@Kyo I saw your wiring diagram and videos on the first page of this post, but I'm still not clear on what to do and how these things work. Are you able to post something a bit more explanatory? I'm very new to electronics...

Thanks

 

I'm using four of the DQ542MA drivers, four NEMA 24 stepper motors, and a 24V power supply, all from the OpenBuilds parts store. I have the C-beam XL bundle as well.

I have not gotten the board, shield, or software, but I was thinking about an Arduino and whatever would go with that. I'm in Southern California, US, so hopefully things that don't have to be shipped from too far.

 

Plates sourced and driver board donated! Kyo, once I find a reasonably priced Gheko I will be in touch. Now to figure out scaling this bad boy up!

 

I did see that, but I'm not sure how to proceed since there were only two schematics for wiring, but the machine will use four motors. Also, I'm not sure what the purpose of the screw shield https://www.amazon.com/Phantom-YoYo...76507273&sr=8-3&keywords=arduino+screw+shield that you posted about. Is this instead of the Protoneer Pi Hat?

 

Thank you for the detailed reply. It is very helpful, and I like the idea of a shield as it will help make the wiring much easier.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but how is the power supply hooked up to this type of setup?

 

Excellent, thanks

 

90% of parts now here! Just waiting on plates making their final leg of the journey from London up to Scotland and the motors arriving from a UK supplier.

I think I may have the wrong drivers however so will have to do more research I think. Using a protoneer hat with DRV8825 Pololu drivers to run 3A 245oz stepper motors.
Looks like that may burn them so may need to look at other options.

 

I've been wanting to jump in and do a cnc build for a couple of years now. I almost took the plunge when Mark did the original OX build and put together such a great detailed video. Well like all things, when someone comes up with a great idea it doesn't take long before it evolves into something even better. That's one of the things I've so admired about the talent on this site. Well I finally ordered a ton of parts on the Black Friday sale and decided to build KYO's Sphinx cnc largely due to the detailed video and manual he did...great work. I'm totally new to this and probably don't even know what I don't know, but I think you guys will keep me on the right path. Kyo, I planning to build your design but want to scale it up to 1000x1000mm. I'm a little concerned about lead screw whip with 8mm lead screws. I've read here that 1000mm is pretty much the limit for the 8mm screw, but I was thinking about installing the lead screws in tension instead of compression, but am not sure how to accomplish this. I've ordered the plate set from Chris Laidlaw as well. Looking to getting a bunch of parts and getting started.. By the way...kudos to the Openbuilds team for such a great site and store.... ChrisV

 

Thanks Kyo, now I just need some parts.

 

I was trying to figure out the same prior to my build. I put some thought into it and can't see how there would be any difference in accuracy on a 1m build unless you are expecting the screw to bend under tension given the longer length? I have just tested this theory by bending the screws with the carriage at full length away from the motor. No noticeable movement, less than a thou on the DTI.

 

Hey Kylo, Parts are on their way minus the GT3 Closed Loop Timing Belt, GT3 40T Pulley, and the C-beam Belt Reduction Mount. All of which are no longer available on the OpenBuilds store. any chance you could cut and sell me all of the required plates? The .skp files don't seem to have any depth to them?

 

I am thinking of changing mine to use the pully reduction on the Z axis also, I need to reduce the overall height of my build to fit it in a smaller enclosure!

I was thinking of using this: V-Slot Mounts : NEMA23 Motor Mounting Plate

You could use that on top of a standard c-beam end to allow you to invert the motor and tension the belt.

 

Would a GT2 belt be ok too instead of GT3 for Z reduction? i cant seem to find a 40tooth GT3 pulley and the belt. 20 tooth pulley seems to be avaliable but not the 40 tooth. cant find on ebay either

And does anyone the design for Rduction plate so i can cut it myself since its not avaliable on OB store.

 

Nice, I'll keep that in mind. I haven't started digging into the details yet. Thanks for the link, I'll see if this one works as a replacement for the one no longer carried by Openbuilds.

 

my main reason for wanting belt reduction is i think my nema 23 wont be able to handle the weight of the 2.2kw spindle i bought ,wanted to see if belt reduction could solve it withought me going to high torque series nema 23 and then i'd have to change the controll board aswell.

What problem is with the plate? does it bend the leadscrew making it bind?

 

Thanks, Picked one up!

Thanks Kylo! I was having a lot of trouble sourcing the belt. Also, the depths I'm having the hardest time finding are the depths of the counter-sinks for each plate (for the bearings). Both the DXFs and the Sketchup files are flat.

Just FYI if anyone needs a belt, there was a minimum order on the belts. I picked up a bunch if anyone needs them.

 

I've noticed on eBay someone sells these plates and they have one that is 2 inches taller on the z axis. Does anybody know anything about this? Has anyone used that? I could see how you would get more room in the z, but would it be less precise?

 

I have bought the taller plates from Chris and can confirm that they are of very high quality. As for accuracy, I think that it will be a very minimal drop in precision. Obviously, a taller plate will be a bigger lever and so more force will be placed on the wheels and thus more chance of movement. I have used these plates to make a taller printer and have scaled up the Sphinx design to be 1m x 1m, the flex shown on the DTI at various places during testing was minimal. I will retest once operational to give real world working figures.