Annealed just means that when produced, it was slowly cooled, so that no stresses are left in the material at lower than annealing temp. I'd much rather glass that is stated as annealed, rather than picture frame, or what i was using before... IKEA mirror tiles...

Like i said, borosilicate is extortionately expensive in the UK. Especially when i can get 5 of the panes i just bought for £15 ($22~).

Just heated up to 100DegC, and no issues as expected

 

glad to hear the glass was up to it.
regarding borosilicate, you might want to try aliexpress.
found a good price (300 usd) for a 1332x1270 mm sheet, 12 mm thick.
i'd figure smaller and thinner sheets would cost much less.

 

Carl-

Do you know what problems he had with the braided line? Just curious. We got a few Fusion3 F306 printers at work ( Core xy with some sort of braided line for XY movement and a belt with triple leadscrews for Y). I was concerned with the line and how it crosses in the back but they are holding up well. One has been in my office for a few months now and now I'm planning on building something similar so I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the different Core XY implementations before I start a build (probably Adams triple C).

 

Tried this out because why not.
I was watching videos of the Form2 and wanted to see if the inverted bed setup worked

 

Now I've got >24hr printing with each of my two extruders. I thought I'd release the STL's.

Probably not a lot of use to most, as the main goal of the design was to use parts I had lying around, and usually have in decent quantities (heat set inserts are brilliant additions to printed mechanical parts with fasteners).

V/T-slot bowden extruder by austingeorge

 

Thanks Carl.

 

I am starting a design based on this. Is there any reason why I should not print all the parts using HIPS ?? I've been using HIPS for other structural parts because, for me, it's much easier to print than ABS - however - before I dive into MANY hours of printing time with all the parts I will need I figured someone here can quickly say yes/no about this.

 

Carl,
Thanks for the reply! I will get some PETG and see what it's like. From what I've read about PETG, I may abandon my HIPS idea (even though I already have many spools of it) and use PETG instead.

 

+1 for PETG.

I and quite a few others printed our parts using it, and it's very strong.

 

(Modified repost of mine from the "3D Printer Tips, Tricks and Reviews" Google Group), thought maybe I'd get more traction\info here:

----
Having a problem with Marlin not wanting to print "fast" :

I've been using my c-bot for about 3/4 of a year now with a big fat volcano nozzles strapped to it, which has kept my print speeds under 60mm/sec.
Mainboard is a Rumba with DRV8825's, and the firmware is Marlin, slice with Simplify3D, print from my SD.

I recently put in a .4mm nozzle to see how the machine would do at a 'higher resolution' & 'faster speeds' : I did some 2cm calibration cubes at 90mm\sec that did fine, and when I pushed it up to 120 mm\sec, there was all sorts of stuttering going on with the brim, so I killed the print. Which is weird, because my Replicator1 with Sailfish does just fine at 120mm\sec (I realize I'm comparing apples and oranges). So I decided to just go with the 90mm\sec for the time being since multiple calibration cubes at that speed did fine.

Started printing out all the parts for a quad-copter frame @200 micron (filling my 12x12" build plate, quite a bit of data per layer), first couple solid layers were printing out just fine. Came back an hour later, and everything had shifted right about 1/8".

I do a lot of printing on this machine, and haven't had any sort of shifting like this before, so I'm wondering if it has to do with the speed? Is something not "keeping up" with the gcode, and it's dropping data?
I'm going to drop it back to 60mm\sec and try the print again.

But regardless, how can I get this thing to print faster? I did the Rumba\Marlin combo just a "safe" intro to building my new printer, and would love to keep that for the time being. But I'm welcome to other hardware\firmware options as well (do have a spare Due laying around).
----

And to this community, it'd be interesting to know what mainboard\firmware combo's people are using?
Note: I'm now re-printing at 60mm\sec, and no shifting is showing up.

 

Could a motor have skipped? Do you have the motor currents high enough?

 

I've tuned the motor currents with my voltmeter, and done 79 hour prints with the volcano with no symptoms like this, so I don't think that's it. I can re-check them, and possibly push them up a bit more as well to see if that has any impact.

 

HA, sooooo...
I just killed my Rumba trying to "fix" it. I'd be very interested now to hear what mainboard\firmware combo's people are using successfully \ are happy with.
* Rumba + Marlin
* azteeg x3 + Sailfish
* ?

 

smoothieboard, comes with its own firmware.
i'm currently putting it thru the paces as i'm cold testing my printer these days.

 

Hey guys,

Can an anyone help?

I previously purchased a "stock" printer, which never worked from the start (''twas a makibox), so I have started to build a C-bot!

I have gathered most of the parts required and started to build the frame (however) I've become a little stuck on the printed parts... With my current "printer" I'm not able to print anything (wobbly z axis, print head/feed fails constantly and Perspex frame is failing... Worse is that there are no available spares for the printer!, basically I made a mistake and didn't do my research!)

I was wondering if anyone who is UK based would be able to print me the parts required as low cost as possible?

Any help would be most appreciated (I'm not asking for anything free! Just as low cost as possible).

I'm contactable on my email (email address removed by mod - use PM to contact.)

Many thanks
Ash

 

BeagleBone Black / Cramps - Machinekit
BeagleBone Black / Replicape - Machinekit / Redeem

 

@Chris Roadfeldt : Thanks. I presume by you posting that you're experiencing "good" results out of that combo? I thought about jumping on the replicape bandwagon a while back, but it seemed like Redeem was just so new, didn't seem safe thoughts?

 

I started out trying to use a Smoothie board and let's just say things didn't go as smooth as I expected. It is a good board, but the firmware is a bit lacking compared to others.

I then used a Duet 0.8.5 board. Great board and really good firmware. I originally got it for my delta printer I am working on, but when I put that printer on the back burner for a bit, used in on the C-Bot.

Now that I am getting ready to start working on the delta again, I was going to need a new controller for that. Thought about it a bit and decided to go with a Printrbot Printrboard on the C-Bot since it really didn't need the 32bit power and I have an OctoPi to hook up to it. Still getting it connected up right now. One thing about the version of Marlin that is used is that for CoreXY, all endstops have to be at the minimum position. That actually worked out better for me in my wiring.

 

FYI, that's not what I've experienced: I can configure my Marlin to use min or max homing just fine. I ended up changing my Y position (from back\max to front\min) a little while after I'd first assembled the bot. Didn't have any issues updating the FW. 2c
Thanks for your other info too

 

Too early to tell on both really. I am still tinkering around with both of them. I have the utmost confidence in Machinekit. It's my primary choice as it's been around in various forms for years driving real machines. Real as in, much more dangerous and exacting systems than a little ole 3d printer. It has the credentials, but it also has a learning curve. That said, there are some wrappers / interfaces for it that are geared more for 3d printing and the learning curve is shrinking. I have machinekit partially running with my C-Bot now. The C-Bot project has been idled for a bit, but will pick it back up and finish it up in March.

Redeem, I have the same concerns you have. Would like to see it mature a bit more. I've had my replicape a4a for almost a year now. It has yet to drive an actual print, mostly due to me not taking the time to fully configure it and tweak it to run on any of my printers. I attempted to last spring, but the 8825 drivers caused my steppers to squeal loudly. I believe it has to do with the decay method, but didn't have time to research it more or attempt to change it properly. Had a marlin / RAMPs config ready to go, dropped it in and was printing minutes later. I do plan to test the replicape more with both redeem and machinekit later this spring. My experience with redeem's primary developer, Elias Bakken, is that he is comitted to making it work well and is responsive to concerns and questions. So if you have any, reach out to him via his website / wiki. Perhaps my experience is out of date.

 

Things may have changed in newer versions of Marlin, but the version used with the Printrboard has this little check in Configuration.h...

// Disable max endstops for compatibility with endstop checking routine
#if defined(COREXY) && !defined(DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS)
#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
#endif

It's a bit away from the COREXY define so I didn't see it and for each endstop I defined to use MAX, that endstop didn't show up in the M119 status. I hope they have removed that constraint by now.

 

That's good to hear. I stuck with the original version Printrbot used mainly for the M212 command that I have heard is not part of the main Marlin code (http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M212:_Set_Bed_Level_Sensor_Offset). I might update to a newer version after I get everything working if the M212 has been added. But for the most part, the board has everything needed, aside from some spare 12v connection points for some fans. And the price is pretty reasonable compared to other similar boards.