How do I know what length lead screw to look for? We are not going to find another 10 start I suspect, so will need to look for a lead screw with the most starts possible. Anyone have any other thoughts?

 

hi Sebastien
have you got a 300mm x 300mm bed yet for your Lautr3k ? if so i would like to ask you for help to test print something for me as i can print it on mine but it takes 22 hours 34 mins to print it! but i need to be able print it faster . can you look at it for me Please and see if its possible to do it the print is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213767/#files .. and it is the STL called AMAZED_board_one_piece.stl

 

try http://www.mooreinternational.co.uk/category-32/SPEEDYSTANDT12-25screw.html

 

thank you Sebastien
just had to ask! just in case you had time or could .. yes i was hoping to distribute it but only print to order at the moment it takes 22 hours 34 mins to make one Game with two printers the Lautr3k and my 8" prusa

 

Would a full ramps 1.4 be adequate for this build?
I plan to attempt this build using the openbuilds leadscrews
I am extremely new to printing so advise as to the type of electronics will be needed.
Ty in advance

 

A full ramps 1.4 will be fine. I have a I3v Prussa system from MakerFarm. The build on this site is:
http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/bobs-3d-printer-kit-build.427/

It uses a Ramps 1.4 elecronics setup and works just fine.

Bob

 

Just to get an idea of pricing do you think this kit is fare ?
http://bit.ly/TZ2H6o

Also I plan to use the following extruder
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/v6-3mm-Direct

 

Robert - Yes the kit it a good price for what is in it. Also I have a V5 extruder that I am converting to V6 and have been able to boil abs in it without a problem. The only flaw in the v5 was the attachment of the thermistor to the heater block and that was solved with "Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer" puddy. Once installed never to be removed. I also like the fact that they are using clamping method of attachment on the heater element on the V6 as the v5 used a set screw and it was possible to move the heater element because of that.

Otherwise you are going down the correct track.

Bob

 

Thank you so much for the fast response, I'm making up parts now for the mechanical while I wait for some things to come in for the Stinger.
Since I don't have a printer all the plastic parts will be made of aluminum and parts from openbuilds.
So not a true copy but everything will operate in the same fashion.
I may also go with 20x40 for the x axis

 

Here are the first parts, I'm still waiting on my metal supply to stock back up"sad 3 weeks now"
Good thing I got a bunch of scraps

This is the motor mount and bearing for the Y access

 

All assembled, looks good so far

 

http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/lautr3k.274/page-6#post-5176
I ran out of cast 90s for now.
So I moved on to the bed plate and scheme to connect the nut to it.
Then I'm going to connect it and see just how fast I can get it to run


100mm a min is the speed I'm looking for correct?

 

this is looking cool were did you get that bed plate ? i would love one of them

 

wow Robert Hummel i feel another build for me coming on

 

I designed it in sketchup along with a 1/4 and 3/8 inch spacer block to fill the void in between the bed and lead nut
Here is a pic of how I connected everything, speed tests to come after work.

 

Wow! Ok I was way off on that an I'm sure I won't get that speed, but testing will show what I can
What micro step setting are you using?

 

What voltage are you running the system @?
Sorry for all the dumb questions I'm sure the info is listed :/

Nvm I see the 12dc pc power supply

I have tested it @12dc 1/16 step,2200 mm a min setting.
So if I'm right here, 2200\60 gives me 36.666 mm a sec max before the motor stalls.
My current is only set for 1 amp because I don't have the driver heatsinked, will be heat sinking the ramps 1.4 setup for sure.

 

i have been having a similar problem so im going to trying thz when the come http://www.ebay.com/itm/271419276953 BUT a frend of mine has got them but he has seid (QUOTE) Be carefull, these are used the other way around.... What I mean is the trim pot goes opposite end to the current drivers, you'll also need to alter jumpers under driver and unfortunately you'll need to re do your firmware as the distances will then be all wrong (end QUOTE ).......but i do seem to have it salted at the mo by just messing around with all settings its not perfect yet but works, i hole the new drivers may help ..i hope this helps you in some way

 

I was going to go the same route but was told that the kit I got will drive my motors at the full 1.5 amps with heat sinking so I hope it fixs the issue of stalling

Since the stock is out on 90s I have made up a temp fix so I can continue

Here is the base fully assembled so I can design the Z motor mounting

 

I have decided to go with a 2 part mount using 1/4" plate.
The first is the motor mount with a 30% pocket operation done on it.
The secound will be a simple 1/4" spacer plate

 

this looks cool were can we buy the parts or are they not for sale yet ? would really like to start building one

 

Got to test fit the mounts and

I didn't plan on making up parts but if it turns out as I hope I may just do that and put some kits together

I just really need a printer to put all the final touches on my builds so they can all be complete

I will be releasing the files when the build is complete for and milling peps that are looking to build a printer

I should prob do a build log instead of filling this one lol

 

is it possible to extend the X axis? and what is the limit?

 

And here it is at a stand still, all out of T nuts and hardware is running low.
The side mounts for the Z Axis


All assembled