Rob - I noticed the spacer\mount was revised from the original rounded two hole config to a more "T" like three holed config. Are you able to post that file up to the site? Thanks

 

That's awesome; thanks for the update. Any chance you could let me know the pricing on the OX Plates and the Garolite Spacers for NEMA 23's ?

 

Robert - completely understand and agree; no disrespect for the forum intended. Regarding the Garolite, the HDPE is absolutely fine. If possible please place me "third in line" and if your agreeable please reach to me off-forum at [email protected]
once again thanks.

 

BTW, thanks for updating the Spindle files; looks good.

 

Face palm moment.... I ordered a 10mm shaft chuck not an 8mm.... NOOOOooOOOoooO!!!!! I am not one part short form being able to spin this spindle up. So close its killing me! The good news was I did notice a few days after placing the first order so expect the right one any day now. Phew

I decided while I wait for the post man I would try out the motor and get it talking to mach3.... I have found this is far harder than I expected.

I have a 100A ESC (swy-wing SW-100A) that looks like it takes a PWM signal into but as it came with no information and the seller is not keen to help so I am a little stuck.

What recommendations do you guys have for getting speed control to work? Manual for now is ok by me but I would like to move control over to mach3 in the near future

I am just about to try to get my head around the sketch posted by @The Dude to see if that may work for me.

@Robert Hummel what was that little interface card you use in your demo clip?

 

I was planning on using a G540 for a small cnc so have 0-10v out that I could use .... Would it possible to splice this into where the adjustment pot is for the servo tester circuits I have found if I set the 540 to drop the output down to 0-5v?

 

also if any one has time would they mind explaining how to choose a suitable power supply for the spindle.

Swy-wing SW-100A
Constant Current: 100A
Max Current: 110A
BEC output: 5A
Input Volt: 6 - 22.2V (2-6 LIPO / 4 - 20 NIMH)
Low-Voltage Cutoff: Auto detect and set

I have a 15v 23A supply in a 3d printer that my gut says can supply enough current but I am unsure exactly how to do the calculations to make sure I am not way under or over matched with a C5045 KV890 Outrunner

Also would a small VFD be able to drive the motor directly?

 

I havent Mach3 (nor a cnc yet ) but i think it not to difficult to create a little board to generate the PWM

something like this


it can also function as a servo tester relacing the RC filter whit a pontetimeter

 

No, i haven't any code...(yet) i'have design that schematics with a "random" attiny only for the concept..

This schematics trasform a pwm to an analog tension 0-5v, read the value and generate a new pwm

If you give me some specification of the output which mach3 gave, i can design a more accurate circuit!

 

Just thinking out loud...

The Mach3 PWM output will have an amplitude that matches the TTL standard used by the parallel port - some will be to the older 5 Volt standard and the newer parallel ports will be to the 3.3 Volt standard.
This may add a slight complication to the analog sampling method if a PWM driven speed controller is to be universal between different PC's.

Not an obstacle that can't be easily overcome but you may want to take it into consideration at this stage.

Tweakie.

 

Wow... I have just put one together and I'm impressed! The work you did @Robert Hummel is really top notch! The unit feels like its really stiff for the total overall weight and power. Thanks a bunch !!!

After a light test assembly I am pondering how to lock the collet chuck to the motor. I could drill a little dent into the collet shaft to take the set screw but is this enough to stop the spindle as the back part of my motor seems to be quite lose?

I was also wondering should the last ring with the top bearing be placed bearing to motor or the other way around?

In a skateboard wheel it is really important to run spacers between bearings inside the wheels.... Wheels drift more predictably, grip longer and wear evenly. Would this spindle also benefit from packing out any "blank" space on the shaft?

OR am I over thinking this just as someone who is one speed controller away from being able to cut would?

 

ah overthinking.... its what I do!

There is a set screw in the motor housing (the part that spins) but this part is quite loose on the shaft and I was worried that the grub screw was not going to bite into the stock shaft to provide a good grip. I will mark the spot and then drill in a little indent to help lock the grub screw but this still loads the motor bearings with drilling force.

As you say the force should be fairly minimal but if it can be easily eliminated we may get a even stiffer spindle.

For me putting spacers between my longboard wheel bearings when I am skating down a hill at 90+KM and cornering at high speeds (high loading situations) the feel and smoothness is night and day. Surely if a bit of 8mm ID tube just the right length would be a very cheap and worthwhile add on?

I feel that once the two skate bearings are connected with a solid tube to space them properly apart I could also add a locking coller to the stack so the drilling force is isolated to the skate bearings and then the setscrew on the motor would only be there to stop it spinning against the shaft.

I will track something suitable down next week. If it goes well Ill let you know but for now I will just setup without as its very stiff even without the spacers!

Time to stop overthinking and get it working so found the image for a servo pulser you posted a while back, is that what you are using as I think I have most of the parts already.

 

Ok.... here is the progress so far of my over thinking.....



I have taken apart a few sets of skateboard wheels and found a stack of washers, speed rings, steel spacers and the locking collar to make a solid connection between the two skate bearings.



I spent a lot of time finding the right mix of speed rings to get the stack as close as I can measure to the required space between the bearings. I did the final adjustment just as I would a skate wheel, a whisper of slop with no pressure on the bearings and then with light press from my fingers the spacer stops moving.

The tidiest but not so easy to setup solution was to put the locking collar between the skate bearings but between I think it should transfer the push and pull load to the skate bearings not motor bearings. I just don't like relying on the motor bearings that lack a spacer between the front and back bearing stack to keep the spindle locked down.

Just about to pop down to the workshop and drill some holding points for the grub screws then time to get cracking on the servo tester!

 

Not really...
An Optocoupler is enough to overcome this (moreover, it is always a good idea to isolate the PC from external electronics)
The only problem I see is to know the frequency of the PWM signal generated on the LPT to tune the RC filter, after that everything could be done via software

 

When running Mach3 with a Kernel speed of 25kHz you can choose (more or less) any pulse repetition frequency for the PWM signal of between 5 Hz and 4 kHz.

Tweakie.

 

Excellent article by C.J.H. - explains the setting-up and operation of the Mach3 PWM very well.

Just out or curiosity Robert - what is the maximum and minimum RPM of your outrunners ?

Tweakie.