Cube 3 / Pro hacks

I have a clone copy of the SD if you need files; Original 1.14B.

I would never consider hacking the remote UI just to allow me to send the data via WIFI.
The difference is "print to file" or "print to device". If you print to device, the device needs to give up data.
If that data is not present or does not match the remote UI's user input, the remote UI can hold up the send-to-print step. If the remote UI was simply sending the file, no problems.
All we need is an app that communicates with the printer to take whatever file we shove to it.

I'm just following the 10 kilometer high logic of what must happened in SW.
Removing the material watchdog may not be something we want to do if we depend on WIFI transfers.

 

Hello. Thank you So much for all your hard work, I bought my daughters a Cube 3 so they could get into 3d printing, I loaded both cartridges and began to print. 20 mins in I noticed nothing was coming out. tried again and nothing.So I tried the other side and 10 mins in the same exact thing happened. I was able to get the filament out of the tube and it was so Brittle it just broke into pieces. going up the tube it had broken a few times and thats why it got stuck. Must have been really old filament. I called 3d Systems and they would do anything, they said because when they discontinued them, the price of them dropped and people had gotten them really cheap. So, Just because some people got a discount you can kiss your warranty goodbye LOL. oh yeah he did send me a link on unjaming!! But like i told 3D Systems, the filament is beyond brittle and Must be very old if its just snapping LOL I own 4 Cube 3 and cube x 3d printers that I registered with 3d systems. you would think they would see that and actually want to keep me as a customer, could of just said sure we will replace the filament and just ship back the broken cartridges. the one has 99% left and the other 97% Left.

 

Hey, I downloaded the Cube toolbox 1.11. under the Patch firmware Tab, I opened the firmware 1.14b. then at the bottom I hit patch firmware. a second later it said firmware patched. i loaded it on usb and updated my cube 3 firmware. how do i know if it worked. if i take out the filament cartridge, it says empty. i didnt try yet but it wouldnt print like that right. can someone please give me a hand. thank you

 

Go for the simple upgrade... v1.0. That only disables the cartridge write. That means you 99% and 97% cartridges will never change from 99% and 97%. This is pure heaven! And I like simple fixes.

That filament was old, yes (got lots of it here too). 3D Systems was getting fed up with the sheer number of warrantee calls. They replace my white one twice! They were starting to get wise after that and started saying these were purchased under liquidation and warrantees were no longer being honored. Problem was, no one really knew if theirs' was a liquidation printer or not.

I had a cartridge from a 3d party with an un-programmed chip, and they shipped out a new one without too much fuss.

Overall, I've had pleasant conversations with 3D Systems support. But I was in front of the wave. Both replacements came from 3D Systems stock and were old as the hills. I sent in good filament and got junk in return without excuses. So far the 3rd white printer is holding up. When I registered it, they rolled back my warrantee to the date of the original... which is actually illegal in the USA. Any new product gets a 30 day shakedown warrantee no matter what, even if it is a replacement on the last day of the previous warrantee. It is meant to protect consumers from "SOA" short of "DOA" (Sick On Arrival) products that were manufactured on Friday afternoon... just after lunch... which I am beginning to believe all Cube 3's were built on a Friday afternoon... after lunch.

 

I already installed your 1.11 firmware. Does it matter? What does the 1.11 do differently? Should I install 1.0 instead?

When you do the patch, how long does it usually take the program to complete. When I did it, it was not even a second and it said complete. Did it really do it?

 

The patch is very fast.

Just find the original firmware by its original name and use the V1.0 toolbox. Load the output file onto the flash drive and go to setup on the printer and under firmware, select USB. This is a forced install routine. So the more confident you are that you have the right files to start with at every step, it will work.

Testing is easy. Print a nice vase with the 99% cartridge and look at the screen where the cartridge status is. It will still be 99% and you have a pretty vase.

 

The first picture is when I try to print from the USB using a flash drive, I goto my file and hit print, then it starts telling me to change my cartridge and this.
The second picture is from my laptop I'm trying to print the cartridge adapter piece that was in pla, I have no idea why it is even talking about abs. Losing my mind with this. Lol
Hello, I'm having a hard time. I installed the new firmware 1.11. I just tried to print something and it isn't letting me print. When I try to print from my laptop over wifi, I hit build, it generates it, then if the original build is in pla it says that it's in abs and I need to install abs. I have both sides in, abs is 100% and pla is 97%. Here are the screen shots I keep on getting. I'm going nuts Lol!!

 

The fun of this is you can run your own filament of course

I'll send some help later, echei.

Thanks

 

Will the new firmware 1.11 not let me print if it's a new cartridge at 100%?

 

Scooter, firmware won't work with 100% carts. You need to print anything else to decrease that a bit.

 

Just roll back to stock 114B and do some prints with all your carts if you want to use them.

 

I shut off my printer 3 times and it popped back on by itself not sure hong long after.

 

Are you using the MPLABX IDE? If you haven't tried it, you can actually load the hex file in and run the debugger. You can set breakpoints and everything! With no source code whatsoever. It's amazing! The only change you need to make is to turn off the WDT in the config section of the hex file (the debugger doesn't work with it turned on). And you need the PICKit3 physically connected to the ISP pins, of course.

You can set the debugger to halt after it flashes the fw, and then most of the debug views will be populated: execution memory, data memory, cpu registers, peripherals, etc. You can even step through execution, instruction by instruction, and watch the stack pointer move, and the cpu registers change. I was messing around with it, trying to figure out which pins do what. I've got quite a few of the peripherals figured out.

I was also trying to figure out what the login/pass for the telnet server was. I let the code execute and then tried to login, and then manually broke into the debugger and I could see what I typed for login/pass in the data memory! I couldn't figure out where it was getting the login/pass to compare it to, though. I tried stepping through the execution, but figuring out assembly is just a bit beyond me. But they give you quite a bit of disassembly information.

I'm attaching some dumps of the data I gathered. If you want more, just let me know. (I'm not posting the entire execution memory dump... it's *huge*).

 

@eychei can you link me to a wetransfer or mega of the original 1.14B SD contents? or any ORIGINAL SD content?

 

Check you PM, Bo.

 

Thanks To!

 

Sure, I'll PM it to you. It's the original 1.14B hex with the WDT bit flipped, so you still need to complete the first-run wizard. I recommend doing that first and then dumping the hex file via MPLAB IPE, or you'll have to do the wizard every time you want to use the debugger.

 

I just remembered that I left out a small but very important detail about the hex files. The hex files from the .ar file have the config memory row in the wrong place. Any changes you make never actually get applied. In the hex file I got from dumping the flash via MPLAB IPE, the config memory row is the first row after the last ELAR. (In the original hex it's the very last data row before the EOF tag.)

Anyway, I sent you a working hex with the WDT turned off, so you can diff it for yourself. I just wanted to follow up in case anyone else wanted to try it.

 

Straggling with the same issue here, cannot make it debug. What do you mean by wrong place? Address actually is correct. I tried disabling watchdog and enabling debug, but nothing worked. Can you also share the file with me please?

 

Well thanks to this I just successfuly printed with wood!

 

Excellent. Which setting and which filament (specifically)?

 

Used the regular setting for PLA, it's wood filament from MG Chemicals, I figured I could just use materials that match up with the PLA and ABS printing temperatures

 

Guys, I am very sorry for the off, but I'm pretty new to the 3d printing in general. Testing the firmware and doing some prints that I need at the moment. This Cube 3 slicer is a disaster!!! Drove me crazy already. Even with the best settings I'm getting this gaps:

What's your experience? How do you deal with it? Can I use any 3d party slicer? May be you have presets/settings?
Please share and again very sorry for the off.

 

No, you are pretty much spot on about the quality at this scale. I've learned to design to the Cube's peculiarities.
As a reference, it would appear that each trace is 0.45mm, and a dual trace is required for user object details (as opposed to supports/fill).
The makes a 4-deep wall 1.8mm. This is fairly strong. It tolerates tapers, but outward tapers curl inwards if not cooled sufficiently.
It loves to print organic shapes. Geometric shapes.... not so much. Long narrow "planks" require "stitching" to merge the layers.
The Cube 3 defaults to geometric accuracy. It is modeling walls without regard for structural integrity. Small inside diameters suffer a lot.

The real bug in this code is the pause where the backpressure in the line continues to spew during the "pen up" command pause.
That "start-end" point on the print just blobs.
And the lousy support system which actually induces cartridge failures.

 

Thank you. That I can get from Digikey.

 

Would it be possible to remove that "Please wait for printjets to cool down" thing?It's annoying that you have to wait for the printer to cool down before you can use it again.