The hacked firmware ONLY patches the cartridge rewrite, period. To use third party software you need to reencode the files, and it's not easy. Re the right cartridge, yes of course I select the correct color... I think wifi is not the same as USB, but USB is a pain when the printer is on a different room. In fact it's also a pain you need to go to the printer fiscally to start a print when you know there's glue or hairspray already on it!! Eychey do you think you could remove that check? Lol
Hello, I'm having a problem I see others are having. I try and print with the new firmware hack and if i try to print pla It says error that I need to switch to abs and then vice versa. I switch and then it says I need pla. I'm going nuts lol I have abs and pla Both at 96%.
As I know there is a work in progress to make Cube 3 compatible with different software. Encoding/decoding of the .cube3 files is already achieved, the rest is specific to the slicer-generated g-codes that need to be adapted to Cube 3.
Hey guys I just figured out that you can print to the Cube 3 with the hacked firmware directly over usb using Windows 10's own 3d printing software 3D Builder. It allows you even more printing options such as priniting completely solid or completely hollow. Try it out.
Jacksonianbriggs, how did you make that work? I've been looking at this also and it just started looking more and more complicated to get the driver to work with 3D Builder. This deserves a thread of it's own!
This could help I think,seems to be a video tutorial on how to use the Cube 3 with 3D Builder. 3D Builder Tutorial Part 1: Viewing your first 3D object
Tom Dirriwachter, I just plugged in a usb b to usb b connector to the Cube 3 (articulating with the printers usb b port located laterally to the power port) and Windows 10 automatically downloaded the drivers necessary to be able to recognize the Cube 3's hardware. As soon as the installation was completed, I proceeded to opening 3D Builder and to my surprise found that the Cube 3 was automatically recognized and initialized for me with the correct print plate dimensions and two additional features which are the ability to print completely solid or hollow. I did not have to perform any additional steps other than plugging a usb b connector to the Cube 3 and simply letting Windows 10 install the drivers for it without my assistance.
usb a (pc side) to usb b (Cube 3's own port located next to power port) Also I believe that eyechei, Kiza, and Geezer70 (awesome people by the way) unlocked the ability for the Cube 3 to be able to communicate through its usb b port. I am not sure if that capability that it has now was unlocked by the re enabling telnet (port 23) however, but I have noticed that it is unlocked now and makes the Cube 3 be recognized by other third party softwares such as Cura. I have tested it out with Cura and found that Cura automatically recognizes the Cube 3's dimensions and specifications alluding to its print temperature print speed and etc. I also allows for you to modify these values truly making the Cube 3 open source without having to gut your Cube to convert it to a crude version of reprap (no offense to reprap or any of you who managed to do it , more power to you!)
Unfortunately for me, the Cube 3 goes wrong with the hacked firmware directly over usb using Windows 10's own 3d printing software 3D Builder.
Interesting and makes perfect sense. J.B. In the literature, it only refers to this port as "future expansion". They must have meant 3rd party This gives me new hope for 3D Builder.
The firmware version is the V 1.14b. 3d Builder recognizes the printer, but when I try to start printing, it faults.
Just to say somethng here. We did not change anything in the firmware for usb printing. I dont think it has something to do with the telnet port either. I did connect my printer over usb sometime ago and could print from CubePro software. Maybe the drivers have been changed by microsoft recently. somebody should check the version which installs autmatically. By the way, can someone just make a small video of Cura working with the printer. What options are available? What can be controlled? Homing? Purging? Axis steping? I did buy simplyfy3d but if cura is better i will start using it.
Cura shouldnt be "better", just slight different. So far, i think S3D still wins on amount of features aboard.
Guys, I wonder if anyone can tell me where to find the spare parts nozzles for cartridges of 3 cube. Thank you
Just an update on using cura. I did try cura 2.3.2 , 2.4beta,15.0.4 I can't get the printer recognised on stock firmware.
If you have used this printer for a while, you will probably already have collected several cartridges. If you were fortunate enough to save a few at more than 0% or had the foresight to -not- throw them away at 0%, you will have collected several spare parts kits already. I seem to get into every cartridge I've received to make it work reliably. And I've only thrown away a few items I found not useful anymore. Look onto local sales when they come along. Best Buy got rid of their inventory by offering local pickup only selling under USD$20. I've picked up a few sales at $25-$35. Otherwise, here in the USA, B&H Photo is probably the best source for right now.
A while back I traced the lines from the USB device port (the one next to the power connector) and they go to the bluetooth module. I assumed it was for updating the firmware on the BT module and forgot about it. A few weeks ago I got an itch and pulled the EMI can off the BT module, and there's an NRF8001 btle chip and a PIC24FJ32 under it. The USB lines run to the PIC, which controls the bt chip. I didn't think it did anything else, but it sounds like it is also some kind of USB bridge. I dumped the USB descriptors, and it has a Microchip VID/PID. (I forgot to actually look at the device class.) Anyway, I mapped the ICSP pins on the package to the pins on the module. By a strange coincidence, I'm planning on soldering them on tonight. If all goes well I should be able to do the same dance I did with the PIC32; read out the hex, disable the WDT, load the modified hex in MPLAB X, and turn on the debugger! That should let me see the peripheral registers, and then I'll be able to see what's turned on. Maybe I can figure out how to get firmware on it that makes it a proper USB serial bridge.
Welcome thanks for the release. works great. now i can run those printers all the time not worry bout the expensive filamet
