I have a really stupid question. I have been looking at this printer and is it really a CoreXY? The description says "A new Core XY printer" but from what I can tell you are using two motors for Y (one for each side) and a motor for X. That is just a standard setup, not CoreXY. Am I missing something?

 

Not sure, it just through me off because I was interested in CoreXY printers (those are the type I like building). They only use two steppers to control X and Y at the same time, like H bot but better because of minimized backlash and racking.

 

did you connect the y motors in series or parallel?

 

also, can't wait to see the extruder mounted on it.

edit:
never mind that, i missed the extruder in the last pic. my bad.

 

s

i also connected mines in parallel. trying to connect them in series and frying a couple of m542t stepper drivers was the main reason.

 

Doing the first test print today:

_D3A2166 by Tim N posted Apr 14, 2016 at 8:58 AM

_D3A2170 by Tim N posted Apr 14, 2016 at 8:58 AM

_D3A2171 by Tim N posted Apr 14, 2016 at 8:58 AM

_D3A2172 by Tim N posted Apr 14, 2016 at 8:58 AM

Not perfect and still have a lot to adjust. All suggestions to make better print are welcome

 

Printer is now 99% completed...

 

i almost hate you for those awesome led lights.
regarding the printed part, have the same delamination on my first successful print.



nozzle was 0.35 mm, and filamwnt was pla 1.75 mm.
temperature was 185 c.
did you guys figure out why it happens?

 

will try 210 c.
thank you, sir.

 

Your filament feed may be too low as well. Try bumping it up a bit.

 

Any more pics of your giant printer? Also, what slicer are you using?

 

thank you, will look into that.

 

Val, I should have asked first, but have you calibrated your extruder? If not there are lots of good youtube instructions that can walk you through the process. It's not hard, but more involved than I can describe here in a couple paragraphs.

 

this here pic is taken after the printing of the delaminated part. one can see it under the extruder.



..and below is the second attempt, with 210 celsius temperature per steve's recommendations. part printed fine, it's just that i forgot to add support for an overhang. it printed it anyways..








i use slic3r then load the saved gcode into pronterface

 

I did a sort of preliminary calibration of the axis except the extruder, but you are right, i should fine tune those numbers.
regarding the extruder, it's a dual but one of the tits is not hooked up to the smoothieboard.
my buddy is supposed to stop by one of these days and hook it up, then i can finally calibrate the whole unit.

 

youtube link below:

 

on a non technical note, she loves to sing, especially when doing circles.

 

2 new prints...

Simple vase:

_D3A2899 by Tim N posted Jun 2, 2016 at 6:32 PM

First few layers have blobs since filament fan was turned off intentionally. Subsequent layers were fine...
Also need to get rid of the Z-scars....

_D3A2898 by Tim N posted Jun 2, 2016 at 6:32 PM

Trying 2-color printing, ooze barrier was too close to the actual print that put artifacts on the object:

_D3A2903 by Tim N posted Jun 2, 2016 at 6:32 PM

_D3A2909 by Tim N posted Jun 2, 2016 at 6:32 PM

After some clean up:

_D3A2914 by Tim N posted Jun 2, 2016 at 6:32 PM

_D3A2913 by Tim N posted Jun 2, 2016 at 6:32 PM

_D3A2923 by Tim N posted Jun 2, 2016 at 6:32 PM

 

steve and tim, are you using a heated bed?
if so, what is the wattage of the heating pad, or element?

 

Hi Val,

Yes, we are using a heated bed. It is 110V AC @ 1200W rating.

 

replace the glass and heater with pir foam. add a bit of a raft to your part prior to printing.
sink the extruder about 1 mm into the foam and print.
you will forget there's such thing as warping.

 

first thing first, credits go to the digital dentist for the tip:

https://vimeo.com/66108108
https://vimeo.com/66108107

a few things about pir foam, or polyisocyanurate foam: one can usually buy it from building materials suppliers, comes in 4x8 sheets, sometimes 4x9. the usuall thicknesses are 1 inch and 1.5 inch. they come either foiled in paper (harder to peel off) or aluminum foil, easier to remove. price for a 4x8 sheet: around 20-25 bucks. bought mine from lowe's.
i use 1 inch because i believe 1.5 to be a waste. the foam can be reused a few times, but since the majority of 3d printers are no bigger than 0.5x0.5 meters, one can cut many smaller sheets off a 4x8, so that's some of the best spent 20 bucks ever. besides, one can use the other foam face anytime.
the foam can be used for pla, which is the material i used, but the digital dentist has successfully printed on abs. both materials stick to the foam like hell, as his video above shows. depending on the geometry of the printed part, you might wreck the foam while removing, but good thing a 4x8 sheet is plenty. also, leveling becomes kind of moot, seeing how the danger of the extruder hitting the printing surface is rendered null.
regarding the printing itself: i tweaked the beginning code in slic3r to home x and y axes, then manually home z myself then, with the machine ready, i lower the extruder tip by no more than 2.5 mm into the foam and start printing. i use a 2 loop skirt to increase the contact surface of the printed part to the bed, but i recommend using a raft.

try it, and experience the pleasure of not having to wait for the bed to heat up prior to printing.

 

for some reason beyond my limited knowledge, i cannot seem to convince the machine to accept an all axis homing gcode, followed by the lowering of the extruder a few mm into the foam.

 

there was absolutely no warping on any of the parts i printed, big or small.
print a larger part, you will understand why it won't warp when you remove it from the bed.
i think i figured out the gcode part. it is very important how much one sinks the tip of the extruder into the foam.