I am sure there is something better out there, but I've been using this tape via Amazon. I've had issues with it not sticking to the mdf spoil board on smaller projects. That's why I used the cross strips to stop the project from twisting. I also try to mount the tape so if my profile cut is going through the project it won't catch the tape. I had a project get ripped off and thrown early on.
It comes off fairly easy and doesn't leave a residue of any sort.

A lot of people reference this video by Mark Lindsay as the ultimate way to mount projects. I haven't given it a try yet.

 

Ordered the stuff to try Mark Lindsay's method, will report back my findings whenever I get a chance to try it.

@jamesdjadams I found the files for the dust boot. I will see if I can get them printed later this week. Send me a PM and we'll figure out the details.

 

@jamesdjadams @TrishC The glues that Mark Lindsay uses in that video I posted came today. I mounted a project with just two strips and I wasn't able to remove it from the spoil board without a putty knife it was so secure. I don't know that I'll ever use the double sided tape again. Mind is blown.

 

@Kevin Henning The double sided tape does NOT work well with aluminum. We haven't tried this new method with aluminum yet. After seeing how well the projects stick to the surface, I am fairly confident it would work. I am going to try cutting some brass next week using this method and will report back how it goes.

 

Hey guys, Just some updates/things going on... and some questions. Sorry for the long post.

First off @Kevin Henning the new tape method works way better than double sided tape for aluminum, but I wouldn't solely rely on it. We did, and had 1 out of 4 tests come loose. We found cutting a pocket the size of the project in mdf, then using the 2p-10 tape method inside the pocket works perfectly.

Purchased the 2.8w Jtech Laser last week. Working on a custom mount that will be easily detachable from the side of the Openbuilds spindle mount. I figured since there were already screw holes there, I might as well use them for the laser mounting. It arrives this Wednesday and it can't get here soon enough! I'll post pictures etc. once it's up and running.

Upgrades...
I've been checking out some of the upgrades that others are making to the C-Beam XL. Which ones have you found are the best/must haves or wishlist items? I'm most interested in a thinner & stronger build table (extra Z clearance). Something like @tetsuwan did is nice and most likely what I'll do. Is there something better out there? I'm also considering the 20x60 sides upgrade to C-beam like @tetsuwan did as well. Wondering if there are any negative side effects to this. @tetsuwan also looking for your feedback on how it's been performing or what you would do differently.

I want to change the mounting plates on top of the X-Axis to add travel distance. I can't seem to find any pictures where this was done. Any issues found with doing so?

Any recommendations on good cost effective Nema 23 Stepper Drivers. Currently I'm powering them from the MKS Smoothie board directly at 1.9 amps/pc. They work decent, I just feel like having them underpowered isn't a good thing.

@Moag @Mark Carew looking for your input too. You're the best!

Cheers!

 

Yes for sure. The project didn't come loose until the very end profile cut. I like the idea of drilling the holes, if you have a good worksurface to drill into. I don't trust how the screws rip out of MDF. I should have been more clear on the process we found that worked. We take a piece of MDF bigger than the work piece, that is wide enough to go past the ends of the spoil board. That makes it long enough to screw into the oak furring strips I have on the top and bottom. Then I run a pocket toolpath .25mm wider than the piece and so it's almost completely recessed + drill circles out on the corners to allow the piece to fit in the corners. This also makes your piece perfectly square to the machine. Then I use the 2p-10 method inside the pocket.