Here is the motor specs

 

I need your advice. I currently have a 500 (X) x 750mm (Y) OX. I want to expand it to a larger size. I'm thinking of 1500mm on both the axis. I am concerned about flex. I don't want to be concerned about stiffening if I can avoid it by reducing the 1500mm down to smaller manageable size. I currently have beefed up plates as you can see in the pics.

What is the largest size OX I can make without getting into issue regarding rail flex?

Thank You

 

Ok, here is the video, you can hear the pulsing sound, not sure why it shows so low amp draw.
maybe the meter is busted, ill have to check it

 

Here is another video, as i drop the voltage to 8volts it runs much more quite. i am running it whit a4988 drivers now, it runs little bit quieter whit those
maybe it is current issue, i ordered 24v 17a psu so ill test it whit thst once it arrives

 

Hi,

I finished my OX CNC-Machine (1000 mm x 1500 mm x 250 mm ) half a year ago....

Now my biggest problem is to setup the mill-endpoint to the table and the workpeace.....

... How can I setup the Z-high of the mill-endpoint when it is leaving the workpeace for short time during a job....(I dont mean homing position)
... this problem always break my tool when I start a job...

Its realy hard to find a good and easy tutorial to setup the first projekt.......

Can somebody give me a good starttutorial ??

Please help !!

Kind regard,

 

Thanks David,

Yes this help me a lot!

Last Question:
How do I setup the distance to the workpiece during milling process?

When I do milling, the tool is always to close to the workpiece
The tool scratch the surface.....

Is there any command to get more distance to the workpiece during milling process?

 

Thank you Justin Time!

Yes thats I am looking for....
I use "universal gcode sender" and RhinoCam for Rhinoceros 5.0.....

When I understand right, I have to make the settings in my software like "RhinoCam" where I generate the gcode...

I was looking unsuccessful in GRBL settings for that option before.....

I try to find this option in RhinoCam now!

best regards,

superelvis!!

 

Curious if anyone has used Slat Wall for their spoiler board yet?
Found one reference to it on the forums, here: C-Beam™ Machine - Plate Maker


Pic just just example of profile, as this shown is solid wood, where mine is particle board.


I was at Menards today picking one up, and saw this... Decided I'd try it out. Its more particle board than MDF, but is slotted, so rather than needing to drill holes and pounding in a T-Nut anywhere i want a clamp to go, i can just print some some T-Nuts (for the slots), and clamp down that way. I figure its fully adjustable, and if it does end up being a crappy spoiler board, i can always hold down the item with screws/clamps on a piece of MDF, which is then clamped down to the Slat Wall.

Another note, The did have melamine coated Slat Wall too, Id image that is MDF, rather than (larger) particle board though.

On my ride home, i realized i could have cut slots into my MDF board to emulate these T slots, but that'd make it weaker and stuff. We shall see how this goes.

 

I have a good idear....
I need a professional guy how can fix the most important stuff on my "ox cnc " .... (Vienna / Austria/Europe)
I invite everyone from U.S. how can help to run my OX CNC mill ....
free sleep and food for two or three weeks!!!(plane ticket you have to pay your selve)
after job is finished you can make party as long you have energy

Vienna is a realy nice place in Europe!

kind regard armin!

 

I don't mean to be a naysayer, but how in the world can you call this strong? You're using a belt for power transmission and trusting aluminum extrusions to be true and rigid. Might be fine for light wood engraving, I guess...

 

Theory of relativity.

Einstein stated that the theory of relativity belongs to a class of "principle-theories". As such it employs an analytic method. This means that the elements that comprise this theory are not based on hypothesis but on empirical discovery. The empirical discovery leads to understanding the general characteristics of the home built routers natural processes. SketchUp models are then developed to describe accurately the observed natural processes. Therefore, by analytical means the necessary conditions that have to be satisfied are deduced. Separate events must satisfy these conditions. Experience should then match the conclusions...

It’s all relative:
You want to build a CNC router (not a mill) on a shoe string budget? with limited access to materials, tools, equipment, professional services, machine shops, welders, etc…
Within these limits the design is relatively strong. Oh and it’s also 2013 before a few other designs were published.

I’ve had a good deal of fun building and modifying mine, and learned a lot in the process. No, a basic ox is not what I would choose to start with today, and certainly not what I would choose for “most” business application. But don’t count the basic design and aluminum extrusion out, it can be made relatively ridged.

 

Yeah, I wouldn't count it out as a learning experience. It just feels like there should be a disclaimer on it.

I agree with all of your points, actually. I overlooked that it was 2013. Maybe it's time for someone to share a Chinese ball screw version with some explanation as to why ball screws are preferable to belts and lead screws.

I think most professionals might laugh at you if you said you wanted to do anything serious with aluminum extrusions as linear guides, though. With the way that flex and backlash compound to produce error in your final product as a basic function of a 3-axis CNC machine (it's not a linear relationship!), I'd be hesitant to call "relatively rigid" quite good enough. But maybe it is, I admit I haven't built one yet.

 

There several post, mine #3301and 3303, along with the many other OX variant threads.

Many do, and I suppose rightly so if you have access to something better or are one of those types who would rather have no router than a compromise. But it really all comes down to what you want your router for, why get all worked up with the numbers when you’re primarily going to be making wooden signs?

My complaint with the belts on my OX was resolution, for example a decent photo engrave just wasn’t happening, but it was perfectly adequate for wood signs and even a slow and careful carbon fiber RC car pan or two.

With the increased resolution from ball screws in my case photo engraving became much easier, and other projects less prone to precision errors like exactly placed screw holes, etc. Deflection epically with something like aluminum is still and issue, especially with the unsupported rails I currently have on m z-axis you have to get real creative with your feeds and speeds, but then anyone who expects to plow through aluminum at a ¼” a pass cleanly on bench top router probably needs a reality check. For aluminum I could reinforce the gantry and replace the Z with something like this


But if you want to work mostly with heavy phenolic’s, aluminum, and the like personally I would worry about spindles and speeds, coolant delivery, a liquid proof bed, and the like before I got too worked up about my rails.

After some creative space management, I decided to try my own design for a second slightly heavier duty mostly non-woodworking router and keep my OX pretty much as is with a few additions to help keep the wood dust off my ball screws, that’s what I like about my Z axis the bronze Oilite bearings and the Thompson two start lead screw are virtually dust and chip prof, and the aluminum rails and wheels on the X and Y are also pretty forgiving when it comes to massive amounts of wood chips, but those un-supported guides on my OX's Z are most defiantly not something I would recommend for aluminum, but even it can be used in a pinch.

 

Has anyone tried the plates with 8020 1in x 3in 1030 series? If so what issues would you run into. I want to make my machine with a 2ft x 2ft cutting area and the 20mm x 80mm that are available would not allow me to do that without buying extra material that i would have to cut off and not used.

I would love to hear everyons thoughts.

Thanks!

 

I have a big problem with the homing command....


when I do homing command...
and the machine reach the first limitswitch, everything stop completly (alarmlock) .....

I have to take the axis manualy by hand out of the limitswitch (when I dont do this by hand I can´t leave the alarmlock)....

I saw in some tutorials before, that homing is gently dipping all limitswitch in X,Y and Z to get zeroed.....right?

please help!

 

My modified OX has proved extremely capable as a production machine for my signage business (Evolution Signs) and at 5' x 10' can handle full sheets of material which is extremely efficient for me. I'm sure a professional system would be even better, but this suits my needs at 10% of the price

 

I've been searching and can't find any posts about whether or not you should buy a 12v or 24v power supply. I plan on getting it from the parts store. 12v and 24v are same price. Looks like the 24v has 1/2 the amps of the 12. I was leaning towards the 24v for more power but if I lose the amps, is that a bad thing for my setup? I am going to get the CNC Pro V2 board. All my motors are NEMA 23's. Which should I buy, 12v or 24v? Thanks!

 

David,

What modifications have you done? I am working on mods to allow cutting aluminum on my 1000mm x 1000mm OX.

Thanks,
Evan

 

I picked up a CNC Pro V2 board. Anybody have any good suggestions for a box/case/cover for it? Thanks!

 

Hi Planga
here are a couple of links

xPro V2 and Spindle Speed Control Box by andrewadsit
CNC XPRO V2 Control Box by pinchio

Bob

 

Hello everyone, I am a new user here and am looking to build the OX sometime soon. Please excuse my "noobiness" because I don't have any experience with cncs. Just a few questions if you could please answer them:
1. How long does a machine like this take to build all up?
2. I have built a few things including an electric longboard, slingshot, vacuum former, spot welder etc. Can a cnc noob like me build a DIY CNC or should I buy a complete? I think I will get an ox kit if I build it.

 

Greetings lox897

Assembly is easy and doesn’t take all that much longer to build than it does to watch the video’s. Learning to use which ever cnc controller and cad/cam software you choose is, in my opinion, more of a challenge and took longer.

Hope you don’t mind if I ask a question. Why do you want to start with an Ox over something like the C-Beam?

 

Hey Philip, thanks for the response. I would like to start with the OX because the things I want to mill are quite large (longboards). The cbeam machines I have seen are only small but maybe I get longer beams?

 

IMO larger wood projects are a good reason to choose the OX.
Easy enough to upgrade, for accuracy, or cutting heaver material like aluminum and composites if necessary.

Only asked because when I built my OX the C-Beam design was not available and the heaver C-Beams and lead screws would have been better suited to the smaller multi material projects I originally wanted a router for.

The one recommendation I would have for someone building an OX today would be to use the 8-wheel Z-axis plate design instead of the original 6-wheel.

Cheers