Ha! I had a collision alert with knobs as well. Unfortunately, my alert was more of an after the fact alert. I built hold down clams using the same knobs. They were beautiful...until the router hit them. I did seat of the pants engineering rather than drawing it so i would have a chance of spotting the problem like you did.
Surely plastic jaws would be better? I'm sure someone on this Forum could knock out a few sets for you.
An update; I purchased machine bed profiles today and other hardware for the upgrade. Unfortunately the parts I bought from UK shop wont be in my hands till mid December as my nephew had to postpone his visit. I also bought 20mm by 20mm aluminium stock to make the vise sets. I will be making them together with new X and Y gantry plates until mid December to be ready for the upgrade when the rest of the part are here. I done some test cuts with 2mm alu today and realised my circles are not perfect circles. I am using fusion 360 for now to create my g-codes. Below is a part of the gcode for the circles; Code: (Circular1) M9 T1 M6 S10000 M3 G54 M9 G0 X15.25 Y44.7 Z17 Z3 G1 Z1.3 F576 G18 G2 X15.55 Z1 I0.3 G1 X15.7 G17 G3 X16 Y45 J0.3 X14 I-1 X16 I1 X15.7 Y45.3 I-0.3 G1 X15.55 G18 G3 X15.25 Z1.3 K0.3 G0 Z7 Y44.7 Z2 G1 Z0.3 F576 G2 X15.55 Z0 I0.3 G1 X15.7 G17 G3 X16 Y45 J0.3 X14 I-1 X16 I1 X15.7 Y45.3 I-0.3 G1 X15.55 G18 G3 X15.25 Z0.3 K0.3 G0 Z7 X45.25 Y44.7 Z3 As you will see from the below photo, top circles (10 mm) are not exact circles. Below ones are 5mm so its less visible there. I am happy with the cut marks on the sides but they can be smoothed more somehow I believe. The pocketing (in the middle) is not so bad but now I hesitate to mill the gantries from 6mm alu as the circles can be a real problem. (at least cosmetic wise)
Gino, As I am calibrating my machine and also using Fusion 360 I find this interesting and hope to hear more comments. I'm sorry to say I can't help, at least not at this moment. I can tell you that a circle is one of the hardest thing to cut with a CNC as there is not a single straight line cut. It's our go to example when calibrating the machines at the shop. I hope to make a few more cuts tonight and see where I get as the first couple samples are so far off I can't believe machine is cutting so bad (Y 90mm instead of 100 and X 96mm instead of 100). I resist making any changes to the settings as again, this is so unbelievably out!?!? I also wonder why we run 1/8 steps and not 1/16 (or higher), it seem like the resolution would be better with 1/16 than 1/8...I'm sure this has been addressed and there is a **** good reason, I'd just like to understand!?!? Parts look good BTW
Sonny; I find 360 very easy to use and very handy everyday. I like it more and more.. It is very accurate with the CAM operations and very flexible. (I love the simulation) The only thing is there is so much to learn but I am sure we will get there. As per 1/16 I really am not so sure. But circles are really problematic for sure. I think the best solution would be to have a wide selection of tools with different diameters and try to stick with those toolset diameters as much as possible. (I broke one endmill today btw so it can be costly as smaller diameter bits are fragile for us newbies specially when cutting metal )
Haha, small tool are tough for us newbies cutting plastic as well I agree with you, Fusion 360 is such a great tool for CAM programming...I like you am loving it more and more with every use. I just programmed a new test piece, heading down the run it right now
Good luck .. I appreciate if you share the results and any helpful hints on the CAM side of Fusion 360
You know I love to share LOL Here ya go... Cut one (last night) a total mess... As you can see the cut was way off, 100mm in X was actually 90.7mm, and 100mm in Y was actually 95.5mm. I honestly think this was as much Fusion problem as anything, and not from the Fusion side of thing, but from my side of things. I think I just screwed up the programming!?!? Now to tonight cuts, a success considering no tuning has been done. I threw the circle in there for you Gino Here you can see my cuts were far more accurate than the first example. With only being off fraction of a mm I am much happier with these results. I'll run this in HDPE next and see what I get, if the results are the same I'll adjust my GRBL settings Here they are side by side... BTW: I still need to make sure the center cuts out, I forgot to program that step in the process
Ha! Am glad you are getting there for the accuracy.. Now your circles DO look like circles to me.. Far better than mine for sure! When you select the correct tool in fusion CAM setup it is pretty accurate in my case. Are you actually selecting the tool that you are using for the cuts?. You know you need to do that for each setup instance (circular, pocketing etc.)
Gino, Yes I select the proper tool, and even measure it to make sure it's on size (although I don't remember if I measured this tool!?!?). When I can I create a derived operation for the previous one (adaptive roughing) so I don't have to select tool again, unless I'm using a different tool for the next operation. For tonights cut I simply used the Adaptive Roughing and a Derived 2D Contour Operation, as I mentioned it missed a small are in the flat part of the first circle (60mm). It also missed the flat in small circle (40mm) but in this model it would have been a hole so it didn't matter. After further review I think a Derived Pocket Operation would have been better suited for this. I try that next
While waiting new parts to arrive (I keep adding new ones as I design the upgrade) I am playing with fusion to learn it better. I completed the new design in fusion 360 and here is a render from fusion...
Hope this will work and anyone interested in can have a look into the design using the below link. FUSION DESIGN LINK
Thanks Gino, the link works great...now you just need to do a webinar to teach us all how to render ;-)
Well I am a learner myself on the render side, but the key to my renders is to use the correct (or eye-cendy) material from the material libraries for each and every component. Another tip is to use a good virtual studio with appropriate lighting. Btw, could you guys have a look and comment to the (planned) bottom inter-Y-gantry connections? Do you think it will add support and make any difference? I am planning to use aluminium spacers, cut to correct lengths, and a threaded rod in between and both ends. Something like this: Thanks
Well not so easy to calculate, but; The bed profiles and their connection hardware costed me around 100 USD. The gantries, I bought 6 mm aluminium from a local provider (500mmX1000mm) for like 35 USD You can see the prices for all other material used in the frame in the parts store. I am sorry I did not yet have time to prepare a BOM with price breakdown.
Funky new animation Gino... like it mate. Notice you've added four more wheels to the Z, interesting idea, looking forward to see where you take this.
Yeah Fusion is amazing me with it's capabilities everyday.. You can actually define the axis ad make the parts move over the defined axis etc. About the Z wheels.. Yeah I have added them because I just want to make sure I can reduce the wobbling as much as possible. This time with my previous build experience I believe it will be a more sturdy setup with the editions. I have been talking to a tech-school tutor who teaches about CAM and also owns a shop with all kinds of pro stuff and he explained me why and where I might be having problems (backlash issues etc.). I just have to sit and wait till I have the parts in my hands and meanwhile I am spending my time on design, render, animation trio.
Also here are the fusion links for gantry designs and gantry assemblies; (they are downloadable) X PLATE FRONT X PLATE BACK X GANTRY ASSEMBLY Z PLATE Z GANTRY ASSEMBLY Y PLATE Y GANTRY ASSEMBLY RIGHT Y GANTRY ASSEMBLY LEFT
Here is a demo video of the planned lock down mechanism: Also I measured and found out that I can use 20X20 rails between Y gantries so it will be a lot easier than the initial "rod-spacer" design. Here is a pic;
Hi, i would like to advice you to use a single "wide" part to connect the lower ends of sideplates opposed to two extrusions/tubes/etc. In general the lower connect needs to counteract / prevent parallel twist between your sideplates (wether using a single ballscrew or two /each side). A simple 8mm steel plate did a great job on my last mill now i have a 220mm wide 30mm thick aluminium plate beneath my new one. Friend of mine just changed over his mill from an 80mm wide plate to a 240 mm wide one and reports an enormous increase of regidity (both our cnc´s in the 150kg region)
Thanks for the great input @Florian Bauereisen . I need to think of something on piece and "U" shaped thats because I need to "bypass" the mid wheel in between 2 holes I made for that purpose. How about if I connect the two 20by20 extrusions with 6mm aluminium from few points creating a more rigid connection?
How about simply bolting a single 3-6mm steel plate underneath (if you keep the 20/20) Cheap and strong.. only machining needet is a couple of holes which is easy. Having a few points connected leaves you with a ladder frame only. Think about how "wobbly" old ladders become. greets flo
It will look something like this; either 5 mm aluminium or 3 mm steel.. dimensions are 90X836 You may CLICK HERE for the design
OK my new set of gantry plates are ready. The rest of the parts are coming in tomorrow. Hopefully there will be some dismantling and re-building very soon. And these are the clamps as the other design did not work very well for me (although I spent few days on them to build but they just dont grip well enough). Hopefully these will do a better job.