We also started setting up the lead screw with the nut block. Also most if the legs are printed out now
Indeed, this is where our designs part away. I went with the inversed z solution because my extruder is 2 lbs. in weight, obviously not Bowden. Having it on a rail flying around would increase inertial forces, therefore jerk movement. On the other hand, a Bowden is hard to use in a big printer, due to the relatively long travel distances of the extruder, although one could think of some solutions.
We are going to attach the extruder to the middle of the Y rail. This way it will be the least amount of travel possible
Found the E3D holders on Thingiverse . Combined two of them with a plate and then put in a top holder for wires and another 19mm holder for a proximity switch. It has holes in the perfect position to mount on a Universal Gantry Plate. The STL is included.
Hi Steve, Awesome build buddy! One small question, will such a large piece of glass lay flat? I suspect it may bow without any support in the middle. A single 20x20 would preclude that problem, I think. I could be all wet too. You are the one there looking at it. Cheer's! Larry
good question. I guess normal glass could bow but Tim ordered very thick glass. I cant remember the brand but it is capable of much higher heats. It is also 1/4" thick. So I don't think it will bow. We actually cant put anything in the middle, because the silicon heat bed glues on to the bottom of the glass. Thanks Steven
Great! I've been off line for several days, family obligations, so catching up this morning has been great. Seeing this build is really getting my urge to build going again, but then again I have those Christmas presents (a mini-mill and a lathe) to play with.......
Hi Steven, Sometimes, I think building a large printer is a curse in disguise, but I only have me to blame for that. Glad to hear you could find your borosilicate glass for the 600x600 mm intended area. Been researching left and right for one myself, but at the dimensions I need, 1332x1170 mm, I managed to scare pretty much all the suppliers. Thickness is another issue, I am still undecided between 10 mm and 12 mm, but this only adds to the aforementioned curse. In Canada, such a glass would set me back anywhere from 3000 to 6000 bucks, and probably a whole year of sleeping on the couch if wifey found out. Luckily, there's China, Hong Kong to be more exact, where a 12 mm glass costs only 600 bucks. I am also toying with the idea of using a tempered glass, and use its slight, inherent bowing due to fabrication, to bring it back flat, by clamping it down at the edges of the heated platform. You mention the silicone pad sticking to the bottom of the glass. I wonder if the same would happen to me, seeing how my pad is considerably larger, and capable of 4000 watt at 110v, or 8000 watt at 220. I am asking this because I haven't got to that part yet, and I am trying to figure out all the glitches before the slap me in the face. Thank you in advance for your advice.
Fundamental engineering question Steve - have you measured the stairwell? Will you be able to get this out of the room it's built in, or is it a stationary fixture in the room?