Kyo published a new build:

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@bnbellis3377 Thanks, You will love having a cnc around once your build is up and running. I keep finding new projects to throw at mine

@stargeezer Thank you.. I will be building a custom electronics enclosure this time around. The way I spec'd the V-slot in the b.o.m after cutting the parts needed for the cnc I will have just enough to build a enclosure like Martin Barfoed did for his X-carve. I should have very little waste. I find a lot of the electronic and wiring aspects get skimmed over or left out of builds. I hope by making it it's own build I will help those who may be intimidated by wiring there machine with a step by step process. Nice, What kind of project are you working on? another cnc?

@Moag Thanks, indeed it is ! I look forward to logging on each day to see all the cool things folks come up with.. I am liking it ! Fusion is a little less intimidating once you dive in. Having a solid idea laid out of what I wanted to model really helped me pick it up. I would have struggled so much more if I did not have a specific item to make lol. Sounds like you and I both attend the same school of "click in tell it works! and if it does not; Ctrl+Z" hahaha

@UltiBots Thanks, no problem happy to share..

 

Sure no problem, I actually have a few videos up showing how I have it all set up. I have grbl running on the nano v3 with the pins brought out via the protonner 2.51 pi hat. But the pins should be the same for any arduino based controller or even the arduino pins directly.

You have two options depending if you want to edit your settings to change the default behavior of grbl. By default grbl provides a active low signal to enable stepper and a active high to disable stepper. This is reversed from what the dq542ma drivers want to get. They need a active high to enable not active low. In that case we do not use the enable pin from grbl and instead use a 5v output.



Now if you dont mind editing your grbl settings you can change the $4=0 setting to $4=1 doing this will change the grbl enable pin to provide the active high to enable stepper signal the dq542ma driver wants to see. Doing this we would use the enable pin from the arduino.




Let me open up a image editor and I will upload a wiring diagram in a second.

EDIT: Images below.









Edit: Not sure if it matters; but I am not powering my nano over usb. I have a single 5v 2amp power supply running the Raspberry pi / Protoneer hat / Nano v3 combo.. I am running the bCNC g-code sender software on the pi. The Driver is hooked up to my 24v mean well power supply.

 

Nice, Glad to hear it.

 

Thank you.

Sure I have no problem posting the file. I will upload the stl tomorrow morning. It could still use a little tweaking before calling it a finial design. The plate was designed to replace the top c-beam end plate and belt plate. I did not like how I was mounting the bearing and set the project aside going with OB's plates instead.

 

Mogray -- Here are the stl files for both the plate and cover. I was going to go with a milled plate and 3d printed cover. Like I said I did not end up making this part so if you decide to give it a go make sure to post it up. I welcome any feed back and would be happy to make changes to the files if needed for your project.

 

hmm not sure, I will take a look at the file and re-upload a "solid / manifold" stl. Thanks for the heads up..

 

I have not had a chance to change the above file. But I did re print it. No issues. ( slic3r to prusa i3v ).. This weekend I was able to get a number of things done on the build including most of the filming.

Quick question. One complete build video? or each step as its own video? @Mark Carew would it be okay to include the openbuilds youtube video intro in my build guide? Next up is editing.

For those who are already building this cnc; the current revision of cad files posted. There is a small mistake that prevents you from mounting the dual anti-backlash nuts on the y and x axis. I forgot to take into account the lead screw has a 8mm lead and space the mounting points accordingly. This became apparent once I started to film the assembly. You are still good to go with a single anti-backlash nut configuration. I am updating the plates to v2 that will fix this mistake.

If anyone wants random in progress updates, I have been using Instagram ( @509maker ). As always everything will be posted here as well. It is just another platform for me to share on

 

Awesome, thanks. Videos will be posted in a couple days. Almost done and my weekend just started, time to dive in.

Wrapped up the Z- axis today and have everything laid out for the X-axis tomorrow morning.

 

Oh that went together nicely ! Should make for a really solid x/z axis. Mechanical build is complete! I just have to finish editing and then upload the build videos , Upload the build manual , Update the three plates ( x axis rear , y axis side plates ) to correct my dual nut mistake.

 

Six Chapter build manual has been upload to the files tab. I find it really handy to load it on to a phone or tablet to keep on hand during the build. Build video has also been published. Check the "build" tab I tired to keep it short without cutting out the details. I am not use to talking when building let alone to a camera lol

 

Thanks guys, Happy to share my work. That is half the fun

New zip file added to "files and drawings" tab. This is revision two of the y and x axis plates to fix my error for dual nuts. Looks like I was out only by 1.5mm each nut. Not a lot but enough. The original files are still fine if you plan on running a single nut in each axis. Now that I have my machine together; One nut really does feel solid enough.

 

Thank you! Started to lay things out for my electronics this morning. When complete you will only need to connect the cnc via quick disconnects and plug in a hdmi monitor.
Still waiting on a few odds and ends to arrive in the post before I can begin.

Also found a nice piece of tooling plate darn near the exact size needed. Score! That should be a perfect base for the Sphinx. On top will go two additional sheets of replaceable spoiler board.

 

For this build yes. I only have one Protoneer hat and it will remain powering my C-beam machine. With my choice to use the larger OB high torque series motors and new dq542ma drivers. The Protoneer hat had to many features pololu sockets , nano ect. that I would not use. The Phoenix board was originally designed for cnc mills running external drivers ( g0704 / pmw-45 / ect ) It should be a perfect match for this build. I would have preferred screw terminals for my power input instead of a barrel jack however. But it will do. It is basically a purpose built Uno; so if I brick anything I can always replace the atmel atmega328p-pu chip to

 

Thank you, It has been a learning process documenting things. I usually just dive and build with a few photos during and after. This time I am trying to step back go slower and go "If I saw this build, What Info would I want?"

Yes for now just the one 24v power supply. The control board and motors both can run 24v power natively and thanks to this awesome little ubec (rc battery eliminator circuit ) I can run the pi from the 24v as well. The motors may get a separate power supply latter, we will see how it all runs..