Okay, that's an impressive solution .. and I like that it can be mounted directly onto the e3d v6 fan with a very simple to print part.

Done. Bought it.. and will integrate it.

 

So, I wanted to setup a flying extruder and originally had the idea to use pulleys and a counterweight to offset the motor a bit. But I forgot to model in a mounting spot on my carriage when I did the last rework. I was bummed because I didn't want to go through another remove, purge loctite, and mount my set of steel balls for the magnetic joints... But then it hit me, the next best thing to a flying extruder is one attached to the top by elastic!



I have the bowden tube's length to where it pulls down on the effector just enough to keep it taught and apply a bit of upward force on the effector, but not enough for that force to cause issues. So far it's looking great! the tube stays fairly straight across the whole bed, I just started a 10 print of some parts for a C-bot we'll see how well it holds up.

 

That's pretty slick. Might end up trying out something like that myself.

Jerry, what did you use for fan mounts on your full size effector? I saw the ducts for the compact one, do those work as well?

 

Paging Jerry426 -- Are you still on the forum?

I've just about finished my build based on yours --- and now I'm up against my Nemesis(tm) ... WIRING. Anybody have guidance on the best way to wire up these beasts?

For now, I'm going to be using my Ramps 1.4 board + LCD panel. Eventually, I'll probably switch to the Due WiFi. I have a 24V power supply for the SeeMeeCNC heated build plate and for the electronics and extruder ( I settled on an 0.40mm E3D V6 w/ 24V heater cartridge ). But wiring all this up cleanly, like all 3D printer builds I do, is the thing I'm always apprehensive about.

-M

 

I hope you weren't planning on running the Ramps board at 24v unless you modify it to handle it.

 

Elmo,

I followed the instructions in this video to convert my RAMPS to 24V .. it meant switching out a fuse, and I use a Taurino for the Mega since it can be powered by 24V.

 

The replacement components need to be rated *OVER* 24v, not at 24v. 30v or more would be good.

 

Yep ... the replacement parts are all 35V rated.

 

For some reason I stopped getting email notifications about posts to this thread.

I've been very busy - will try to remember to check this more often.... and try to find time in the next few days to answer any questions people asked me.

Martin, how is the progress with your build ?

 

I think this is a bug in the system. I will stop getting notifications even though I check the forum after every notification I do get.

 

Almost finished! I've started a separate build thread in 3D printers ... I think your variant is different enough to deserve it's own. So many parts have changed.

Since I'm doing a 24V build, I've switched to matching your hardware for controlling the printer. I bought a Duet Wifi, with a PanelDue + 7" panel. I tested the stiffness, and decided to go without the diagonal bracing. The printer is square to within a very tight tolerance.

By using the Ice Water + Boiling the ends method, I have a nice tight fit on the TRAXXAS ends.

 

Hi guys, I am going to build myself a Delta-six as well. First of all, props to Jerry on his work remodelling all of the parts. My second vertex is being printed right now, I chose the stock one since it is less plastic to print than Jerry's version, but the more I look at Jerry's the more I like them. Are they interchangeable? If so then I'll use the stock ones at the top and Jerry's at the bottom.

Another question. I am leaning towards magnets joints instead of traxxas, what are your opinions? I don't believe Jerry's carriage supports magnetic joints do they?

 

See if this View of the 2 of them overlaid will help you see the difference. The original version is in White & Jerry's version is in Red. The vertical connections are the same. You could probably use one with the other, but your horizontals will probably be different lengths & the idler offset will be a little different. I think you are asking for more problems if you try interchanging them.


I checked what the horizontal difference would be & I measure Jerry's horizontals would be 3.16mm shorter than originals if you used Jerry's vertex parts on top.

 

Interesting, thanks. I'll stick with the stock ones.

 

6 Vertexes done!

IMG_20161026_171636 by Nilz posted Oct 27, 2016 at 3:52 PM

 

I am using 288mm long magnetic rods. Can anybody tell me how long my horizontal V-slots need to be? I've tried figuring out with the delta calculator from David, but I can't figure out how to calculate one variable when others are fixed. It seems none of the parameters are dependent of each other.

 

I also have 288mm log magnetic rods (wonder if we got them at the same place My horizontals are 300mm and I have a workable 240mm diameter print area. The arms are almost horizontal to reach that far.

EDIT: Was just watching the printer. The arms can actually reach further out but I had issues with the magnets not holding when I did that.

 

Thanks! I've got mine from Ultibots. I was thinking I needed the horizontals to be around 320mm long but I guess I'm going for 300 then.

 

I went with 300 because it worked out nicely when using 1m V-Slot. I cut exactly 300mm off 3 pieces and then trim the remaining 700mm to the same length. Gives over a 250mm height.

 

Hey guys I've started this build and I had a few questions. Does anyone have an effector/carriage for ultibots magnet rods?

Also I've no way of cutting aluminum plates, nor do I have any handy, so I'm gonna print the backplates out of 100% infill abs or petg. I have the mini-v wheel kit with bearings but it doesn't have those spacers, accordingly I'd like to print those too. I've printed all manner of nuts bolts sleeves, etc but I don't know the size I'll need if anyone has a measurement handy, otherwise I'll take a caliper to everything and try to get it close. I'm thinking plate-washer-bearing-washer-plate just bolted on should do.

Also, how high have you guys made these things? I've got the material for 500 shorts and 1500 verticals. I'd be happy to cut that down to a more reasonable size, but it'd just generate scrap metal and free up vertical space at home that I wouldn't use anyway!

 

If you have the same ultibots magnet rods as me, 288mm, then you should use about ~300 for your short ends. If you want to make a tall printer I would print more vertices or go with Jerry's vertices. Arondite uses magnetic rods and he's shared his designs, I believe on page 17 you can find his effector, and I don't know where but I seem to recall he also shared his carriages.

 

Any chance you have this stl file?

 

well finished my big6 1000x500, rumba board running repetier -- 360mm dir print area, but only got a 300mm glass bed.
will post some pics if I can workout how to do it
malc

 

Might it be possible for you to share some pictures of your top idler setup? I am trying to figure out how to attach the belt up there.

This is my progress so far. I still need a few motors and I'll probably end up adding a second row of 2020 v-slot to create more space for electronics and a power supply.
I went with an MKS SBASE 32bit controller, sourced from *****. I wanted to go for a Duet but didn't want to break the bank too much

 

Here are a couple pictures of the idler wheel. If I remember right, it goes bolt, fender washer, nut (on inside of vertices to hold bolt/washer in place), nylon nut, shim, bearing with idler pulley, shim, nylon nut.

From the top...


From the side...


And just because you mentioned the electronics bay, here is a shot of my lower vertices...



And under the heated bed...

 

So I've made some progress and I've got my Delta Six running. I still need to tidy up the wiring, install a proper heated bed etc, but it works as is.

I've been using the effector which Arondite was using for a while, but my blower fans are larger than his and they where constantly cooling down the hotend. So I designed my own one and I wanted to try and incorporate the print cooling fan as much as possible. I got the idea from this cooling duct I had on my i3 for a while. This is the end result, which I'm extremely pleased with:

DSC_0129l by Nilz posted Jan 3, 2017 at 4:17 PM

DSC_0128l by Nilz posted Jan 3, 2017 at 4:16 PM

DSC_0130l by Nilz posted Jan 3, 2017 at 4:17 PM

If anyone's interested, the design can be found here

 

The effector looks really nice. Anyway you'd be willing to remix it to use a BLTouch? If not, would you be willing to share the STEP files that can be edited?

 

I'll try to if you can give me the correct specs. I tried Googling them but there seem to be variations of the specs.

 

Nice! I've actually been having the same exact problem, especially since I threw on a volcano hotend. I really like your effector, I've been scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to add a layer fan duct thing, exactly like you did in yours, for quite some time now.

Another solution to the layer fans affecting the hotend, is to wrap the heater block of the hotend with silicon or fiberglass tape. that will protect it from the airflow and give you extremely stable temperatures. I'd suggest doing that a bit with yours anyway, it looks like the heater block is touching the effector a bit in your pics.

 

Awesome. Here are the specs I have successfully used on a different design: