I've definitely seen another off-the-shelf with that ability to heat only a center section of the bed. No idea how well it works. I'd say you'd be able to print 10-20mm in from the dims of the silicone heater. So a 250x250 silicone heater would render a 230x230 usable heated print area.

I use 8:1 PVA:water and that seems to work at lots of different temps. Maybe give that a go un-heated?

FWIW, I use a 350W silicone heater, on 300x300. It's approx at 60-70% modulation to get to 90degC. 700W is definitely overkill for 300x300.

 

where do i find the 123D file? i'd love to get a look and drool while i wait for the v-slot to come back in stock.

 

You can get the Keenovo heaters in 110. I am using 3 different ones on my printers and love them.

Check on both eBay and Amazon for them. Some times one is cheaper than the other, but you are ordering direct from Keenovo in both cases.

 

Hi All,

Just want to show off a little bit. I cut 3mm perspex panels for my D-Bot on my MPCNC machine from vicious1 and I think it came out very nice.

 

Hi Carl,

Thank you. I have not tried ABS yet, before I do I want to reprint some parts in PET-G just because I am afraid that some parts might warp when I start to print ABS. Just not easy getting PET-G here in Namibia and I have to order from overseas and costs are quite high. I hope to have PET-G in the next 3 to 4 weeks and then I will try ABS.

 

I just ran into what may be the holy grail of hall effect switches. It's the "NC" version of the hall effect switch. The Allegro A1125 output is low when the magnet isn't near. Also, it operates from 3.0V to 24V so it's compatible with Smoothieboard, TinyG and other 3.3V controllers. It's about $2 from Digikey.

 

Alright So I have no clue how to use 123D at all.. I loaded the full assembly but I have no idea how to change the dimensions of the parts to see how it will look... Trying to see if a 2x2x2 is doable

 

2x2x2 is doable, but you probably should look at the Triple C-Bot or the D-bot since they are designed for the larger bed sizes.

 

Question for those using two or more lead screws with a belt. What speeds are you running your Z axis at? I have mine at a pretty low speed right now and was thinking of trying to speed it up some and wanted some input on good speeds to use.

 

It doesn't really matter what speed you run because it only affects the homing speed.

 

And the homing speed is what I am wanting to change. Just don't want to go so fast it causes problems with the belts or hits the end stop too fast.

 

I have a 12x12 wood bed and a 200x200mm hotbed with a borosilicate plate over it in the center. I mount a 12x12x1/4 glass plate over the hotbed for large PLA models. The hotbed is running at 12V so it struggles to reach 100°C - from a cold start about 15min. with a glass pot cover over it. I use an Ultra hold hairspray for either and it works super well as long as I get the Z0 right. I also use the babystepping function in Marlin to tweak the Z0 - you must disable the babystepping_XY for it to work.

 

I use Marlin and I set my Z homing speed @ 8mm/sec. I have a 3 screw bed with single drive and belt. Works fine - since I got my screw aligned. Goes all the way down and up with no binding. The default HOMING_BUMP_DIVISOR = 4, which gives 2mm/sec. bump speed.

 

FYI - For anyone looking into this project that may not be aware, it's still very much alive and well as this forum, so feel free to post a questions / comment. Otherwise most of the discussion occurs on the google group / community page. C-Bot/D-Bot 3D Printer - Community - Google+

 

Hi. I am having problems with the belt slipping during build. The belts are taught when the printer is stationary but I can definitely see them slacken during the print and eventually they slip and the print is ruined. I have tried new belts and ensuring the that both belts are equally tight. The frame is square and tight so really at a bit of a loss at this point - any thoughts would be appreciated
Thx

 

Are they slipping out of the clamps?

 

Are you using belt tensioners?

 

No they are slipping on the gears and the they tight we stationary. The belt seems to somehow loosen during printing and I can see a little slack.

 

No its just a looped around the gears and direct into the clamps on the carriage.

 

No I am using normal fiberglass reinforced belts
Cheers

 

Sounds like the belts are stretching. Does this happen every time after you tighten the belts?

 

Are the set screws holding the gears in place tight? I had a setscrew come loose on me once & took me a while to spot what the problem was. I also did not have one of the set screws positioned on the flat part of the motor shaft which was most of my problem.

 

I am going to guess that you do not have the belts tight enough to start out with OR something is creating a lot of friction (sticking) when the gantry moves. I would suggest disconnecting the belts and making sure nothing is sticking on the gantry movement. Then reconnect the belts and get them as tight as you can. The reason for my thought is that if I watch my belts closely, I can see belt looseness when the motors are running on the "pushing" side of the motor pulley. If it is someplace else, then a bearing my be sticking.
You may be able to just loosen the motor pulley instead of removing the belt to get a free gantry. Try it.

 

Are you tensioning the belts when the motors / controller is on? Sounds like the slack is not been taken up during the tensioning. It would help if you posted a youtube video of the tensioning process you used. Make sure the power is off and the motors can turn freely when tensioning.

 

Hi all,

I have a question regarding the direct drive option. I have built a d-bot (by Spauda01 on thingiverse)... The print quality is really good even with bowden system but I would like to upgrade it to the direct drive system. I am hoping to use the gantry plate files for C-bot. I found the beta version file on page 35 (or 36?) of this thread and I am wondering if thats the final version? I did also find the files for direct drive in C-bot reworks folder in "files and drawing" section...

That said, could somebody confirm which is the final version? Also what is the recommended print setting? i.e.: no. of perimeters, % infill and no. of top and bottom layers?

Thanks!

 

Do you have a titan extruder by chance? Or are you looking to use Carl's Direct Drive?