Bolsoncerrado, I think you can still do better with your prints, check to make sure your bed height before printing is just high enough that a piece of paper has some resistance when you slide it under the nozzles. If not, use the manual adjust to get it just right. One of my cubes wouldn't get the height right when I used the auto-level feature. The results looked similar to your print, although your print does look pretty nice, here is a pic of my very first ABS print.
Wow! Neat ABS print indeed... Im doomed for the moment if the case is MacOS Cubify is shitter than Windows version... but would like to experiment a bit more first before seeking a Windows laptop to aid with... So did you use the same "device" for printing stock filament, @braksmith ?
If I understand your question correctly, the answer is yes. That is an ABS print from an un modified stock Cube3 printer running firmware 1.14b with a stock filament cartridge. Like I said in previous posts, the print quality is incredible on that thing, I used the lowest settings possible to make that. The slow speed and the cost of the cartridges is the reason I hacked my other Cube. I'm still working on calibrating the prints of my FrankenCube so that they look like the one pictured, but everything is wired and 100% working (all lights, fans, motors, etc)
For the chip switcher, I ran wire directly to the printer connectors with a good chip connected to the wires, I then inserted a 0% cartridge into the printer. Connected all the right side pins together, and then just swapped back and forth as necessary until the printer was using the empty cartridge. Afterwards I bought a switch from the local electronics store and hard wired a good chip to the switch and wired it directly to the inside wiring. I wish I had seen the device you posted before I made my mod, might have saved me some time.
I can't 100% verify that will work. It looks like it is missing a connection from the black wire to the printer or his switch, it may be explained that you have to connect it in his description. It does look very similar to what I did though.
Congrats on the successful rook print! You do know that the build plate only has one position, right? On the switch... On a previous test I tried this and was disappointed. This was a left side cartridge; I removed the cartridge before it wrote to it near the end f the print. I changed the left side cartridge to another one. Ran a print; replaced the original cartridge. The printer knew and deducted the percentage from the chip. I'm catching the logic of the switch-flipping. Essentially, there is a hole in the s/w during the "low cartridge" warning. Others have said this hack is only right side compatible. Also tricky is always having a print greater than 3%... or to catch one at 1%... which I had once but it rewrote it too to zero on the next print.
I'm surprised this thread hadn't hit on the heater error that stops prints dead in their tracks. Any consensus on this one?
Even 3D systems uses Meshmixer for making supports. It is a bit tricky and am still tweaking it, but try making a cross and get the settings t where it works for you. Then save them! I forget that last part a lot. The nice think is that it shows you what it is going to do. Once you get the thresholds set for smooth undersides, you've got the right formula. So far, they break away pretty nicely but they always leave a tell-tale. If the crack in the print head is not completely through like mine was, it could hold up for quite some time. I just wasn't going to trust it and I did have a warrantee. No new product should have broken and patched plastic parts. These two screws basically hold the entire print head to the bearing. It is not a simple part but alternate or additional set screws could be added. Hopefully more pictures will find their way to this thread to clarify and upgrade what is otherwise an engineering marvel.
And one other note for posterity: The gap calibration actually makes use of the label attached to the brown Mylar leaf. According to 3D Systems videos, you use the area where the label is to set the gap... I find that ever-so-slight resistance as you fly under the nozzle is just about right. It is just over the 200um height of the layers (glue allowance, probably) at 220um or .0085".
I always wondered why I still hadn't a use for the mylar band and yes, always placed the plate correctly!! can u provide a dual color rook to test? hehe I've used hairspray instead of messy glue since first print and it works just fine. I'll check my head part today and see how is it. on the writing chip thing I've also read it works only on the right one, what a mystery!! so why 1% is better than 3%? also can u expand on the heater failure? haven't heard of it yet.
Just put two rooks on the plate in the software and merge them half way or something. Each can be assigned their own color. You can also use Meshmixer for editing models. Takes a little getting use to but it's a nice tool ..and free. Even the test print and a purge is 1%. Just in case the "low filament" notice is the in on the s/w. My first Cube 3 had several Code-something errors having to do with a heater failure and it does an abrupt abort. I recently encountered it when I put a fan on an ABS project at 70 microns. It really didn't like the fan. During the summer, the ducted fan was very helpful.
if I send a new job today and starts printing in the edge, I'll burn the **** thing lol so meshmixer saves in cube format or what? hehe
MeshMixer is a facet based model manipulator. One of its features is supports. You output files for the Cube software.
The chip switch is definitely right side cartridge only. As soon as it sees the left cartridge it will cancel the print. I even inserted the left cartridge when the print was 50% done, and it immediately canceled my print. Bolsoncerrado, you were able to reflash your printer when it was at 1.14b already??? I need to recheck things on my end, because I wasn't able to do that here. Maybe I have a corrupt file or something. (Actually no need, now that I have converted one of my cubes to reprap, my adventure is over.)
Yeah I just entered the firmware menu and choose the same file from the same USB stick and it just proceeded as usual. now prints are centered and fine even when launched using the Mac Cubify.... I just need to leave the bed on the front part of the machine to prove. my theory that the edge prints only happen if you forget to push the bed back. so did u finally print something decent on the (rep) raped one? hehe
My Cube 3 (1.14b) printer automatically centers the print bed, no need to push the bed back, weird that you have to. I just need to adjust my layer heights before I produce my gcode printfiles with the reprap cube and I should be good. I'm working on a few other things, but I'm going to dedicate some time to printing and adjusting my settings until I can print lego bricks that will connect with factory made legos, that way I know that my dimensions are perfect.
Interesting, thanks. Now to salvage some chips and a clever way to hold everything in place. Anyone come up with a good budget filament that is known to work in this printer?
has it to be 1.60? no one has mentioned this on the YouTube hacks... and at the same. time. no one complained on specific brands of filament required. re the bed bug, I'm still testing, perhaps with the reflash it's gone, I'll check today.
btw last night print in dual color: Taking into account that pics with cameras tend to maximize defect, this was a near perfect print! For one, the back and tummy of the frog is so smooth you cant even feel the layers at 200 micron! After having messed with quite a variety of 3D printers at print3dforum.com I can say its one of the smoothest finishes "out of the box" i've ever gotten! Unfortunately there was some "color contamination" in it, which I guess it has to do with the algorythm that creates the gcode to purge enough material to keep them clear.... On the down side, supports are really hard to remove, and there's a section of supports generated right in the frog eyes that are as solid as the frog itself, denaturalizing its "eye looking" up to a point the frog seems to be crying lol I'm now more anxious to get hands on the chip technique and try more colors. BTW, can you get dual color printing on a raped Cube?
Cube 3 uses 1.75 filament but it is more like 1.70mm. I tried an ebay off-brand and it was way to stiff to feed through the stock feeder. Before I try this again, I would like to know I am working with something that is known to work.
The Cube3 is much better at printing organic shapes that it is in printing geometric shapes. I make a lot of "cubical" things and there are specific rules to making those turn out as best they can.
Please share your marlin as soon as you have it working Cant wait to try it Also please guys share any progress on the chip thing I'm stil curious on why the left seems so "unhackable"
Hello 3d world Semi proud, recent cube owner here. Imagine my eyes lighting up when I saw a recent thread of the filament "fix". Anyways, the chip switch. Does anyone have any sort of instructions? I can get what's needed and follow instructions, even just to give one side the ability to use bulk filament. Im not an electronics "wiz". I would be unbelievably thankful. Thank you ahead of time
I'm thinking an internal wiring with a momentary pushbutton switch on the panel may just do the trick. If this technique pans out, you can hold the "good chip on" position during initiation and when you let go of the switch, it flips back to the 0% chip. This would still allow using stock cartridges that won't be re-written on the right side, and dead 0% refilled cartridges. Thanks to the OP and having done the dismantling to get to the inside, I can tell you that this is pretty simple. Only tip I can add is to use NON-BALL END HEX DRIVERS! Torque on the Cube's screws is all over the map! You don't want to start stripping out the screw heads. Still waiting to see this prove out before I go hacking plastic. ...AND I STILL NEED A FILAMENT RECOMENDATION, PLEASE! sorry for the yelling but GIVE IT UP! I will document the internal hack once we're there.
