Hi Evilc66,

Thank you very much. I'm currently doing the CAD in Fusion360 and I corrected two errors in the parts list I put in my previous post for the Misumi parts.

Have a great day.

Bertrand

 

Hi Bertrand

I will start building this printer too when the material is available again. Is it possible to share the CAD files?
I would like to make some small modifications.
My question is too, how is the X-axis connected to the gantry plates of the Z-axis. From the inside of the C-Beam or by using the bigger gantry plates but Idon't see any overhang on the outside.

Regards
Dirk

 

Hi DirkDG,

Based on the model I am making, you need to use t-nuts in the C-Beam and flat M5 screws on the plate that is part of the C-Beam kit. There are 8 holes in total that line up with the C-Beam slots that you would use. Not having actually physically built this, I would assume that you complete the plate with the wheels and then secure it to the other C-Beam (Z axis) and then slide the wheels into the Y axis C-Beam.

Of course I will share when finished.

Regards,

Bertrand

 

Thanks a lot. I was just wondering how to level the X-axis later on. Probably you have to get into the C-Beam with an allen key to adjust this.

I also have a question to Evilc66

Is it possible to drive all the axis with Nema17 steppers. I would like to do the following. I have a CNC Machine Xlarge (still building). This is using Nema 23steppers with DQ542MA drivers. My controller is a Smoothieboard. I would like to use the same Smoothieboard for both. If I can use Nema17 steppers then these steppers will be connected to the onboard drivers. It is then just a question of providing power to the CNC or 3D. I will need to flash (and config) my Smoothie each time I switch but this is a question of writing a script that will do this for me. For the endstops I will wire them in serial (open when home) and move it away from home when not used.
Maybe complex but feasable. (+250€ gained for other stuff)

 

Hi Evilc66

Thanks for the info. I will go go for a seperate installation then.

 

Hello Evilc66 and others,

I have completed the CAD design in Fusion360. Here is the link for anyone to download in whatever format they want it seems. http://a360.co/2hUSK6Y

I have used all OpenBuild components as created by volunteers so everything should be exact to the actual parts you will need to order. I created the Misumi T-plates. I have used mostly 10mm low profile screws but reality may require 8 mm. Please order enough of each in case.

I did not model the bed nor the extruder as this will vary per build.

Please let me know if there are any glaring issues with this model.

Thanks to Evilc66 for the construction.

Have great holidays.

Bertrand

 

I am building a similar but bigger printer... just wondering how you are finding the print quality? Do you have any pics of larger prints?

Antony

 

I tried to download from the site and ok I got past the fact the download has now extension but when I try to open it. has an error and just fails I tried Inventor and SAT. I have Inventor 2015 but the SAT should work... the OpenBuilds SAT's work from their download.

Antony

 

Cool just interested/excited in anticipation.

I run a Geeetech 3D Touch on my Cutom Lulzbot TAZ6 Remix. The which is exactly the same as the BLTouch and after about 3 weeks of full on printing it only missed a beat when I hit a clamp. I pulled it apart and put it back together... nothing was bent and I just reset the heights etc and it's working again as good as new.

 

Hi,

I don't know how Fusion360 does the different conversions so I can't help you there. Sorry. I could, if someone were to let me know where I can put it, zip up the actual Fusion360 F3D file for access. I think it is too big to put here. I just tried and it is over 15 meg as a SAT file.

Regards,

Bertrand

 

Nope that worked fine... thanks Ill have a play with my design.

Antony

 

Build area will be exactly 500x500x500mm... I have a 24v 500x500mm heatbed from Wombot.

Are you still going to do a 2:1 gearing?

 

Hi Evilc66,

Did you see this printer? Looks a lot like yours but less rigid.
2016 Newest TEVO Black Widow Large Printing Area 370*250*300mm OpenBuild Aluminium Extrusion 3D Printer kit printer 3d printing-in 3D Printers from Computer & Office on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Yours is much better built.

Good night.

Bertrand

 

I went and met a guy yesterday that has had one of these since about October and uses it everyday and when I say everyday... that's close to 24/7.

His problems:

Wiring not so much the wire but the plugs and also where they are situated caused many issues over time and he has had to cut out the plugs and just join the wires direct. Both on the X axis for the extruder and out of the control box at various spots.

Frame not stiff enough and has added the hidden 90deg corners as well as external corner plates.

Extruder many small issues mainly with manufacture tolerances either too tight or too loose... he is going to replace with a Titan.

Power supply already burnt out the 300Watt and replaced with a 450Watt.

His likes:

The idea... says it on paper should be better than it is... the company is just using cheap crap where they can to compensate for cost of other parts to meet a price point.

Hotbed this is the winner... he recons it's the best hotbed he has seen ever... he has 7 other printers in his house. After seeing it myself, if they are available to buy as a replacement might be a good purchase.

Antony

 

Hello,


I’m thinking about building my first 3d printer, based on this amazing builds. I haven’t click on the ‘buy’ button yet, but the cart is almost ready.

Right now, I have a question about the two C-beam actuator bundles working in parallel for the Z-axis. Is it possible/allowed/advised to had a physical link between these two motors ? Ideally, I was thinking simply about two GT3 pulleys bolted to the two motors’ shafts, and a belt. But I don’t know if there is enough room to fit a pulley between the ¼”-8mm flexible coupling and the motor itself. Possible ? Do you have any other suggestion ?

As I live in Spain, and shipping is quite expensive, I would like to place one only order, so I am trying to figure out all the parts I need.


Thank you!

 

Thank you, evilc66 !
I'll guess I'll stick to your original design for now. It seems to work brilliantly so no need to modify it.

About the motor on the Y axis, is it strong enough to handle a heavy bed ?
I don't know yet how I will build the bed, but it may be heavy (reusing materials in the garage). Note that I am not looking for a fast printer. Just a precise and reliable one.

Just a quick question for a beginner: the black cube you printed to test the print quality, is it completely empty ? If yes, how did you print the top layer without it collapsing ?

Yes I'm a real beginner

edit: to wire the smoothieboard, do you plug the two Z-axis motors in one only output ? I guess it is not possible and you have to use two outputs (one for each motor), but I'd rather ask.
Asking just in case i want to put 2 motors for Y axis. Or maybe 2 extruders one day, i don't know.

Thank you !

 

Hi Jacques

I am currently building one myself. The current Smoothieboard V1 doesn't support natively the steppers. The current is about 2.8A. If you have time the Smoothieboard V2 will have other drivers and they will be able to drive them. See the Smoothie site Smoothieboards - Smoothie Project
I am using external drivers DQ542MA. They are wired in open collector mode. You can connect 2 drivers on 1 output ( the 4 breakout pins on the board).
This works without any extra hardware. The outputs are 3.3V and the only option is open collector. (put an o after your pin)
If you think the Y-axis will be very heavy you can choose the high torque stepper. These have 3A requirements. This type of steppers is also used on the OX CNC.

Regards

Dirk

 

I have finally started to see my bits arrive from Openbuilds and other spots. I have designed new top and bottom plates to replace the STD C-beam endplates to get away from using angle brackets everywhere... I'll start a build thread soon.

I have held back on the electronics trying to get a feel for what I need... and this is my weakness. What are the make and model Nema 23 motors you are using for the Z axis. What drivers are you using on the smoothiboard?

 

There are 2 Nema 23 on OB store NEMA 23 Stepper Motor or NEMA 23 Stepper Motor - High Torque Series I would assume the smaller one.

Ok so if you are using the STD smoothiboard maybe my MKS 1.4 board I have will work... with the limits as you noted.

 

Thank you for your replies !

Regarding the heatbed, do you think it's okay if i buy four 10x10cm mini heatbeds (on the openbuilds store) and stick them under the 30x30cm aluminum bed ? I know the alu plate wouldn't be heated on the entire surface, but aluminum has a pretty good thermal conductivity so I am hoping 4 mini heatbeds would be enough. What do you think ?
It is okay if it takes longer to warm up.

Thank you,
Jacques

 

Complicated to spend 40USD when you can buy a 300x300heat bed for about 43 to 50USD off ebay and even cheaper if you look around.

 

Yes, but I live in Spain, so i try to have as less shipment as possible, because it is expensive. When you buy parts in multiple online shops, international shipping costs quickly add up... That's why the openbuilds mini heatbeds seem like a good option.

Additionaly, I am a bit scared to buy and use an unknown chinese heatbed from amazon/aliexpress, etc..., knowing that I plan to run the printer while I am out of the apartment.