I just had a feeling you were going to have mods.....

BTW, I like your My Customized generic fan guard / filter / mesh / bee's nest by TechGirl_Mods fan guards. Think I'll use them, 30mm & 40mm - printing them now

Suggestion: in your description at thingiverse of the drill guide, add a link to your comment here for people who find it by other routes. The url to that comment is OneZ i3 | Page 2 | OpenBuilds

 

Cool! I have a suggestion. As oriented in the stl, the recesses for the M5 screw heads are down, I'd flip them up for printing. Printed downward there will be bridging problems going from the recess size to the hole size. For adjusting the wheels mounted to an extrusion it is critical that the screws be perpendicular to the plate face and that bridging will not leave you a flat recess for the screw head if printed with those recesses downward. That said, that puts the recesses for the M4 screws on the down side where they will now have the bridging problem. So, here's a handy bridge eliminating trick I use for printing recesses on holes when recesses are down - put a 45 degree bevel on the hole inside of the recess. In this case, a 0.6mm offset in Sketchup's Rounded Corners plugin.



An alternative here is to use the Openbuilds mini-wheel plate, thus guaranteeing proper tensioning of the wheels in the v-slot. The Toranado's mount holes are 4mm spaced 23mm apart. On the Openbuilds plate there are 4 M5 tapped holes. Drill out the two horizontal tapped holes to 6.5mm hole. That will make those holes large enough so you can then use the M4 screws through those holes to screw right into the Toranado's two bottom mounting holes (M4 screw button heads are 7.5mm). Two mount screw should be plenty strong enough, I use only two on my extruder body piece for mounting to the Openbuilds plate.

 

It works both ways. I haven't responded to the suggestions you've emailed me, but they are going into the re-write of the Assembly Instructions (which I'm hacking away at now). The next Kit assembler is going to have an easier time because you're help, "Customer 0".

BTW, those 45 degree brackets are indeed sloppy. But I think they are generic off-the-shelf as every T Slot extruder manufacturer offers the same bracket. On the Onez their purpose is to guarantee the 90 degrees of the two uprights. Actual strength (so you don't end up holding the handle and top bar with the rest of the printer bouncing off the floor) is accomplished by the corner top bracket which screws into upright and bolts to the top bar.

 

Oh.... I was thinking they were M4 screws, not M3. As Rosanna Rosanna Danna used to say, "Nevermind".

 

Here's my suggestions. First of all, on the top corners, set them up as usual with the 45 degree brackets to ensure a 90 degree angle at both corners, then reinforce that using 90 degree plates on the back sides. At 800mm high it's going to need that reinforcement as you move it around.

As for the Y axis, with a print that could go up to 800 high and 400 off from center, that would put a lot of stress on the Y axis wheels if you stick with just a 20x40 for the Y axis frame piece. You might get by with just graduating up to using a 20x80 (the universal build plate has holes for that if you want to use it for a wheel base to bolt to your acrylic build plate).

But I think I'd go with two 20x40s separated out. If you use a 20x40 for your back extension, you could route the belt back beyond the 20x40 y frame and run the belt up the middle. I would also run that back extension piece all the way across so you can place the two rear feet at those two corners. Remember, you only want a 3 feet triangle to prevent wobble

To mount the bar(s) going back to the rear extension, I'd mount them on the side of the 20x80 frame and drill holes in them to bolt on the same way the two uprights are bolted. Just some added stability.

I see you already realized two handles will be better than one

 

Looks good. Thanks for the update. When you get the extruder all put together, could you weigh it, including your plate and wheels, nozzle, core (everything but the wiring). I'd like to compare what you have by weight.

 

My extruder assembled, with Nema 17 56 oz/in 40mm motor, E3D, E3D fan, spring, bearing, mount screws & Openbuilds mini-wheel kit weighs right at 16oz. With print cooling fan 17.6.

 

@JustinTime is missing the bolt-in-slot at the bottom of the Z-Axis V-slot rail. Use a drop-in-tee-nut on that bolt (for better threads than a slide nut) and you can tighten that bolt down through the hole with a cheater bar on your hex wrench. If you go to 20x40 (which I recommend just for flex in the 20x20) and use a bolt-in-slot in each v-slot your joint there would be almost weld strong.

At the top corner, adding a 90 degree plate should be sufficient. But, there is an easy way to make it so rigid you can use the printer as a step ladder. Like down at the bottom of the Z-Axis V-slot rail, drill an access hole 10mm from the top 90 degrees from the one at the bottom. Then tap thread the end holess of the top rail. screw a M5x10mm into that end, slide the Z-Axis V-slot rail slot over the head of that bolt, reach in through the access hole and cinch it down. The only way that corner could flex is if you break the bolt. Or, add a openbuilds endcap to the bolt and extend the bolt to the outside. That joint isn't going break unless you rip the extrusion apart or break the bolt. Imagine doing that with a 20x40 upright bolted that way to a 20x40 top rail.



Don't even think of joining a open end belt into a closed loop. You'll lose a week trying it . A good China source for closed loop belts on AliExpress is POWGE.

Yes, use smooth idler wheel instead flanged bearings. I use flanged bearing just to reduce costs.

The way I actually do the smooth linear rods is: drill out the top piece hole to 8mm to 20mm deep. Tap that to seat on a rod. Chuck the rod end into a pipe vise and wiggle the top piece back off of it (that makes it an easy press fit for later on). Then tap the rod down into the bottom piece to flush with the bottom of the hole. Then bolt the bottom piece to the printer. Later when the X axis has been positioned over the rods, you can easily tap the top pieces onto the rods and bolt them on. A main consideration - the X axis screws get acorn nuts fitted to their top. So the top of the screw's threads have be clean. Considering that you're going to cut those screws to correct length, the threads at the other end are not going to be clean. Here's what is important, you need to thread clean threads through the nylon nut on the X axis so as not to mess up the threads in the nut. So, I bring the threaded rod in from the bottom through that hole in the bottom bracket - clean threads up, thread it through the nylon nut, add the belt, pulley, washer and bearing, and keep threading it up through the hole in the top piece, add the bearing, washer and acorn nut.

Do NOT rely on a blind hole in the bottom bracket to hold the Z screw up. The Z screw is anchored at the top. The acorn nut presses down on the top bearing, the pulley presses up on the bottom bearing, captivating the screw in the top bracket. The X axis therefore "hangs" from the top.

A Bowden motor mount/driver is included in the http://3dwrx.com/openbuilds/i3/i300-assembly-parts.zip along with a Chimera mount.

 

Read response to @Subramaniam S S above on that corner.

You remember we talked about using a aluminum square bar for your trailer frame and covering it with a printed sleeve? Well, consider Openbuild's 40x40 extrusion instead



You could bolt printed panels to it, or just use Openbuilds slot panels


which I think would look cool!. The extrusion would provide v-slots for mounting U joint.

 

@Subramaniam S S Looks good. I'm having trouble extracting the assembly.zip - seems to be an error in the zip.

Other than that, I like the extensions on the back for added strength. But, you also need a top bar connecting those two back corners. If not when you pick it up by the two handles they'll want to collapse towards each other, skewing everything else out of true.

 

That is @TechGirl 's mount. It looks good to me as far as fit. If a Toranado is what you want, I'd use it. She and I compared weights for my extruder w/Nema17 and hers w/Nema14 plus the weight of the gears and extra plastic and we were less than 1 oz difference. I run my extruder at 1/8 microstep so it has plenty of power and runs cool.