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C-Beam Machine XLarge

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Moag, Jul 31, 2016.

  1. snokid

    snokid Journeyman
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    so many good machines so little time!!!
    great job moag!!!
     
  2. Moag

    Moag Veteran
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    So true,snokid and cheers mate!!
     
  3. Moag

    Moag Veteran
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    @MaryD, Keith totally eclipsed me on my build time for sure, and I consider myself a novice and are planning to stay one for life..., just so I've got something new to look forward to each day.;)
     
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  4. FireHaus

    FireHaus New
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    Ive almost got enough set aside for the kit. Could someone let me know ballpark what the electronics are going to run me? Is there a standard kit I could purchase? I dont plan on running fancy software at first.
     
    Moag likes this.
  5. EvanBruner

    EvanBruner Well-Known
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    The best system you can get for the lowest would be:

    12v Meanwell Powersupply - $40 (upgrade to 24v for $10)
    Arduino Uno - $10
    SMAKN TB6600 Stepper Drivers - $15/ ea or $60 total (future proof)
    Openbuilds High Torque Steppers - $40 ea or $160 total
    Wiring and Connectors - $30

    You can get by with a lot less to be honest, but this would be a really good set of starter electronics. You can get smaller motors and drivers depending on what you plan on making.
     
  6. Traxxtar

    Traxxtar New
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    @Moag - Why not move the gantry to the backside of the vertical sides as shown in the following pic? You would have to relocate the additional 20x40 support, but you'd gain about 120mm additional Y-axis cutting area.
    cbeamXL-DM.jpg
     
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  7. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Actually you don't, in reality you lose Y-axis cutting depth. When the cutting board is as far back as it will go on the rail you are now even farther from the front edge of the board with the bit. And when the board is all the way to the front, the bit is hanging off the back edge.

    Overall, the Y-axis cutting depth is limited by the range of motion of the Y-axis actuators. Moving the gantry back merely redefines the area where the cutting bit reaches the cutting board. Note, if you'd like to adjust your system to achieve the best possible balance in the cutting area, set the board in the center of its range of motion and loosen the tower and slide the assembly forward until the router bit is over the true center of the board. This will give you just as much dead space at the front of the board as the back.
     
    Joe Santarsiero, Moag and GrayUK like this.
  8. Bad Sequel

    Bad Sequel Well-Known
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    Good question.
    Good answer.

    Thanks folks!
     
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  9. Traxxtar

    Traxxtar New
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    Couldn't you just make the board bigger? (edit)

    Never mind. I get it now. It just took me a few minutes to process. I suppose the only way to increase the Y axis cutting depth is to lengthen the Y-axis Cbeam actuators.

    ...and here I thought I was really being creative. :(
     
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  10. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
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    Can't blame a guy for trying! :thumbsup:
     
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  11. lord_drachenblut

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    I've started my build of the xlarge kit. I've run into a couple questions that I've emailed about.

    I'm a little hesitant to post the questions here at the moment. Hopefully I get a quick reply and it can help improve the manual.

    Overall the manual is well assembled to make stepping through the process very easy.
     
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  12. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    When Do we get the Sketchup Model?
     
  13. Kyo

    Kyo Veteran
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  14. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    oops! missed it.
     
  15. Moag

    Moag Veteran
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    Ah, the designer is getting stronger in you;):thumbsup:. Welcome to the thought processes of a designer, keep going, it's the beauty of openbuild parts and the openbuilds community.:D
     
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  16. Moag

    Moag Veteran
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    I will try to get it into the builds page somehow Metalguru, Mark was having problems uploading files to the build page, when I spoke to him last; so it was my mistake mate. Thanks heaps, @Kyo for posting the link mate.:thumbsup:
     
  17. Moag

    Moag Veteran
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    If you or anyone else have any more questions, please don't hesitate to ask here or PM me or Mark..:thumbsup::);)

    It's the best way to improve things.
     
  18. Traxxtar

    Traxxtar New
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    @Moag Could the two X-axis 'feet' be replaced with 20x40 instead of the 20x60 sized rails? As you know ;) I've taken a very good look at the Sketchup model and it seems like there would be sufficient clearance for the Y-axis actuators. I'd like it to sit lower to the workbench and I just don't like the looks of it sitting so high.

    Also, another build thread where you started all of this shows your inquiry about using a C-Channel support beam located inside the C-Beam of the gantry. Have you given up on that idea? Is it needed?

    Thanks much!
     
  19. Moag

    Moag Veteran
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    @Traxxtar, can't see it being much of a problem, if you don't want put anything under there. Just attach it well to your bench, for added strength. Talking about bench this is what I'm planning, I will post up a pic, when built.
    CNC-Bench-2 v4.png

    Concrete filled C-Beam? Yes still playing around with stuff as designers do. "Will it ever end? Hope not";)

    As for the u channel, it works nicely but not a easy fitting job by hand, by a long shot. Lots of time, to get it to fit well.
    _X8A4094.jpg _X8A4088.jpg _X8A4085.jpg _X8A4084.jpg _X8A4082.jpg
     
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  20. Traxxtar

    Traxxtar New
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    Nice bench. Looks extremely sturdy, perhaps more than you'll need. I'm actually in the process of designing and building one myself.

    For the C channel...instead of using a C channel brace, how about just using a flat bar 1/8" or whatever will fit along the inside of the Cbeam? (excuse the quick photoshop job, but wanted to show what i meant). Make it thin enough to not interfere with the screw, etc. Secure it with Tnuts, etc. I think this would strengthen and add rigidity to it.

    cbeam.jpg
     
  21. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Hey Moag, where did you find the bookmatched knotty pine boards for your bench in Oz?:p

    Had an idea, could you shave off the edges of the U channel using the Table Saw with a non-ferrous metal blade? Might be a bit hairy getting it set up, but once it was set you could give the channel a haircut in seconds!:) Cut one side, put a layer or two of masking tape on the fence, and run the other side. Masking tape should be about .1mm thick. (haven't verified this)

    Traxxtar, I was thinking about this too. Not sure it would add much rigidity, but it might help some. The C-beam is weakest on the two "arms" of the C, which is where reinforcement would help the most.

    MG
     
  22. Traxxtar

    Traxxtar New
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    @Metalguru @Moag Another alternative is to spin the vertical risers 180, add a second Cbeam to the gantry, and spin the X-axis Cbeam 180. See below. A few extra wheels, move the verticals fwd a bit, etc. Your thoughts?

    cbeammods.jpg
     
  23. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    So, Traxxtar, you are essentially making an 80x80mm beam? Interesting, but I can see a few challenges with joining the beams together, and supporting them at the ends. Also, where do your lead screw bearings reside? And how do you assemble it?

    Two c-beams back wouldn't be much stiffer than a single one, unless they are firmly attached to each other. If you were to weld them together, it would work nicely, but warpage would be an issue. Might be able to epoxy them together...
     
  24. Traxxtar

    Traxxtar New
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    The lead screw, bearings, nut block, and backlash would all be on the front side closest to the Z-axis carriage. For the ends, an L-bracket across the bottom spanning both beams and a flat bracket across the top, similar to the current config only a bit larger.

    I've seen on another site a method of strengthening two separate rails or beams by drilling holes through the 'valley' portion of the aluminum tracks and using long screws and T nuts. You could use several all along the span of the beams to 'tie' them together.

    One benefit I see is that the Z-axis carriage is 'wider' from front to back and would provide added torsional/rotational strength when plunging the bit through hard surfaces.

    Perhaps this is overkill and not even needed. Just brainstorming.... ;)
     
  25. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Yep, that's what the forum is for.

    No doubt the 80x80 assembly would be much stiffer, if it was properly attached across the whole length. You'd definitely have trouble finding wheel axle bolts long enough to go across the whole assembly. They'd have to be well over 100mm long. I was considering something like this using a threaded spacer in the middle so you could put a bolt through from both sides...

    I regularly tie the X beams on OX builds together by bolting them through the center channel. It definitely makes the whole assembly stiffer. It would likely be even better if they were epoxied together as well.
     
  26. Metalguru

    Metalguru Veteran
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    Hey, I just thought of something - 3M VHB tape - This stuff sticks like s**t to a blanket! It would be ideal for bonding 2 pieces of v-slot together. McMaster has it in 12.7mm wide by 0.5mm thickness, I remember using this stuff in other projects over the years. It bonds extremely well, and is thin enough that it shouldn't affect things too much. With the available surface area between 2 pieces of v-slot, it would have incredible bond strength.

    It's got to be good, they put planes together with it...

    I am going to get some and try it out.
     
  27. Moag

    Moag Veteran
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    _X8A4152.jpg _X8A4153.jpg _X8A4155.jpg _X8A4156.jpg
    The work station/storage is coming together nicely, Just need to add two wide drawers to the front and six smaller ones for the sides :)
    Home for the C-Beam Machine XLarge and some space to store stuff. Sturdy as.:thumbsup:

    :ROFL::ROFL:

    That would be way easier to fit. You've got me thinking that two, L sections 20x20mm x 3mm might just work simply.

    If I had a table saw I might have given it a shot, it would of saved me hours and hours of tedious work. Sounds super dangerous, if it grabs and turns into a projectile cookie cutter.:nailbite:

    The brainstorming is great guys.:D:thumbsup:;)
     
    #87 Moag, Aug 24, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016
    snokid likes this.
  28. Glenn Weston

    Glenn Weston Journeyman
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    Hi Guys, those benches look fantastic... might have to look at something like that once I get my XL built.

    Just wanted to say I didn't end up ordering a kit as such but placed two seperate orders from the BOM supplied here..... unfortunately the total cost of the kit is over Australian Import duty threshold and I just did not want to deal with customs and pay for the privilidge.

    So what I did was order the bulk of the parts from www.makerstore.com.au, they dont carry everything for the machine but just about everything.
    They don't carry C-Beam for example so I placed an order here with openbuilds for the balance of required materials.

    The other thing about doing this is it supports both local business and openbuilds at the same time.

    I have now received my Australian shipment, extremely quick and all parts that were ordered have been supplied, so a +1 for makerstore here in Australia, thankyou Steven.

    I have what feels like a million parts..... I am having a Mechano Set feeling !!
    But it looks like some fun ahead.

    I have got enough bits to initiate the build whilst I await my U.S. shipment.
    Just wanted to let any other Aussie builders know about makerstore and how I got around the customs issue.

    Cheers Glenn.
     
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  29. MaryD

    MaryD OpenBuilds Team

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    Moag, GrayUK and Glenn Weston like this.
  30. MaryD

    MaryD OpenBuilds Team

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    This would be great as a build too. So handy!!
     
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