No the new version is fine too. The only difference is that you also have to change the filament driver with the new version.
Guys, does anybody know if the 12V, supplied to our hotends, is variable or just on/off? I am thinking of using these to convert hotends to 24V: 3D Printer parts heating controller MKS MOSFET for heatbed extruder MOS module | eBay That can also be used for heated bed. Wish me luck
It wouldn't be easy to modify the Cube to use 24V for the hotends. The 12V rail goes into an LDO on the extruder carriage that outputs 9V. (I think the 9V is for the LEDs, mostly.) Increasing that rail to 24V would probably cause that LDO to overheat. And the LEDs are what are used for bed levelling and z-gapping, so you can't just disconnect them.
Perhaps just a new line and a laptop-like power outlet just for the bed, bt you still need to control it with an SSD relay I guess...
Not planning to disconnect them. I will use 2 boards I have mentioned above for 24V hotends. Plus using additional temp controller for the 24V heated bed. Increasing PSU power to 9.2A. Hopefully that's going to be enough.
Does anyone know the screw size for that holds the filament feed to the cartridge? I managed to drop one, and it followed my missing socks to another dimension.
One thing to be aware of with heated beds... Neodymium magnets loose their hold at elevated temperatures. I'm talking in the 80*C range, they are very weak. They make some higher temperature magnets but not by much. All I am saying is that you might consider locking the bed down by an additional means.
I think I will be replacing the bed completely. I want to machine the similar handle for the bed, but without magnets, still adjustable.
Ordered all the parts, will start overhauling very soon! ^_^ Still facing a problem, I cannot find 6" heated bed, 24V, 5.4-5.5 Ohm. I don't want the amperage to be more then 4.5A. Anybody have seen anything like that?
Another thought... and some of you may already know... How will the plastics on the cube housing behave when you put a 100*C radiation oven right below them? Any other thermally sensitive components above the build plate?
Holy crap that is overkill! I haven't seen anyone use power resistors for a heat bed in a long time. PCB heaters are cheaper, thinner, and heat much more evenly. This reminds me of a temp controller I made a few years ago for a crappy soldering iron I had. It used an external PID controller, and the same kind of solid-state relay. I got both in a single eBay auction... it couldn't have been more than $30 for the pair, I think. It did the job, but it used a thermocouple (instead of a thermistor), so it was very slow to respond to temp changes. The PID controller performed better than just doing a binary search for the right voltage setting, but the interface was still quite hard to use. Honestly, if I were to do it again, I would just use an Arduino and a RAMPS board (with Marlin firmware) for the PID control. That setup is easier to use, easier to configure, and the PID auto-tuning is quite good. If you throw in Repetier for tethered control, you can even see the temp graph over time, the on/off periods, etc. And it would probably be significantly cheaper.
Melting some of the housing might help with the noise! The plastic box under the bed doesn't actually have anything in it other than the Y motor, the linear rail, and some LED strips. I would think most of the radiant heat would rise up to the top, and the extruder fan is on almost all the time. Maybe if the Cube was completely enclosed, it might raise the ambient temp up to the point where it could affect the electronics. But I run mine in a closet with the door closed, along with my Printrbot (with a 150x250mm heated bed), and a 40W filament dryer, and the ambient temp rarely gets above 90F. I doubt you're moving up the derating curve at that temp.
I think I do. But that's because I broke mine taking it apart. It's really hard to get the black and white parts apart. There are 2 screws holding them together that are really hard to see. And there's a screw behind the temp cutoff switch that holds the little metal holder in place. I'll post some pictures when I get home tonight.
You can see the two screws that hold the black part on in the first image. (You don't want it to look like mine... I forced it and broke the tabs off.) The second pic shows where the screw is on the metal holder for the temp cutoff switch. I cut the wires to remove it, and then noticed the wires were hiding the mounting screw. Boo!
FYI, printrbot is having a sale on their PCB heaters. The 6x6" is only $15. It's 240W @ 12V. I have a couple of these, and they work very well. I believe 6x6" should fit on a naked Cube... I'll have to check if it will fit on one with the plastic on. Printrbot Heat Plate | Printrbot
Thank you so much for the pictures! It is really helpful. How about the black plastic nozzle cover. Does it simply unclip? Regarding the heated bed, I did buy this: 150 mm X150 mm 24V 100W 3M tape NTC100K in center 3D printer Heater Pad 1 PC
