It's not the fanciest tech out there or the newest and slickest but I've just been using a $30 knock off Ramps 1.4 kit. I've been doing more testing with pushing prints speeds to around 100mm/s and above. It could at least be a quick replacement while you look around for something fancier

 

@Carl Feniak : I'm printing an MHQ v2 off Thingiverse. Almost have it done via my (functioning) Replicator 1. I don't think the the offset printing is a heat issue: I have heatsinks on all my steppers connected with thermal paste: Those things run cool, even on multi-day prints. The skip was over 1 layer btw, no a slow progression. I'm starting to wonder at this point if it was caused by a loose wire\vibration. But since I have to rewire it all now anyway on my new board we may never know

I think I'm going to got with a RADDS\Due combo with Repeteir: I already have the Due, like the 32-bit, and found a place here in the US that will have them back in stock tues.
Still open to suggestions, but that's the current train of though. And thanks for the feedback everybody.

 

I had that issue with mine. I also get a lot of comm errors when it is printing fast. It starts about 50mm/sec and gets worse as I increase the speed. I think it is a Marlin issue and have put it up as such to the developers. They appear to have some other issues - maybe, maybe not related. Hopefully they latch onto this and fix it. The twisting is because it starts losing commands.

 

What stepper drivers are you using? I've had issues with RAMPS and 8825s going fast, regardless of reference voltage. In my case I decided it was the Atmel not keeping up with the stepping and / or low torque at 32 micro stepping.

 

I have been reading this on my mobile for a couple of days now and I am glad I finally have the time to sit down at the laptop and pen a proper reply. I think what you are seeing is the biggest advantage of sailfish over all the other 8 bit firmwares. Sailfish is fed pure stepper pulses, the gcode conversion to stepper pulse is done via the .x3g conversion. A printer that consumes gcode will first have to interpret the gcode and convert it into stepper pulses. Not optimal on these Mr Coffee era processors. Gcode was originally for subtractive manufacture where a brief pause will cause much less grief then additive manufacturing. If you are looking to replace your board with an 8bit solution, and you know my bias, I would recommend either a mighyboard or a cloneboard mini, with a second choice being the Azteeg x3. I think deut with RRF is your 32-bit choice ATM. It rumored that Dan from sailfish is helping to optimize some of the safety and motion planning code. On a side fun note, Ryan has put a stepper driver adapter card over on OSH park, you can use the hot new drivers SD6128s on your mighyboard with gcode controlled digipots for setting vref up to 2.2A

Can you disable the LCD and still print with SD? I just pulled an azteeg x3 from my prusa i3 to replace it with a cloneboard mini, I also have a smoothie 5x and a replicape, if you want to try any of them before you buy one, let me know.

 

@Carl Feniak Did you adjust the extrusion calculator to allow a bit more depth? I know there was some talk about it a while back, and I know that I would like a few more mm's in my Y ( front to back ) to get to all of my build plate. I am going to start a new 200mm^3 project for a buddy and don't want to over adjust. Going to be a mini C bot, single Z motor/screw combo, cantilever bed mk3, single all metal MBI MK7 extruder.

 

@adamcooks - I've heard good things about the SD6128s as well. Have you tried them out yet? Looking to replace the 8825s as I seem to be one of the unlucky ones with a bad combo of 8825 and steppers causing a lot of noise... I don't really feel like soldering to change the decay mode, which I understand you need to do on the polulu style drivers to change decay mode. I've not done a lot of research yet on this, so if I am mistaken let me know. Regardless, the TMC2100 sound like a winner as well. But if the SD6128s are proven, I might give them a shot.

 

@Chris Roadfeldt : I've been using DRV8825's, quite successfully. I've heard people griping about them, but they've been solid performers to me. Just make sure you plug them in the right way so you don't let the magic smoke out of your mainboard like I did... For my updated electronics I'm going to go with THB612's, aka RAPS128 / SD6128 (like mentioned above).
@adamcooks : Agree with everything you say for 8-bit: My Sailfish enabled Replicator1 is humming along next to me right now, it's been a great firmware. Completely crushes Marlin. But since I like to experiment I'll go the 32-bit Due/RADDS/Repetier route.. we'll see what happens If Repeteir doesn't work out, I'll go with RRF.

 

I know Ryan is using them now on his replicator and Dan just ordered a bunch of those adapters. I need to wrap up a few projects before I can order some, but will definitely be getting on that train.

 

Is there a version of sailfish that will run on a corexy? link?
I fried a few 8825 drivers until I put a fan on them. Not a problem anymore,
Mega 2560 and Marlin don't like speeds over 50.

 

There are sailfish coreXY builds for both 1280 and 2560 mega boards and the x3, hosted on the normal update site.

 

Question: My Due/RADDS replacement board just showed up. And as I research this more I realized that the "makerbot style" endstops on my cbot may not jive with the Due's 3.3v logic: I see that hall-e is an option, but I want to see if anyone else is in the same boat as me, what solution have you come up with?

Also, any thoughts what I should set the microstepping to in my new SD6128 drivers? Just because I can go 1/128... does that mean I should?

Thanks!

 

From the makerbot endstop wiki on reprap.org

Note: if you use Teacup or Sprinter firmware, then resistor R1 and the connection to 5V are obsolete. The Arduino ATmega has internal pullup resistors which can be turned on in the firmware using the USE_INTERNAL_PULLUPS flag in config.h for Teacup firmware or ENDSTOPPULLUPS in configuration.h for Sprinter and Marlin firmware. Using the internal pullup resistors eliminates the need for external resistors, which simplifies the wiring. If internal pullup resistors are used the switch can simply be connected to the signal and ground pins. Reportedly sometimes the internal pullup resistors have a large tolerance which can in rare cases cause issues. If you are having problems first double check that your wiring is correct and confirm that your firmware is configured correctly before deciding you may have bad internal pullup resistors.

If I am reading this correctly, it appears that if the DUE has internal pull-ups, you can ignore the 5v line on the endstop, connect just the ground and signal pins of the endstop and it should still work. Any LED on the endstop might not work though.

As for the steps, I vote for given them a shot at 128 and reporting back. I'd be curious to hear how they perform and if at 128 steps there is enough torque to hold accurate positioning.

 

Thanks @Chris Roadfeldt : I'll be using Repetier to start. I'm a little sketched out partially hooking up an endstop to my board and "seeing what happens" though I'd rather not do something terrible to it unless the peoples confirm that the route you suggested would be safe

 

You're welcome, didn't mean to imply just seeing what happens. My concern was more about if there would be enough voltage going through the 10k pull up resistor of the enstop when connected to 3.3 volt in order to trigger a digital high on the due. I've been looking for the documention on the due to do the math and confirm, but so far the only relevant documentation has been here say in forums.

As long as you don't connect the endstop power to anything higher than a 3.3 volt source, it's not going to cause any damage to the due.

If the switch is normally closed, then enabling internal pull-ups on the signal pin will ensure it works as expected.

 

I'm running Repetier on Due/RADDS with simple microswitches connected to the GND and signal pins (middle and "right") as on this diagram: http://doku.radds.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/RADDS_Wiring.png

I don't use the 3.3v pins at all.

 

Great, thanks for the confirm both of you!

 

what kind of dimensional accuracies are required for the printed parts?

 

I was wondering were you got your due/RADDS board from.. I'm still trying to figure out what board combination I'm going to use also. I'm on somewhat of a budget.

 

Electronics | Filastruder in the U.S. Kind of pricey once you add the LCD. Clone board mini with screen is only 140.

 

Yep, I got mine from Filastruder, only place in the US that I can find that stocks them, and they just recently got a supply in last week since they'd been out up until then.

• Arduino Due : Got mine on an Amazon special for $15
• RADDS shield: $61
• RADDS LCD : $37 (note, you have to use this LCD, I think I found only one other alternative that required some hacking, this is plug and play).
• 4x SD6128 stepper drivers: $46 ($11.50 each from Panucatt). I could have used my old DRV8825's or A4988's, but have heard a lot of good things about these so I figured why not...

$113 without the drivers, $159 with (and there are cheaper drivers out there), not too bad considering what you're getting. + tax & shipping of course.

FYI, as of last night I just got the whole thing reassembled and Repetier installed, and the machine moving around. Man, I already like Repetier faaar more than marlin based on configuration & ease of setup. I'll have a lengthy blog post on this process soon.

 

Hi guys, I'm building a D-bot from Spauda remix;
The designer is not using any LCD so he compiled the configuration file without it.
Now Iwant to use a full graphic lcd from reprap discount ( the big screeen with the knob on the low-right corner, a buzzer next to it and a dimmer on the low-left corner); I'm totally out from arduino programming…
Which changes I have to do on the config file in order to use the LCD?
Could someone help me?

you can see the original file on his page: D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer by spauda01

 

Hi thanks for the prompt reply
I found some similar: in the config.h I have to uncomment the line which contain my lcd. I have to do some try, I may come back if doesn't work.

thanks again

 

No, uncommenting the lcd line I've got this error:

Arduino:1.6.6 (Mac OS X), Scheda:"Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

sketch/Marlin_main.cpp:2667:36: warning: invalid suffix on literal; C++11 requires a space between literal and identifier [-Wliteral-suffix]
LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MACHINE_NAME" "MSG_OFF".");
^
sketch/temperature.cpp:565:46: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive [enabled by default]
#ifdef THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD && THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD > 0
^
In file included from sketch/dogm_lcd_implementation.h:38:0,
from sketch/ultralcd.cpp:39:
sketch/dogm_font_data_marlin.h:12:25: fatal error: utility/u8g.h: No such file or directory
#include <utility/u8g.h>
^
compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Errore durante la compilazione

Questo report potrebbe essere più ricco di informazioni con
"Mostra un output dettagliato durante la compilazione"
abilitato in "File > Impostazioni"

 

this one, on the bottom in the shot

I installed the U8glib, as requested above