that is a splendid piece of machinery.
people are also making DIY metal 3d printers with lasers and nema based actuators. not as accurate as a galvo though.
thank you for the link.

 

Sure,

Nice, thanks!

Which switches did you get? I ended up grabbing a variety of them, Keyes, YL 99, MakerBot 1.2 and have a bunch of generic mini switches from other projects. I noticed that the YL 99 and MakerBot 1.2 are both normally open switches. I modified the YL 99 to be normally closed, might do the same on the MakerBot 1.2. Have not tried the Keyes type yet...

Looking forward to hearing how the direct feeder extruder works out. The design looks simple enough, have not added it to the generator yet, FRC consumes my free time and probably will do so until March... Oh and I am going to abaddon the thingiverse customizer. The code is already a jumbled mess because the customizer doesn't import files... So when I get back to coding, I am going to split this up, clean it up and start adding more options. If anyone has any requests, let me know, will add it in.

 

Sure thing, what would you like to have? What format would you like, anything openscad supports of course.

 

Yeah, gapped out the whole conversion thing.... Will send as a step file

What parts / options would you like?

If you want, hit me up on email.

[email protected]

 

Hi Carl, this might be what you're doing already but any chance you can post up the assembly as a step file?

I'm planning on building one soon, and would like to make sure I'm ordering all the right stuff and potentially make some mods...

Cheers!

 

Is anyone using something other than a 8mm 4 start (8mm pitch) lead screw? I'm trying to chase one down with a 2mm or 4mm pitch for a bit more accuracy and resolution in Z, but I can't seem to find a screw and matching brass nut for less than a million bucks...

Or am I trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist, and 8mm pitch screws are fine?

 

I've been having pretty good stability and accuracy printing as small as 0.1mm. The 8mm lead screws seem to work fine. I'm not sure if anyone is trying to print finer than that.

 

try roton.

I purchased from them two pairs of trapezoidal 16x3 mm pitch, single start, 60 inch long.
you might have trouble finding 2 mm pitch screws. most companies, I'm told, need special tooling to produce that, which is only profitable for them for large orders. the screws from roton had the smallest pitch (3 mm) for the given diameter, even if other companies had smaller pitch posted in their catalogues, but for the reason described above, they were unable to honor my minuscule order of only 4 screws.
another name that comes to mind is nook industries.
good luck.

p.s.
nuts should come from the same manufacturer, for tooling reasons.
good news is, most respected manufacturers also provide matching nuts to those screws. you should have no problem whatsoever to buy a pair.

 

can i scale to to have a 500*600mm heat bed whit to much problem

 

Looks good, nice and clean.

 

If you think that's clean, you should check out the wiring diagram.

 

Chasing something around 500mm I think unfortunately. Also planning on using the single Z motor, 2 lead screw variant, which I'll gear down a bit.

Based on lack and availability and cost (being in Australia limits my options a bit) I think I'll just have to go with the standard 8mm option. Cheers for the help!

BTW, what were my chances of getting a step file of the assembly?

 

Touche sir.

I ordered a bunch of shielded cable from McMaster, overdid it a bit on the gauge and ended up with some massive cables... On the plus side I can run 10 amps to the steppers.... Ha!

 

im building a 600mmx600mm build plate version [still deciding on exact height] and this is pretty much the checklist ive made too!!

 

I knew it! My contraption would fail at any beauty contest with flying colors..
Pics taken earlier afternoon.

 

that thing is HUGE MAN!!

 

I thought you might all get a kick of out of this-- when things go catastrophically wrong. I was printing a HeaterMeter case on my C-Bot in PETG and everything is looking beautiful and perfect, less than an hour to go. From this point, in my mind, there is absolutely nothing that can go wrong with this print, so I will go run some errands and come back to a perfectly print. I was not prepared to see this when I got home:



Not only did the print get shifted off, and the glass build plate get moved around (which isn't easy), the IR height sensor from the front of the carriage was ripped off, and the cooling fan from the back of the carriage was ripped off. The cooling fan, it didn't come apart at the connector, or come apart where the wires are soldered to the fan, it sheared the wires off. I can only imagine how much force it takes to pull on the pair of wires to make them break.


That's when I noticed this other bit of force-exerted-improperly


The heatbreak of the E3D V6 hotend is just bent all out of whack. I removed it and tried bending it back straight with a pair of pliers but it is pretty tough material so something must have happened with furious anger to make this happen. I've spent a solid 20 minutes staring at the C-Bot and can't figure out how this could have happened. All steppers work in every direction, no unexpected resistance, no problem. The hotend temperature and heater are working A-OK. My steppers run really cool at just 0.75A (rated for 1.5A) so I can't see them overheating. It is just mind boggling.

As a side note, does anyone know of an good knockoff E3D hotbreaks? All those I see on eBay don't look like what I have, either one of the thread diameters is wrong, or the interior portion doesn't have the right profile. It's $22 for an official new little piece of metal from filastruder.

 

indeed.
M542T, 5 amps.

 

I've had this happen on petg prints as well. After reviewing the video and based on other experience monitoring petg prints I found the following.

In most of my failed prints, I had build up which would eventually blob onto the print and then cool. Petg being very strong meant that depending on where the blob was, I was creating a massive lip / catch for the hotend. This resulted in the bed being pushed around, poppin the X carriage off the 5mm nuts on my prusa, kicking the glass plate off the bed, etc.... The behavior was almost exactly like you discussed.

The cause for the build up was numerous.
* Stringing: Not enough retraction, heat too high, jerk settings not correct, bowden, etc....
* Too little filament deposited: Dialing in the filament diameter, found it required to dial it in roll by roll. Same manufacturer had a .1 variance between rolls.
* Too much filament deposited: See above.
* Manufacturer: I've got petg from different companies and some string more than others, though they are all prone to stringing.
* Print settings: Not enough / Too much overlap between infill and perimeters. Print too fast / too slow. etc...

I've also had some minor curling, but resolved this by removing the 2nd nozzle of my chimera or use of a fan or turning off the fan accordingly.

All in all, I've found petg to be touchy, but it's my go to filament. Once it's dialed in, it's great. Getting there can be expensive though...

 

wow, that looks like the texas chainsaw massacre of 3d printing..